I need someone to push me!

[Noah]

I have been wanting to start reloading for a few years now. I have read up on several systems, hm-hawed around and have never made the jump.
I was hoping that a really good deal on someones used setup with everything I need would come along and be the obvious choice. However, in the current market really good deals don't seem to be found on anything that is gun/ammo related.
Originally I was just going to get a simple RCBS single stage to reload for my 308, as I am starting do do more down range target shooting and love it. I would like to support RCBS as the factory is here in my little hometown.
However, since this crap ammo shortage I can't remember the last time i blew a couple hundred rounds of 45 at the range. So I have started to concider wanting some sort of progressive machine to crank out some range ammo for the pistols. I also plan on a getting some 458socom dies for whatever I buy.

So I am hope some experianced reloaders can just give me a push to help me just go buy something already.

Is there a machine that is good for everything I want to do? or do I need to invest in a setup for rifle and a progressive for the pistol stuff.

Any and all advice or opinions are greatly appriciated.
Thanks,
Noah

[Bongos]

"Is there a machine that is good for everything I want to do? or do I need to invest in a setup for rifle and a progressive for the pistol stuff"

Seriously, in my opinion, you are going to have to get a single stage for Rifle and a progressive for pistol. Specially for 308, were consistency yeilds accuracy. Trickling down to the .1 gr of powder which equals one or two graniels of powder. ANy powder measure, even the best ones will be .3-.5 graniels of difference on each pull. And that difference can mean the difference between .2MOA@100yrds and 2MOA@100 yards, this calculates to 2MOA@1000yards (brain fart, corrected.. too earlyin the morning) and 20MOA@1000yards (ofcourse conditions such as wind,altitude, bullet and brass manucturer comes into play as well as your level of marksmanship). Doing Rifle in a Progressive will be not consistent as a single stage...unless it's for plinking.

I currently use a RCBS Rockchucker possibly going to a Redding T-7 Turret press (I've bought and sold two Dillon 550B in the last 8 months for the same reason as yours plus I do not shoot pistol as much and cannot justify keeping $1000 in gear just for Pistols that I seldom shoot, that said, I own pistols in the 9mm, 40, 45ACP, 38 spl, and 357 SIG)

[SLO_Ryan]

And that difference can mean the difference between .2MOA@100yrds and 2MOA@100 yards, this calculates to 1MOA@1000yards and 20MOA@1000yards

I am confused. I thought MOA was Minute of Angle.

Does the angle change with increased distance? Won't the MOA stay the same for different yardages, yielding differently sized groups - like 1MOA will have 1" groups at 100 yds, and 10" groups at 1,000 yds?

[FLIGHT762]

I am confused. I thought MOA was Minute of Angle.

Does the angle change with increased distance? Won't the MOA stay the same for different yardages, yielding differently sized groups - like 1MOA will have 1" groups at 100 yds, and 10" groups at 1,000 yds?

No,you are not confused. A .2 MOA group at 1000 yards would be a 2" group and a 1 MOA group at 1000 yds. would be a 10" group.

[SLO_Ryan]

No,you are not confused. A .2 MOA group at 1000 yards would be a 2" group and a 1 MOA group at 1000 yds. would be a 10" group.

OK, thanks - thats what I thought.

[LexLuther]

Well, I just got into reloadinga little over 2 years ago. After reading so many stories of how people first bought a single stage and then eventually traded up to a progressive, I decided that I wanted to save some money and not buy both. I went with a Dillon 650. The cautions against going directly to a progressive mainly involved a person paying enough attention to detail to be safe, going slow and learning with a single stage, etc. For my personality, I felt that I could make the leap to progressive, but then again I am an auditor, so attention to detail and following instructions are my thing...

If you dont like the powder measure, there is no reason you couldnt trickle every round for your 308 and still use the same progressive machine. It will probably still be faster as all the other dies would remain in the press and you could continue to use the progressive feature in the other stations. However if you select a powder that meters accurately, this should not be much of a factor, I have no problems with my pistol rounds, or my .223. I am preparing to start loading 30-06 and have no concerns as I will have the option to trickle each round if necessary.

[Blue]

I normally push Dillon, but RCBS is a great company too. The only time I've ever called them was when I some how lost my decapping pin on one of my diesets. SOB just vanished, no idea how. So I call them up to order a replacement, and the lady on the phone refuses to let me pay for them. I told her that it didn't break, but the pin and the collar that holds it on just dissapeared and that it was not their fault at all. She didn't care where they went or how they went, and shipped me a few spares free of charge.

[ronas]

Trickling down to the .1 gr of powder which equals one or two graniels of powder. ANy powder measure, even the best ones will be .3-.5 graniels of difference on each pull.

Are you sure about that. I load with xl650 and using spherical powders I believe I'm getting consistancy of within .1 of a grain. I periodically weight charges on an old RCBS balance beam scale to check.

[Bongos]

I have a Redding Match 3BR powder measure and loading RL15 set at 44 gr, the delta is 43.7 to 44.3, granted this is larger powder than your sperical. Have not tried it with sperical powders like 748, H335 or BL-C2. But the variance is evident in powders like RL15 and IMR4895, I suspect Varget as well. the nice thing about the Redding is it has a lock, so once set it says, that said graniels are so light one or two equals .1gr.

Again, if you are just reloading to plink with a M1A, then .5 gr will be fine for high volume.
Also keep in mind, the larger the cartridge you are reloading, there is more friction from brass and FL dies, make sure your reloading table can handle the torque.

[f4tweet]

I use an RCBS Rock Chucker for rifle. I drop a powder charge then weigh it and trickle to correct weight. I have an RCBS Pro 2000 for pistol. I have had this since '01. Works great

[mike100]

I get .1 gr variation or better on my pistol calibers from my dillon powder measures shucking un-lubed pistol cases thru my 650 with reckless abandon.

the big flake powders take a few cases to settle the powder, but the 5th or 6th drop is consistent. Not recommending progressive reloaders for precision rifle, but the right powder will dispense evenly.

[Sky_DiveR]

I normally push Dillon, but RCBS is a great company too. The only time I've ever called them was when I some how lost my decapping pin on one of my diesets. SOB just vanished, no idea how. So I call them up to order a replacement, and the lady on the phone refuses to let me pay for them. I told her that it didn't break, but the pin and the collar that holds it on just dissapeared and that it was not their fault at all. She didn't care where they went or how they went, and shipped me a few spares free of charge.

I need to find out who you've been talking to. Everytime I call to order a missing part, the ladies I get always tell me to order from Midway cuz they are cheaper than buying from RCBS. Like the primer tray for a Rock Chucker that I misplaced...

They've ONLY replaced broken pieces for me... and even then, they ONLY replace the broken piece not the whole or part of an assembly. ie: priming arm, less spring and primer cup or decapping rod, less the screw or decapping pin. I guess I don't know how to ask properly...

[Noah]

Wow, thanks everyone for the response. I am not sure that I am any closer to being positive as to what I should buy. I think I am leaning twords a progressive if it can sort of be used as a single stage if desired.

I have thought of another question that may influnce my decision. Can those who are reloading 45acp tell me if reloading components have become as hard to find as the loaded ammo. I would choose not to reload 45 if it wasnt so insanely scarce and expensive. I was used to paying ~$0.30 a round for WWB for range time.
What are your currnent day cost per round (not including time spent) and do you have trouble finding the primers or casings, etc?

thanks again everyone.
Noah

[LexLuther]

components are easy to find, you might have to look a little for some, but if you just want to make some practice ammo, it should be easier than finding a good price on loaded ammo. I hope you have been saving your brass.

[Noah]

Yes I have. I should have close to 1000 shells from WWB.