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  • #16
    RaymondMillbrae
    Veteran Member
    • Jun 2009
    • 2659

    My full-length sizing die is carbide.

    The Dillon trimmer die looks to be made of steel.

    As for the pressure, the brass is already sized before it goes into the trimmer die, so it is un-noticeable. (Look at video #5).

    In Christ: Raymond
    Some of my tutorials:

    RELOADING .223 VIDEO
    HOME MADE RECOIL SPRING TESTER
    SHORTENING THE LOP ON AN FN SLP SHOTGUN
    INSTALLING SIGHTS ONTO A REMMY 870P
    HORNADY 366 AUTO - INTRO OF PRESS & SLUG COMPONENTS (Part 1)
    HORNADY 366 AUTO - PROGRESSIVE RELOADING OF LYMAN SABOT SLUGS (Part 2)

    Comment

    • #17
      problemchild
      Banned
      • Oct 2005
      • 6959

      Originally posted by RaymondMillbrae
      My full-length sizing die is carbide.

      The Dillon trimmer die looks to be made of steel.

      As for the pressure, the brass is already sized before it goes into the trimmer die, so it is un-noticeable. (Look at video #5).

      In Christ: Raymond
      So you are doing what I want to do which is size before it hits the trimmer and have the trimmer/sizer backed out to do no sizing, correct?

      I just noticed you live in Frisco. God help you! I have a long time buddy that moved there and got converted from a conservative to an ultra liberal. Shame.

      Comment

      • #18
        RaymondMillbrae
        Veteran Member
        • Jun 2009
        • 2659

        Correct.

        And FYI, I do not live in San Francisco. I live in millbrae, about a 10 minute drive from San Francisco.

        I was born and raised in the SF area (Daly City), but I hate the big city life, and prefer to live in the suburbs.

        In Christ: Raymond
        Some of my tutorials:

        RELOADING .223 VIDEO
        HOME MADE RECOIL SPRING TESTER
        SHORTENING THE LOP ON AN FN SLP SHOTGUN
        INSTALLING SIGHTS ONTO A REMMY 870P
        HORNADY 366 AUTO - INTRO OF PRESS & SLUG COMPONENTS (Part 1)
        HORNADY 366 AUTO - PROGRESSIVE RELOADING OF LYMAN SABOT SLUGS (Part 2)

        Comment

        • #19
          problemchild
          Banned
          • Oct 2005
          • 6959

          Can I ask another question?

          Do those special tool heads work? Are they worth the extra $$$? What gain do you see? Improvement in accuracy from x to x? How do you control the powder charge? Have you done the funnel mods to make the charge weight more consistent? Are your loads accurate? If so how accurate? Can you load 1 moa rounds on the 650? Whats your recipe?

          Comment

          • #20
            RaymondMillbrae
            Veteran Member
            • Jun 2009
            • 2659

            One question? (One question equals 10 questions).

            Must be some higher form of math I am unaware of. Ha ha ha

            1) "Yes" the toolhead works well.
            2) The biggest gain I see is CONSISTENCY!!
            3) "Yes" for rifle rounds they are well worth the investment.
            4) "Yes" the COL are very consistent (moreso than with the stock parts), and "Yes" my standard deviation has improved due to the more consistent powder charge and COL. (I've kept it down to 20 -25 FPS deviation...which is great)!
            5) I control the powder charge by SUPER FINE-TUNING the drop, and being very consistent on my pulling of the handle.
            6) "Yes," I have installed the powder baffles to all my powder measure tubes, and I have also noticed a very consistent powder flow, even when INTENTIONALLY letting the powder get down to below 1/4 full to see if it works. (It does). But it also causes the powder to flow more smoothly, so I needed to adjust the powder drop a touch lighter.
            7) My rounds are as accurate as the time I place into the reloads. Not only in press time...but in benchtop stability, press mods, handle pull, consistency in adjustments, etc...
            8 & 9) I can shoot sub MOA at 100-yards (which I think is great for AR-style rifles...which are not GENERALLY known for pinpoint accuracy), and within a 4" or 5" inch Shoot-n-See target at 200-yards. (But I may not be the best shot known to mankind).
            10) For my match rounds, I am using LC brass, 55-grain Montana Gold boolits, over 26-grains of H335 powder. This is more that what I will need for under 300-yard shots that us NorCal folks shoot up this way. For plinking and practice rounds, I use mixed range brass, loaded a touch lighter in powder.

            In Christ: Raymond


            MY 200-YARD TARGET.

            Some of my tutorials:

            RELOADING .223 VIDEO
            HOME MADE RECOIL SPRING TESTER
            SHORTENING THE LOP ON AN FN SLP SHOTGUN
            INSTALLING SIGHTS ONTO A REMMY 870P
            HORNADY 366 AUTO - INTRO OF PRESS & SLUG COMPONENTS (Part 1)
            HORNADY 366 AUTO - PROGRESSIVE RELOADING OF LYMAN SABOT SLUGS (Part 2)

            Comment

            • #21
              problemchild
              Banned
              • Oct 2005
              • 6959

              Can you cover the mods you made to the press besides the toolhead. I have always used my 650 for handgun ammo (45,500) so the rifle reloading is new to me.

              Comment

              • #22
                problemchild
                Banned
                • Oct 2005
                • 6959

                Originally posted by problemchild
                Can you cover the mods you made to the press besides the toolhead. I have always used my 650 for handgun ammo (45,500) so the rifle reloading is new to me.
                I ordered the floating toolhead, thrust bearing, toolhead lock kit. What do I need to do to the powder unit?

                Comment

                • #23
                  RaymondMillbrae
                  Veteran Member
                  • Jun 2009
                  • 2659

                  Problemchild,

                  you don't really need anything for the powder throw. (Other than swapping out the Powder Bar Assembly to a LARGE one for .223 rounds - if you are using the Dillon press).

                  Just keep in mind that certain powders flow REALLY, REALLY, smoothly...and are a touch harder to fine tune. (Especially ball powders like the H335 I use). But once you fine tune it to where you want it, you're done.

                  There are GREAT tools out there for fine tuning a powder throw, and Unique-Tek has a great one. (CLICK HERE). But if you are primarily loading for one round, and have a toolhead dedicated to that one specific round, you will not need all the fine tuning equipment. Especially not for semi-auto .223 rounds for multi-gunning.



                  Now if you are loading for bolt-action precision shooting...well...that's a different story.

                  I also want to emphasize that I am not a reloading guru. These are just a few things that I have meditated upon, and have concluded are worthy of using to improve the reloading experience. But I am always willing to reasses things if I see an opening for improvement. (Or see an error in my conclusions).

                  In Christ: Raymond
                  Last edited by RaymondMillbrae; 07-12-2010, 2:04 AM.
                  Some of my tutorials:

                  RELOADING .223 VIDEO
                  HOME MADE RECOIL SPRING TESTER
                  SHORTENING THE LOP ON AN FN SLP SHOTGUN
                  INSTALLING SIGHTS ONTO A REMMY 870P
                  HORNADY 366 AUTO - INTRO OF PRESS & SLUG COMPONENTS (Part 1)
                  HORNADY 366 AUTO - PROGRESSIVE RELOADING OF LYMAN SABOT SLUGS (Part 2)

                  Comment

                  • #24
                    problemchild
                    Banned
                    • Oct 2005
                    • 6959

                    A while ago I found a site that had mods you could make so the powder threw much more consistent charges. I know ball powder flows better than stick powder. Im using Varget so I may have to change powders. I wish I could find that site again. One of the things he did was to polish all internal parts that came in contact with the powder. I will keep looking for the site.

                    Watch this video






                    Originally posted by RaymondMillbrae
                    Problemchild,

                    you don't really need anything for the powder throw. (Other than swapping out the Powder Bar Assembly to a LARGE one for .223 rounds - if you are using the Dillon press).

                    Just keep in mind that certain powders flow REALLY, REALLY, smoothly...and are a touch harder to fine tune. (Especially ball powders like the H335 I use). But once you fine tune it to where you want it, you're done.

                    There are GREAT tools out there for fine tuning a powder throw, and Unique-Tek has a great one. (CLICK HERE). But if you are primarily loading for one round, and have a toolhead dedicated to that one specific round, you will not need all the fine tuning equipment. Especially not for semi-auto .223 rounds for multi-gunning.



                    Now if you are loading for bolt-action precision shooting...well...that's a different story.

                    I also want to emphasize that I am not a reloading guru. These are just a few things that I have meditated upon, and have concluded are worthy of using to improve the reloading experience. But I am always willing to reasses things if I see an opening for improvement. (Or see an error in my conclusions).

                    In Christ: Raymond
                    Last edited by problemchild; 07-13-2010, 12:13 AM.

                    Comment

                    • #25
                      problemchild
                      Banned
                      • Oct 2005
                      • 6959

                      Took me 3 days but I found the powder accuracy thread

                      Comment

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