I'm just starting to reload 45 ACP and noticed that the difference between the min. charge and max. charge for most powders is only like 1 to 1 1/2 grains? Do you guys start with the min. and then work up to max. like you would a rifle load? Does those tenths of grain really make that much of a difference?
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Do you work up a pistol load?
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Read your reloading manual.
I usually go right in the middle when I make plinking ammo for pistols. If it shoots well, I just stick with the load.
On rifle loads, definitely work up. -
I take the min load and add 1/2gr. I have not really noticed much accuracy differences between the min and max of powder charges. Min+1/2gr is usually more than enough to cycle the action and give me more than acceptable groups.Last edited by Bug Splat; 02-14-2010, 12:20 AM.Comment
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I always start at or just . .1-.2 below the min and work up...Saving you from yourself one post at a timeComment
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I always start with the minimum charge reommended by the powder manufacturers. The difference between 4.0 and 5.0 grains of say, Bullseye or Titegroup is 25%. When you look at it in this manner I think it puts a different light on the subject.I'm just starting to reload 45 ACP and noticed that the difference between the min. charge and max. charge for most powders is only like 1 to 1 1/2 grains? Do you guys start with the min. and then work up to max. like you would a rifle load? Does those tenths of grain really make that much of a difference?
If you are just starting out, try Bullseye. I'ts a very fine grained powder that meters very consistantly. Also priced very well. My plinking round is a 200 Montana Gold SWC over 4.5 grains of Bullseye. I think I started at 4.2 grains and went up from there. I have used this round at training classes and I can shoot it all day.
The fun in reloading is playing around to find a round that YOU like. Enjoy.AL
CGF Contributor
NRA Golden Eagle
Being north of 70 has definite advantages: I was able to do all my stupid stuff before video cameras, smartphones, utube, and the internet.
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I start at recommended minimum based on several sources, and then go up to max recommended in about 0.4 gr steps. I usually make 20 of each, 10 for the chrono and 10 for the target. It's pretty amazing when you see the accuracy difference between the loads."Everything I ever learned about leadership, I learned from a Chief Petty Officer." - John McCain
"Use your hammer, not your mouth, jackass!" - Mike Ditka
There has never been a shortage of people eager to draw up blueprints for running other people's lives. - Thomas Sowell
Originally posted by James Earl JonesThe world is filled with violence. Because criminals carry guns, we decent law-abiding citizens should also have guns. Otherwise they will win and the decent people will lose.Comment
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It is a good idea to follow reloading guides and start at minimum and work your way up. When starting out with a new bullet or powder I will load 25 at minimum, 25 1/4th of the way up, 25 1/2 and 25 3/4 of maximum. With a chronograph shoot the lighter loaded ammo and check for problems. Overpressure, velocity ect and if everything looks good move on to the heavier loaded ammo. After loading 9mm, 10mm and .45acp I have never had any overpressure signs even at max. Generally their is no reason to load at max. With .45acp and 9mm the most accurate ammo I have found is loaded in the low to mid ranges. 10mm is the only ammo I have found that is most accurate at max which is nice. SammyComment
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I start at the minimum and work up .2gr at a time until I reach .2 over MAX. (NOTE: From .2 gr BELOW MAX until .2 OVER MAX, I go in .1 increments.) I shoot "full magazine" groups from a machine rest at 25 yards. See which load shoots the best groups, consistently without excessive pressure signs. That's my new load. Almost without exception, I have found that best accuracy shows up at a load density of 85%-90% of MAX powder charge.Last edited by Waldog; 02-15-2010, 7:22 PM.Comment
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