first time reloading, need help: 7.62x54R

[jr916]

So after doing a lot of research, I decided to purchase the Lee Classic Loader for $25 because it fits my needs well. I only want to be able to produce a few hunting rounds for deer, pig, and coyote, and have no interest in reloading in BULK. I want to be able to make hunting ammo with a Barnes bullet, that has less power than standard 7.62x54R so it doesn't blow open a coyote. Now that I've done some research, I have some questions that seem to come up often:

1. Will I be able to seat bullets that are larger than .308" with this kit? My Mosin Nagant is Russian and though I haven't slugged the bore, it'll probably like .310-.311" more. I wanted to use the .303 British Barnes bullets that measure .311 (I believe)... could I seat these using this simple kit? Do I need some extra tools to make this happen ("expander" or something to "chamfer" the case)?

2. Would it be easier to pull a bullet from some Winchester ammo (or even surplus for one-time use), empty the powder, re-weigh the powder to my lower specs and then seat a Barnes bullet in that cartridge? Or would it be better to throw away the Win powder and weigh out some fresh powder I buy (when I get a scale)? This method seems like it'd be the simplest to just get a box or two of hunting rounds for my Mosin (if anyone has a better suggestion, I'm all ears).

3. I also bought this kit to play around and experiment with beginning reloading as a hobby, so I'm interested in making my own loads from "scratch." Would I only need: my Lee Classic Loader + a mallet, Barnes bullets, powder, empty casings, and "large rifle" primers (or does it go by caliber?), or is there more to it? Please help me out if I'm missing something.

What brand 7.62x54R ammo would be best for me to pull the bullet and seat a Barnes in (assuming I can alter the powder charge of course)? Would surplus work or should I go with a higher quality ammo for the brass (keeping in mind these are one-use loads)? Thanks for the help, I can't wait to get started reloading my own 7.62x54R!!!!

[AndrewMendez]

Reloading 7.62x54 is like reloading AK 74 Rounds. There is so much of it laying around in Surplus for 10 cents a shot, that reloading almost seems like a waste of time, at least in my opinion. Have you tried shooting the animals you want to hunt for with the Mosin? I don't think it will tear it up as bad as you might think, but that is a whole lot of bullet! Just my .02

[jr916]

Sorry I forgot to mention, it's not a question of me wanting to reload to save money. I'm doing it to: 1, load NONTOXIC bullets so that I'm hunting legally (surplus rounds, which I can find for .23 cents a shot but not .10, are both lead core AND FMJ, so illegal to hunt with for two reasons), and 2, to do it as a hobby because it seems fun to load your own rounds. I'm not interested in doing this in bulk to save money, otherwise I would've bought a press.

[Peter W Bush]

you want to reload but dont have a press?

[jr916]

Yes, as I said in my first post, I bought the Lee Classic Loader, which is a kit to reload without a conventional press (but is not designed to make lots of loads in a short time). It's supposedly a slower process, which is fine by me b/c I don't care about speed I'm just doing this for fun and to get a few non-toxic hunting loads.

[msand951]

I would get a bullet puller. Buy the surplus ammo and just swap out the bullet for a same grain bullet size. And just use the powder it came with. The bad part of surplus is the corrosive berdan primers but not a big deal if you clean your rifle when you get done shooting.
Or you can buy a box from big 5 of 20rd box. For around 20. Use them and reload those.

[Chris M]

I've used the Lee Classic Loader, and don't care for it at all. I highly recommend that you get at least the Lee Hand Press. No bench needed, and I haven't had any problem loading 30-06 using it (except 180+ grain bullets make the seating step a little trickier due to length limitations) - although my bench-mounted single stage press is preferred. It's only $35 for the kit.

Get a scale, and get some powder. 'Recycling' $0.05 worth of unknown powder per round just isn't worth it.

Sure, you could get a neck expander - and seat the bullet, but do you know if the round will chamber, fire, and extract safely?

Also, if you're going to be expanding the necks on cases with live primers - using a Lee Classic Kit (mallet involved) - expect to accidentally set off a primer or two. I know I did when seating a primer in a .30 M1 Carbine shell.

[LexLuther]

Good question JR, I look forward to seeing the answer to this. I have been recommending a Mosin as a cheap solution for a poor hunter for a while.

[huckberry668]

I've 'reloaded' this caliber 14 or 15 years back when a friend of mine bought a Russian Dragunov. I did pretty much eveything you're thinking and more but I used a set of RCBS full length dies. Back then there were no U.S. factory loads readily available so I had to reload using the surplus ammo and bought new Norma brass.

To answer your questions:
1. Yes, as long as you get the 7.62x54R caliber set it doesn't matter if you use .308" or .310" or .311" bullets. I've tried all three with RCBS dies and they all load and shot fine except the Sierra .311" GameKing shot best groups. I don't think there was MatchKings for .311 back then that I could find. Since you're loading solid copper bullets, make sure you get the proper load data from Barnes. Solid copper bullets load data is little different then copper jacket bullets. It's a good idea to chamfer the case mouth. You'll want to have a chamferring tool if you want to chamfer the case mouth.

2. I did both but would suggest using fresh powder with the new bullets. Before I bought the Norma brass I pulled the steel core bullets out of the surplus ammo and replaced them with Sierra GameKings. I made sure the new and old bullets have the same weight when I kept the original powder charge. And I replaced original powder and used new powder with a heavier bullet and proper load data obtained from Sierra but I always down load it a bit due to the unknown quality of the brass. I wouldn't recommend doing this now though.

3. http://www.cabelas.com/p-0003091210526a.shtml
Buy only the proper caliber set. In your case (one-use loading) this kit is just fine. But know this, the kit only resizes the neck which means you can only reload brass shot out of one particular gun. After 2 or 3 reloads the brass will need to be 'full length sized' so it'd fit in the chamber properly. This kit won't do full length sizing. You'll need a press and a full length sizing die for that. If you're going to load the brass more than a few times, instead of this kit, I suggest buying a Lee Hand Press and a set of Lee Full Length Rifle Die set for 7.62x54R.

4. Why does it have to be one-use loads? Using surplus ammo and replacing the powder is not recommended due to the different pressure you're loading into an unknown quality case. Using Winchester brass has 2 benefits. You know it's quality brass so it's safer and you can reload it more than once now that you have the reloading tools. You can load different bullets for better accuracy and for cheap. It's required to have a good accurate scale. The scoop that comes with the kit just won't do.

[jr916]

I know the kit only resizes the neck, but I am only getting it for my 91/30, and I don't plan on reloading any case more than two or three times (I'll fool around with different bullet combos for fun at the range in addition to making the hunting rounds). I'll be sure to buy some Winchester ammo soon! Should I just shoot it at the range, then reload the used cases? Or for the hunting rounds could I just replace the bullet with a Barnes of equal weight and use the same Win powder? I'd like to buy some good empty brass, but it's way too pricey for me.

Just to double check, http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...0076631217356a
that bullet puller is safe to use to pull bullets from live, fully-loaded rounds?

[LGB Loader]

I took a mosin deer hunting once, for one day. Iron sights. I felt very confortable and confident taking shots out to 200 yards with it. Used Barnes 150's and IMR 4895 underneath it. Nice load, not start, not max, somewhere in between.

Not to brag but I have some firearms that cost more than your average bear, you know what I mean, but most times, I really enjoy shooting with this $75.00 (by far the least amount of $$ i have spent on a firearm) M44 more than anything else. I cast for it too. It really eats anything I feed it with good (within reason) results. Still cannot get over the price tag, though.

I can bang a gong out to 400 yards very consistantly. 200 yards extremely consistant. I wouldn't try bench rest with it of course but it is what it is. A nice caliber, accurate, powerful, and did I mention $75.00 is what I paid for it.

Would it be easier to pull a bullet from some Winchester ammo (or even surplus for one-time use), empty the powder, re-weigh the powder to my lower specs and then seat a Barnes bullet in that cartridge? Or would it be better to throw away the Win powder and weigh out some fresh powder I buy (when I get a scale)? This method seems like it'd be the simplest to just get a box or two of hunting rounds for my Mosin (if anyone has a better suggestion, I'm all ears).

I would suggest getting new components and starting from scratch. New brass (50 pcs is perfect for what you want.), primers, powder, and projectiles. Assemble your ammo from beginning to end, the whole trip. Learn it and do it right. And keep good records.

LGB

[jr916]

I just can't bring myself to buy just brass for nearly the same price as buying Winchester ammo and getting reusable brass + some ammo to shoot first.

Where should I pick up the primers/powder... online, or at a shop? Should I use IMR4895 and if so is that a standard powder that is easy to find?

[mif_slim]

When ur done with ur two-three time reloading, send me the brass.

anyways, just buy the Winchester ammo and shoot it then reload. I was lucky enuff to had picked up 100+ 54r winchester brass a few months back at the range!

Anyways, I've go e thru all the steps you talked about. The little kit will do but once you get more into it you will buy new stuff. But it's a good starter kit. I still have mines and use some of it's tools for other reloading needs.

I say you buy Winchester ammo, shoot jt and reload it. Places to buy components will be best online for bulk and local for what your needs. But first slug your bore so you will know what you can really use for it.

Have Fun And be safe!

[msand951]

Just buy at least two boxes of winchester ammo since your not going to reload alot. But once you start and you figure it out you going to want to upgrade and its worth it. I have http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/cata...g/anivers.html
Its cheaper but so far its does the job. I got my kit for like $65 awhile back. And it comes with everything to start. There are other brands with starter kits as well but it comes up to how much you want to spend.

[jr916]

I actually saw some Winchester brass at the Glass Factory when I shot my steel-cased ammo this weekend... but the Lee Classic Loader kit I got only resizes the neck so I have to reload brass that I fire out of my Mosin. Too bad!

I know I'll probably want to upgrade, but I have to start somewhere to get interested in reloading! And I'm sure as **** not blowing a month's worth of food money (or twice the cost of my rifle) to buy a kit for something I've never even experimented with.

The primers I need are the "large rifle primers," right? And is IMR4895 definitely what I want to use? How can I get some bullets on the cheap (not barnes) for practice reloading rounds for the range? I've heard of people casting their own but this is beyond me. Is it cheapest to just pull surplus bullets?