I dont know squat about reloading except that Glock brass isnt all that desirable due to the case expansion from the unsupported chamber. When I shoot at the range, I usually just sweep it up and leave it there. If it is usable, I wouldnt mind picking it up and giving it to a CGer though. Should I collect it?
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Glock Brass
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Give it me, so I can test it for you.......
Been reloading Glock brass for years. No issues, as long as your not loading max pressure loads.Luck favors the prepared.
The original battle plan did not survive initial contact with the enemy.
"The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt -
FWIW, I have reloaded thousands of 9mm and .45 ACP (plus some .40 S&W and 10mm Auto) brass that was shot out of a glock factory barrel. I've never had a problem shooting these reloads in any gun.
If you're having problems with "Glocked" brass, the video from udannlin should help.Comment
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How is the crimp die fix different than just using a full length sizing die?Comment
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I had the same question... till I watched the video.
He pulls the "guts" out of the crimp die, then uses a Lee bullet sizing "pusher" (for lack of the correct name) to push brass all the way through the die (resizing past the rim).
A sizing die eventually bottom's out and may not be able to size all the way down the case head.
I've not tried this (or had a need to), but I can see how it would work in concept for a straight walled cartridge.Comment
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Yeah, I'm the same way...FWIW, I have reloaded thousands of 9mm and .45 ACP (plus some .40 S&W and 10mm Auto) brass that was shot out of a glock factory barrel. I've never had a problem shooting these reloads in any gun.
If you're having problems with "Glocked" brass, the video from udannlin should help.
I've reloaded thousands of cases shot by glocks (namely, mine) and I've even lived to tell about it.
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That is my video from yuotube. Match grade chambers are where you run into trouble. "field" or mil spec type chambers on the loose end will usually be okay. But if you shoot matches and do not want a FTF you should be gauging your reload, the block fired stuff will fail the gauge.www.spencersfirearms.com
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Last edited by shadowofnight; 10-16-2009, 2:37 PM.Comment
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There is also the brass roller option too. A bit pricey at around $500 shipped with one caliber wheels installed. Extra caliber wheels are $200 or so I think. Beats throwing out a bunch of brass, but best if you and a few buddies chip in
-GioΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕComment
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the pusher is the metal rod that you get with a Lee Bullet Sizing Kit. it sits in the press where the shell holder would normally go. The bullet lube and size kit is about 30 bucks. For anyone who casts and lube their own lead bullets, you probably already have one.
Lee Precision, the nation's number one manufacturer of reloading equipment for over 50 years presents its full inventory of quality products.
The shell holder doesnt have a rod that can force the case thru the die.
The redding push thru die works too but it costs about the same and you cant use it for factory crimping or sizing bullets. When he talks about 'removing the guts', he means unscrewing the cap and turning the die upside down. it is a 3 second procedure. I use an empty 2 liter bottom turn upsize down and tape it to the end of the die and it does the same thing Redding's $20 accessory does. Collects the brass so they don't fall on the ground.Last edited by roc; 10-16-2009, 3:00 PM.Comment
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