New to reloading, Please evaluate my plan!

[PonchoTA]

Hi guys,

I got to participate in that awesome Dillon group buy that Matt P hosted ( Matt!), and have a few questions. For info, I'm not looking to make match ammo or high performance shooting, just inexpensive plinking ammo and maybe once in a while tactical shooting courses.

I currently have the dies and such set up IAW the factory directions for the 650, but am thinking about modifying it.

I have a single stage RCBS press also. Want to take the decapping die out of station 1 on the Dillon and put it in the RCBS. Then after decapping, take that brass and tumble/polish it. Then put that into the case sorter on top of the 650, and load like normal, just nothing in station 1. I'll have to keep an eye on that position while cranking to ensure the case doesn't rock out of position, to feed into station 2 properly.
If I've read this correctly, Station 2 is the primer seat and powder throw, Station 3 is the powder check, station 4 is the bullet placement, station 5 is the bullet seat.

Sticking with just .223 for now (planning to add .45ACP and .40S&W later), and plan to try several different load recipes (sticking with starter loads of course for each) and will check powder loads fairly often to begin with, as I see how the loads come together.

Will eventually try other types of bullets and primers, etc. but I think for now, just working on 1 variable at a time (in this case the powders of course) will yield the best results. I'm using the Speer #14 manual, in addition to online sites such as: LoadData, Handloader's Bench, Hodgdon's load data, etc.

Using mainly range recovered brass and so far, I think I will be using:

CCI small rifle primers (400's), when I find some at a good price
Montana Gold bullets, or similar inexpensive. Just 55gr to start with.

For powders, I think I can start with just 1lb of each (unless I can get smaller quantities for experimentation, 100 rds or so at a time). To begin with, I'm going to get:

IMR4895 seems to be well thought of
Hodgdon H335
Hodgdon H322
AA2015
Varget


Any suggestions? Am I on the right track? All help is greatly appreciated!

Many thanks!


Paul


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[joelogic]

Too much to read while a I am poolside.

You bought a progressive, why decap on a single stage.
You can decap on the progress and then trim by hand.

Usually station 4 seats bullet and 5 crimps. No need to powder check on a xl650. Can't double charge rifle and the auto indexing fixes no charging.

Just my $.02 I think powder choice is less important then charge weight. People have been reloading for long enough to know what is the fav powder for rifle/barrel length/twist/bullet weight.
Right now my receipe of choice is h322 22.5gr for 55gr fmj out of a 16" carbine AR. Tight groups and low felt recoil.

[PonchoTA]

Too much to read while a I poolside.

You bought a progressive, why decap on a single stage.
You can decap on the progress and then trim by hand.

Usually station 4 seats bullet and 5 crimps. No need to powder check on a xl650. Can't double charge rifle and the auto indexing fixes no charging.

Just my $.02 I think powder choice is less important then charge weight. People have been reloading for long enough to know what is the fav powder for rifle/barrel length/twist/bullet weight.
Right now my receipe of choice is h322 22.5gr for 55gr fmj out of a 16" carbine AR. Tight groups and low felt recoil.

I suggested that because I don't see the sense in popping out the old primer, leaving a dirty (or otherwise unchecked) primer pocket, and putting in a new primer within seconds of each other.
Don't you have to clean the primer pocket, make sure the flash holes are open, etc. before putting in a new primer?

If I did that on the single stage, then I wouldn't be holding up the rest of the production for this step. Then tumble those brass while working on another set, or onto the next steps for already cleaned brass.

Does this make sense?

.

[CSACANNONEER]

I suggested that because I don't see the sense in popping out the old primer, leaving a dirty (or otherwise unchecked) primer pocket, and putting in a new primer within seconds of each other.
Don't you have to clean the primer pocket, make sure the flash holes are open, etc. before putting in a new primer?

If I did that on the single stage, then I wouldn't be holding up the rest of the production for this step. Then tumble those brass while working on another set, or onto the next steps for already cleaned brass.

Does this make sense?

.

For precision ammo I do. For plinking ammo, it does not make a difference. Many millions of rounds are loaded and shot every year after being loaded without inspecting, cleaning or uniforming primer pockets.

BTW, Congrats on the move. When did you pack up and leave here?

[PonchoTA]

For precision ammo I do. For plinking ammo, it does not make a difference. Many millions of rounds are loaded and shot every year after being loaded without inspecting, cleaning or uniforming primer pockets.

BTW, Congrats on the move. When did you pack up and leave here?

Ohhhhh! Ok, I see all the videos for loading and such, and thought it would be a better idea to do it that way. Maybe I can still do that after a couple/few reload sessions per case, but will not be a huge priority now! Thanks!


Thanks again! I moved out here mid-March, started a new job here in Tucson at the end of March. At least most of it! I had to come back mid-April to get the rest of my stuff. Long drive though, about 9-10 hrs on the road.

First things I did? Removed the bullet button, and pulled my 30-rd mags out of storage!!
Love being in a free state! There's a range right down the street from me too, about 10 min, and is excellent!


Cheers,
Paul

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[huckberry668]

your original plan sounds good and it's a good idea to do sizing bottle neck cases separately to prep & inspect the cases. Since most of your brass comes from the shooting ranges, the quality and condition of the brass need some scrutiny. You'll find some with split mouth, or weakened case head (case head separation danger). There maybe damages if you load these and shoot them.

Also, since you're new to reloading bottle neck cases. You'll need to clean the cases separately if you're using traditional sticky lube. YOu don't need to clean the primer pockets all the time but you still have to measure and trim some of the cases after resizing because cases with necks too long (for your chamber) is extremely dangerous to shoot. The pressure of that round can be catastrophic when the riflings pinch the neck hard enough and the bolt is able to close.

Reloading straight wall cases such as 9mm, 45ACP are less finicky but the quality & condition of the brass still needs to be checked. You can inspect them easily after they're cleaned.

To all new reloaders, it's important to learn all the correct and safe methods of reloading and understand each step. Pick up a reloading book or go on web sites of reputable manufacturers and study up. Reloading is fun and cost effective but if it ain't safe, it ain't worth it.

[Offroader]

I decap all my brass on my XL650 first with the Dillon universal decap die. You really don't want to use your regular sizer die to decap before you clean the old brass. Do you really want to take a chance on scratching the inside of your sizer die with abrasive material the dirty brass picked up. You will also have to run som type of decapping die (either universal or regular sizer) to make sure the primer hole is clean of the tumbler cleaning material or manually check/clean each piece of brass. I also use a powder check on my XL650. You can see at a glance if there is powder by the action of the powder check or audibly hear the alarm if there is a problem.

[killshot44]

You must have clean brass before you can size/decap. Regardless of whether it is blasting ammo or for benchrest........
otherwise you WILL get a case stuck in the die and then you've got a problem.
Recommended (as given to me by very experienced reloaders) steps for .223 blasting ammo
1) Tumble/Clean
1a) Lube cases
2) Size and Decap/Deprime
3) Check length and trim if too long (must also then chamfer and deburr if trimmed)
4) Prime (check your depth. If the primer isn't flush with or below the casehead, you must clean the primer pockets first)
5) Powder Drop
6) Seat Bullet
7) Crimp as needed

Varget and H322 or H355 are good for .223

It is better to use once-fired brass from YOUR rifle. Depending on your chamber, you may not have to work the brass very much.

For precision reloading, a couple more steps are involved. Read Randall's Stickys.

I've started fairly recently myself and find it time well spent.