Primer Useage

[Craigwood]

With the several types of pistol primers
Like Large would be for 45 ACP, 44, 44mag
Small for 38 special, 9mm
Small Magnum for 357 Mag

I seem to use more of the smalls for 38 special and 9mm. And not as many Small Magnum. Because the Small Magnum offers more of a charge because of more powder in a 357 Magnum's case to fire off. My question is, can I use the Small Magnum primer for 9mm and 38 special without any ill effects. I can see a possible hazard with 9's but not with a 38 because of the close relationaship with 357 mag

[TMC]

The primers does not have a hotter charge the difference is the hardness of the primer cup so it can contain the higher pressure of the magnum round. I use small rifle primers and mangun primers in 9mm loads all the time. Some revolvers with lightened hammer springs and striker fired guns with reduced power springs may have trouble setting off these harder primers.

Use them without fear, they will not make your loads and hotter

[Cowboy T]

Depends on whether or not you're loading max charges. If you are, and your load data says non-magnum primers, but you use magnum primers anyway, then you're into risky territory. Guns have been blown up this way.

BTW, yes, there is a difference in "hotness" between regular primers and magnum primers. If you use magnum primers with most "non-magnum" handgun powders (e. g. Bullseye or Titegroup), you should back off your powder charge at least half a grain and work up.

How much powder is in your round doesn't really matter. What does matter is how easy or hard that powder is to get lit up. For example, in all of my Magnum loads (.357M, .44M, and .45 Colt "Magnum"), I use regular pistol primers (small, large, and large, respectively). The reason is the powder that I chose, #2400. Turns out 2400 is pretty darn easy to ignite, so magnum primers are totally unnecessary, even though I'm using very healthy charges of the powder.

However, other powders, notably H-110 and W-296, are harder to ignite. That's where "magnum primers" come in. They are hotter, and that's why you need them for those two powders. If you try using regular primers with either of these two, you will get unreliable ignition, and one guy I know actually got a pill stuck in the barrel from doing that.

I repeat: it does not really matter how much powder is in your case. It matters much, much more what *type* of powder is in your cartridge and how hard or easy it is to ignite.

[Chief-7700]

Cowboy, I could not have said it better.

[Craigwood]

You guys are the best. I am reading quite a bit on reloading and have been quite consistant and saving coin and able to customize loads. This was one area where I have kept my primers seperate when loading particulars.

[opos]

Got a question...I have charts on the burn rates of the various powders but have never seen the burn rate "chart" comparing the powders when using the standard vs magnum primers at higher load levels that might give any indication of where substitution could get into "sticky ground"...I guess like Cowboy said, if you use a fast burning powder best back off the charge a grain or so...I just got a set of .40SW dies on order and I think the small pistol vs small pistol mag primer issue has come up in the .40 from time to time...I'd think with a cartridge like the .40 which is a pretty hot tamale that primer substitution might get a person in some trouble...what think you?...and by the way..the videos Cowboy T has put on the air are informative and appreciated...thanks.

[Craigwood]

Depends on whether or not you're loading max charges. If you are, and your load data says non-magnum primers, but you use magnum primers anyway, then you're into risky territory. Guns have been blown up this way.

BTW, yes, there is a difference in "hotness" between regular primers and magnum primers. If you use magnum primers with most "non-magnum" handgun powders (e. g. Bullseye or Titegroup), you should back off your powder charge at least half a grain and work up.

How much powder is in your round doesn't really matter. What does matter is how easy or hard that powder is to get lit up. For example, in all of my Magnum loads (.357M, .44M, and .45 Colt "Magnum"), I use regular pistol primers (small, large, and large, respectively). The reason is the powder that I chose, #2400. Turns out 2400 is pretty darn easy to ignite, so magnum primers are totally unnecessary, even though I'm using very healthy charges of the powder.

However, other powders, notably H-110 and W-296, are harder to ignite. That's where "magnum primers" come in. They are hotter, and that's why you need them for those two powders. If you try using regular primers with either of these two, you will get unreliable ignition, and one guy I know actually got a pill stuck in the barrel from doing that.

I repeat: it does not really matter how much powder is in your case. It matters much, much more what *type* of powder is in your cartridge and how hard or easy it is to ignite.

Off question for you "T". I had a Lee Progressive 1000 and used it since the late 80's. And I had got it from second hand. What pushed me to the Hornady and getting away from the Lee was the primer delivery. Two weeks before I took delivery of the Hornady I was using the Lee (after a laps of reloading) the primer tray opened up unexpectantly and primers went all over the place. Even when the tray was turned and locked. I even found some primers twisting around the guide runner. The other adverse was the primer punch. The reason I suspect that Lee denounces Federal Primers is there is no positive stop when the ram is pushed up. If you dont when to stop. Federals are a more sensitive and softer anvil primer designed for a lighter firing pin (I believe) I even found CCI primers with dimples in them. The Hornady pushes only so far and stops. But I did give the Lee to a friend of mine and we plan to spend some quality time tuning it up. I loaded many of round on the Lee and surely got my moneys return.

[ireload]

There was a article a while back regarding standard and magnum primers. Article stated that magnum primers can add more pressure in a given cartridge instead of using standard from which it originally calls for. The article estimated 2,000 to 3,000 psi more.

To answer your question, you can use magnum primers instead of standard but back off on the charge. Minimum and medium powder charge would be good to go but maximum would become questionable.

[PoofNoEyebrows]

The primers does not have a hotter charge the difference is the hardness of the primer cup so it can contain the higher pressure of the magnum round. I use small rifle primers and mangun primers in 9mm loads all the time. Some revolvers with lightened hammer springs and striker fired guns with reduced power springs may have trouble setting off these harder primers.

Use them without fear, they will not make your loads and hotter

WRONG - Magnum primers will definitely give a higher start pressure. As to thickness, yes magnum primers have a harder cup, but there are also other primer types that offer this too without the higher ignition.

[Cowboy T]

Off question for you "T". I had a Lee Progressive 1000 and used it since the late 80's. And I had got it from second hand. What pushed me to the Hornady and getting away from the Lee was the primer delivery. Two weeks before I took delivery of the Hornady I was using the Lee (after a laps of reloading) the primer tray opened up unexpectantly and primers went all over the place. Even when the tray was turned and locked. I even found some primers twisting around the guide runner. The other adverse was the primer punch. The reason I suspect that Lee denounces Federal Primers is there is no positive stop when the ram is pushed up. If you dont when to stop. Federals are a more sensitive and softer anvil primer designed for a lighter firing pin (I believe) I even found CCI primers with dimples in them. The Hornady pushes only so far and stops. But I did give the Lee to a friend of mine and we plan to spend some quality time tuning it up. I loaded many of round on the Lee and surely got my moneys return.

Will PM you on this, just to keep the thread on topic. :-)

[bcrich]

The primers does not have a hotter charge the difference is the hardness of the primer cup so it can contain the higher pressure of the magnum round. I use small rifle primers and mangun primers in 9mm loads all the time. Some revolvers with lightened hammer springs and striker fired guns with reduced power springs may have trouble setting off these harder primers.

Use them without fear, they will not make your loads and hotter

You would be correct if you are only referring to wolf small rifle magnum primers vs regular small rifle primers (wolf) the cups are thicker with the magnums and wont cause a pressure increase due to hotter spark. Mainly used for 223, 5.56 loads.