9mm: Reloading cost per round?

[gotime]

I've figured that I'll be reloading 9mm at about 17 cents a round. If you reload for less, can you let me in on how? I'm not really interested though if you have a "hook-up" unless you can hook me up too . At 17 cents it's just barely cheap enough to do considering I hit the range quite a bit. It's about a 30% savings when I compare it to the cheapest I can get ammo shipped to my door. Thanks for your time guys

[yakmon]

external factors? such as how long it will take you to make X amount of ammo? it's a factor.

[gotime]

It's a factor if I was reloading ammo instead of at my job... The reloading is during down time and isn't even laborious or a chore, so I'm not gonna use that "well I make $30 an hour at my job so spending an hour loading ammo is a waste of $30".. it's a retarded argument. Anybody with something useful to add please?

[XDRoX]

This is how much I'm paying for 9mm:
8lb of powder = $100
5000 primers = $137
1000 115gr Berry's plated bullets = $80
$25 hazmat

That comes out to just under 12cents per round. I am not calculating the cost of brass.

[mif_slim]

ever thought about going the lead bullet route? Tha'll make it lower. I load my 40's at .06-.08 per round.

[CSACANNONEER]

I bought several cases of SPPs at $97/5000. I worked at a range so, my brass was free. I cast my own bullets from lead that I have scrounged for free. Bullet lube costs about $1/500 rounds. Powder cost is a couple cents a round. In the end, I figure that it costs me about 2.5 cents to 4 cents per round to load .25acp, 9mm, .38S&W, .38sp, .357 mag, .45acp, .45LC, .44sp or .44mag. It costs me more to load for my 32-20, .32acp, 7.5 Nagant, etc. because, I don't have molds and lube/sizer dies for them.

If the only reason that you want to reload is to save money and you value your time at the same rate as you get paid, you might want to rethink the whole idea of reloading. Reloading is a hobby in and of itself. It allows you total control over your ammo. This gives you the ability to produce ammo that will be far better than any factory ammo and is taylor made for each gun. Of course, after I load 150 rounds of what I consider to be "match grade" 50BMG ammo, I look at it and think "Wow, if I would have bought that, it would have cost me about $900. I sure could not have afforded to shoot the next match. I'm glad I reload." But, in all reality, it took several years of shooting 50s to get to the break even point when it comes to the money invested in reloading equipment. After 2 matches a year for 5 years and a lot of recreational shooting, I think I'm getting close.

[yakmon]

i'll respond to being called retarded tomarrow, cause i'm drunk tonight.

[Dubels]

You have to buy in bulk. Bullets are usually where the cost goes up. I buy precision delta bullets for $88 delivered per a 1k of 147 grain tc fmj. I think the last time I calculated I was at 12 cents a round which to me is about a 50% saving if I could even find ammo in stock.

[bubbapug1]

plated bullets from berrys, cheap powder, old brass...around 12 cents a round...if you use lead bullets the price can go down, but so does the leading in your barrels...

don't even consider what the press costs because you can sell it on Ebay for what it cost you, ditto for the dies.

There are lots of things reloading can do for you, especially when people are hoarding ammo, or when the whack jobs in Sacramento outlaw bullets, but now guns. You can also load your own 9mm major loads should you decide to buy a race gun...try buying those at Turners or Wal-Mart.

Reloading is as fun as shooting, but you won't save money because you will find even more excuses to go to the range to "test" your new loads

Best bullet deal are Roze distribution for 9mm fmj or Berrys for copper plated. Copper plated will do for anything but major loads.

Best powders are the ons you find on sale!!

Primers...ditto, a primer is a primer, but wolf primers seem to seat harder than CCI or remingtons.

As to a press...buy either a dillon or a dillon.

Dies...RCBS carbide.

[huckberry668]

buy bulk, buy hardcast or plated, buy with group-buys or get your own FFL to get dealer pricing. 30% savings is significant especially when you 'hit the range quite a bit'. Save on buying brass, pick up brass at the range since you go often.

Another thing, the 30% higher factory ammo isn't reloadable usually.

[LGB Loader]

cast your own boolits and it gets even cheaper. Me and Mrs LGB used to burn alot of 9mm but Mrs LGB only liked to shoot FMJ or plated and she fiddle about on the reload bench untill she found a couple of recipes she really liked. I found a really nice load using precision bullets. I like lead. Regardless, assembling your own ammo you can get superior, custom made for your chamber ammo at a much better price. Money isn't the only reason I handload.

LGB

[gotime]

What's Berry's shipping to the Inland Empire? They have that thing where you don't know the shipping cost until after checkout.

[Gio]

Titegroup 8#s $140

CCI SPP 5K $150

Montana Gold 115 FMJ 4K $280

Brass .04 but usually free for me

If you add the brass it is about 14 cents, but since I get brass for free I spend about 10 cents a round. I still do not understand why people use Berry's when MG is 1 cent less if bought in bulk

-Gio

[Gio]

What's Berry's shipping to the Inland Empire? They have that thing where you don't know the shipping cost until after checkout.

I do not know, but Montana Gold only charges $5 to ship anywhere in the CONUS, well it says on their website. I have oredered 3 cases so far from them and have not been charged $5 yet

-Gio

[XDRoX]

What's Berry's shipping to the Inland Empire? They have that thing where you don't know the shipping cost until after checkout.

Anything over $50 is free shipping if you buy directly from them. They are high quality bullets for the price. I just ordered 3000 147gr yesterday. I think the total was under $250 IIRC.