40S&W reloaders

[sonnyt650]

So after a couple decades of owning rifles I finally purchased my own handgun: Sig P226 in .40 S&W. The Sig Sauer website indicates using reloads will void the warranty, but I bought it used and according to the serial number manufactured ~2003 so AFAIK there's no warranty to worry about. There are though documented case head ruptures with a model of Glock which was converted from a 9mm to a .40 and using weakened cases (reloads) is not advised for that one. Is there a similar warning for a Sig P226 which I'm unable to find? Do any of y'all reload .40 S&W and can say if there's anything I need to watch out for?

[Low-Pressure]

I think the issue with the case head raptures are because of the round/case being shot from a Glock. The belly of the cases tends to have a bulge at the 6 o'clock position.... which is said will weaken the case. If the used cases are checked properly(which is a step in the reloading process), you should be good to go.
To get started reloading , buy yourself a good reloading manual. Lyman's 49th Edition Reloading manual is a good read. Decide how much you want to invest on your set-up and go from there. There are some reloading classes posted here. Check one of those classes out to see/learn how its done.
Congrats on the Sig P226.... start saving your brass casings now

[joelogic]

I havent bought many retail guns but all the manuals usually says void if reloads are used. One of my rifles say not to use steel case ammo. They are just trying to limit their liability to your mistakes.

[FieldsofFire]

I loaded .40S&W for a short while. I think a little more so than loading 9mm and .45ACP since they are lower pressure cartridges, I would be a little more diligent in inspecting the brass to make sure there are no serious deformations/flaws, making sure the powder charge stays constant throughout the run and you're not loading more grains into the cartridge than you should, and make sure you are seating to the correct length without going too far in. And stick to only published load data. I think it's all just the basic things to watch out for with loading any caliber, I just feel it's a bit more important with the .40S&W because it is a higher pressure cartridge. Smaller room for error.

[sonnyt650]

Thanks guys. I'll only be reloading my own brass so I'll just watch more closely for bulges near the head. I'm willing to risk that I should be good to go if there aren't any. Odd that I can buy once-fired .223 or .308 brass and not worry about such things.

Sort of on topic -- at a busy range how do you guys identify which cases are yours?

[Revoman]

Identifying cases is sometimes accomplished via marking with a Sharpie pen on the base of the case. Some use a red 'X', some use different colors or hash marks. Some color the primer pocket only.

[Low-Pressure]

Thanks guys. I'll only be reloading my own brass so I'll just watch more closely for bulges near the head. I'm willing to risk that I should be good to go if there aren't any. Odd that I can buy once-fired .223 or .308 brass and not worry about such things.

Sort of on topic -- at a busy range how do you guys identify which cases are yours?

I pick them all up and sort and check which ones I can use, but my own batch are separated. I tend to load the ranged picked up brass closer to the minimum to be the the safe side.

[hill billy]

I reload 40 for sale. If I am making target loads, I make a middle to lower end recipe to avoid this problem. If I am making a hotter recipe, I use new brass.

[FieldsofFire]

Sort of on topic -- at a busy range how do you guys identify which cases are yours?

I've never had a problem just picking up around the area where my brass would reasonably land. Never had to mark my brass although it is a good idea; the ranges I go to just have never cared, but it could also be that they know I'm not a brass hoarder who takes everyone's brass. Same goes for neighbors, they usually just don't even care if I make it clear I only want to pick up my own. Once they hear that, they will usually just offer me their brass too. Just be polite either way and you'll have no problems.

[jb7706]

The supposed reason for the failed Glocks was due to the partially unsupported chamber in Glock barrels. Sig's do not have this same chamber AFAIK (I don't own any so can't check to be certain.) Often times guys will buy an after market barrel for their Glock to get a chamber that offers more support. You can read more about it at one of the Glock bash fest sites.

[CEDaytonaRydr]

I have reloaded "Glocked" brass over and over again with no issues. I honestly don't know what all the hubbub is about....

[FieldsofFire]

I have reloaded "Glocked" brass over and over again with no issues. I honestly don't know what all the hubbub is about....

Same. I did it for a little while before I got my Lone Wolf barrel. But, I wasn't loading to max charge. I don't doubt that problems could arise from it, but I never experienced any either.

[barrym66]

I've fired about 7K of my own reloads through Glock 22's and 35's with no issues. You do need to check your cases carefully for the "Glock bulge", especially if you pick up brass at the range, but I've had as many as 6X reloads through pick-up factory brass before I've tossed them (just to be safe). I've never had any issues and only had a few cases that failed a chamber check.

I do run my all my .40 brass through a Redding G-RX die in a Lee single stage press, after cleaning, to remove the bulge before reloading in a Dillon (SDB and RL550B). My reloads are light (about 20-21K psi, well under SAAMI specs if the books are right), and I shoot both stock 'unsupported' Glock .40 barrels as well as aftermarket ones.

I mark my brass with a black "X" across the base, I usually recover 80% or so at matches (unless it's a lost brass match) and 99% in practice. Keep notes on your brass so you can keep track...a lot of the "Glock KB's" have been attributed to overcharged or overstressed brass. Shouldn't be a problem in a SIG, though. But you might be picking up some of my 6X brass.