Brass tumbler media

[savasyn]

So I'm getting into reloading and just started tumbling my brass a few days ago and I have a few silly newb questions:

Can you mix 50/50 walnut and corn media or do they destroy each other without cleaning the brass?

I've done some in walnut, I've done some in corn, this morning was the first batch I did in one and then the other, but I'm not home to see how they turned out. So far, the brass is clean but not sparkly, do you need to use some sort of polishing agent in the media as mentioned above to get that "new brass" look? Do you need to have that shiny look or is just clean OK?

Lastly, I use a rotating separator like everyone else but the brass is still all covered in dust. What's the easiest way to clean this off(or do I not have to)?

Thanks!

[anto]

I tried some of the plastic media. It does work well. My only concern is it still produces some dust as it breaks down. I am just wondering if it will pose a problem in the long run for people who inhale it.

hmm, probably no different from inhaling media dust then. maybe add in a few dryer sheets to control it.

[hill billy]

I use Turtle Wax rubbing compound from Wal Mart with corn cob. $5 a bottle and it lasts a loooong time. I like my brass to look better than new.

[Revoman]

Yup, the car wax, 'Nu-Finish' seems to work the best for me and it's available at WallyWorld for a good price.

Brass comes out ultra shiny and the cases seem to run through the dies easier, at least straight walls do. There is no dust on them that I can tell.

[Afterburnt]

Is the Nu-Finish the best thing to keep down the dust, or is the mineral oil the "why for"?

[Brasspolisher]

Think Corbin might've been thinking right and typing left when he mentioned mineral oil...

Mineral spirits are a cleaning agent commonly added to tumbler media. From the Wikipedia page:

According to Wesco, a supplier of solvents and cleaning equipment, mineral spirits "are especially effective in removing oils, greases, carbon, and other material from metal."

Mineral oil *might* slick up the cases a little bit, but I think that possible advantage would be more than offset by the possibility that it would make the media sticky or make the powder clump inside the case. A lube pad is a more controlled way of lubing the outside of cases if you're not using carbide dies (or if you lube cases even when you're using carbide dies, as I heard from someone this week).

Afterburnt, the dryer sheets are the dust absorption agent (though the car wax probably also helps a little).

Or am I completely missing a good tip that y'all know about? Corb?

[fcr]

Search Engine link http://www.google.com/cse/home?cx=01...78:pzxbzjzh1zk

[Afterburnt]

Also keeps lead dust to a minimum.

Walnut is a better abrasive than corncob but corncob is a better polisher.

A cheaper solution to NuFinish is ammonium and silica sand mixed with mineral spirits. Go light on the ammonium and sand. Yes I know about ammonium and brass, but guess what's the active ingredients in all brass polishers including NuFinish?

We use walnut, ammonium, and silica sand for the first tumbling. Then it's inspected and loaded. After loaded it's polished in a proprietary solution combined with corncob to make it shine like new money.

I just caught this: Are you polishing loaded ammo? I heard that was not a good idea. Please explain if you dont mind.

[freakshow10mm]

I just caught this: Are you polishing loaded ammo? I heard that was not a good idea. Please explain if you dont mind.

Yes I polish loaded ammunition. So do the big factories. How do you think they get the die marks cleaned up?

[savasyn]

I was wondering the same thing(tumbling loaded ammo). Interesting.

[freakshow10mm]

Powder will not break down and change burn characteristics from tumbling.

Primers will not set off from a cartridge falling 12 inches with a direct hit. It takes more force than that.