help with picking 223 reloading equipment

[dinnerplate]

i'm getting set to reload my first rounds of .223. i've done 9mm before, but am finding that it's very different. my current equipment is:

- lee four station turret press
- lee .223 three-die set (sizer/decapper, seater, crimp)
- lee auto-disk powder dispenser
- rcbs hand primer

i still need to get a powder through die, and will get the lee .223. but i'm having a hell of a time trying to decide how to set this whole thing up. my stations are set up like this right now:

1) sizer/decapper
2) powder through (once i get it)
3) seater
4) crimp

i tried out a few cases in the sizer, and it doesn't go in so easy. makes sense, since this ain't no 9mm. but i'm wondering if i can just use a neck sizer instead of the full sizer since i'll only shoot this from one rifle.

which brings me to my next question. what do i do about expanding the neck? i thought i wouldn't need it because i thought the powder through die would expand the neck automatically, which is does not. now i'm trying to decide which expander/sizer die to get, and if accuracy will be helped by keeping the two steps separate. but then i'd have five dies on my four turret station. any thoughts?

thanks in advance.

[ocabj]

You should review a reloading manual on the process for rifle. But here's my process for .223:

1. Deprime.
2. Clean.
3. Lube and FL size.
4. Clean
5. Trim/chamfer/debur (with Giraud trimmer in one step)
6. Prime
7. Charge powder (thrown and digitally measured)
8. Seat bullet

All on single stage. No neck expansion step. Only two dies used (sizing and seater).

[Fyathyrio]

You basically have to break it down to two sets of operations on the press. 1st you have to lube, (You are lubing the cases...right?) then size/decap, then trim the brass to the proper length. (You may have to deburr also depending on trim method.) Now toss all the brass in the tumbler to remove the lube. Now you can use your press again to prime, expand, charge with powder, seat, and crimp.

Check out the stickies on top for how to do rifle brass, the steps are the same no matter the equipment and volume.

[sonnyt650]

That's the same or very close to the same setup I've got.
- When sizing you need lube no matter which bottle-necked rifle case, while for .223 (and maybe .308) you might be fighting the primer which is crimped into place for military ammo. Read up on the rifle reloading procedure since case prep is more involved.
- Rifle bullets are at least a couple times longer than their diameter and flare would introduce error in how straight the bullet sits in the neck.
- There's some debate about crimping the bullet in place since the bullet already has an interference fit while seating (see lack-of-flare above). If the bullet is crushing the case rather than seating, your decap pin's expander isn't working correctly.
- Cases that were neck-sized only will typically fail to load on a semi-automatic. If you're loading for a bolt action you might be ok for a couple of reloads.

[dinnerplate]

i've been using hornady one shot lube. maybe i should just ditch that and get the RCBS pad? the spray hasn't been all that great, just quick.

[kmca]

i've been using hornady one shot lube. maybe i should just ditch that and get the RCBS pad? the spray hasn't been all that great, just quick.

I get excellent results using the RCBS spray lube. I called RCBS about a stuck case and the first question the tech asked was if I was using One Shot.

[ocabj]

Imperial Die Wax

[Fyathyrio]

Check out Raymond Millbrae's videos he's linked in his sig. From other's reviews they are pretty good at showing the process and explaining it clearly.

[dinnerplate]

raymond's videos are very comprehensive. much thanks to him for taking so much time.

this is somewhat off topic, but he mentioned that you need to remove the lube from pistol ammo once you're done reloading it. did not know that, and i've just been shooting as is. what's the downside to cutting out that final pistol ammo tumbling step, extra fouling?

[RaymondMillbrae]

Thanks, guys.

Just came across this thread, and took a peek.

Dinnerplate,

the purpose of removing the lube is to ensure the brass seals tightly against the chamber (upon expansion) when fired. You do not want the case to shift in the chamber. Any movement will effect the accuracy of the boolit.

I know some folks will disagree with me. But that's a moot point. Think about it, and come to your own conclusions.

For the OP,

click on the reloading tutorial below my signature. (RELOADING .223 VIDEO).

Enjoy.

In Christ: Raymond

[killshot44]

Imperial Die Wax

This...

[sonnyt650]

You do not want the case to shift in the chamber. Any movement will effect the accuracy of the boolit.

Most importantly, I'd claim instead that the seal prevents powder and gasses from blowing back through the action into the shooter's face. For rifles case separation is an extreme instance of "no seal" where the gas containment portion failed, while for pistols the infamous kaboom is the counterpart.