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  • ar15barrels
    I need a LIFE!!
    • Jan 2006
    • 56930

    Processing brass in Bulk

    I reload 223 and 9mm by the bucket.
    I am mostly shooting steel plates and cardboard in action type matches.
    I don't bother to do match prep of the brass for ammo like this because it won't make enough difference.
    I don't deburr flash holes, clean primer pockets, uniform primer pockets, turn case necks or weigh cases/bullets.
    Consider the techniques and methods below to be for general purpose ammo, not match grade ammo.

    All brass needs to get cleaned and sized before you can reload it.
    I am going to describe my rifle brass process because it is much more involved.
    Pistol brass skips the whole operation where the brass gets sized and trimmed as I size the pistol ammo on the same press that loads it.


    The bucket method
    I don't like to individually handle brass.
    I use what I like to call the "bucket method".
    I pickup dirty brass off the ground and it goes in a bucket.
    I sort the brass by cartridge to ensure that only one cartridge type (223/9mm etc...) is in each bucket.
    Pour the bucket in the tumbler to clean it.
    Seperate the brass from the media.
    Pour clean brass in the casefeeder on the sizing/trimming machine.
    My press lubes, decaps, sizes and trims all in one setup.
    Pour the sized/lubed/trimmed brass in the tumbler again to remove lube.
    Seperate the brass from the media.
    Pour fully processed brass in the casefeeder of the loading machine.
    The loading machine clears the flash hole of media, swages the primer pocket, primes, charges, seats and crimps.
    Out comes finished ammo.


    Case Inspection
    Some people may point out that I am not inspecting the cases.
    The inspection for damaged cases happens during the lube/size/trim as you get to feel when you have a hard-to-size case and cull these to the scrap bucket.
    It's better to catch them early than wait until they are in the press being loaded.


    Trimming
    You have to trim rifle cases before you can reload them unless you know that the length of each case is acceptable.
    I load in large quantities so it's actually faster for me to trim the cases than to check the length.
    There are besically two methods to trim cases in large quantities, a Dillon Trimmer or a Giraud Trimmer.

    The Dillon trimmer is basically a full length sizing die with a motorized carbide cutter on top.
    The case gets pushed up into the trim die and a portion of the neck sticks out the top of the die.
    The trim length is set by adjusting the cutter height until it trims the case to the desired length.
    You size and trim in one pass.
    The Dillon trimmer does NOT lube, decap, neck expand or chamfer/deburr the cases though.
    The Dillon trimmer's big advantage comes when you use it on a progressive press.
    You can add other dies on the toolhead to deprime, lube, and neck expand.
    That lets you deprime, size, trim and neck expand all at the same time.

    The Giraud trimmer operates much like an electric pencil sharpener.
    You insert the case into the trimmer, press it inward and rotate 1/2 turn.
    The neck sticks into the trimmer body.
    There is a rotating carbide cutter inside the trimmer body that cuts off the excess length.
    The cutter is setup in such a manner that it also deburrs the outside and chamfers the inside of the neck.
    The Giraud does NOT lube, deprime, size or neck expand the case.
    You would have to do that in regular dies which does add several operations if you are loading on a single stage press.
    This could all be done in a progressive press though and then you would only need to do the actual trimming on the Giraud.

    While the Giraud is nice and fast and I use one for match prepped brass, the dillon is much faster when you include the time to size the cases.
    Also, your fingers won't be sore as you don't have to actually handle each case.

    It's my opinion that a Dillon trimmer setup on a progressive press with a casefeeder is the better method to process brass by the bucket because you can do everything in a single pass through the press without having to handle individual cases.

    If you are not processing brass in bulk, then a Giraud is probably a better setup, especially if you don't use a progressive press.


    Trim length accuracy
    The primary reasons for trimming are two-fold.
    First, you don't want the case to be so long that it could jam into the end of the chamber's neck and elevate pressures.
    This has a relatively low tolerance requirement.
    The case just needs to be short enough to NOT hit the end of the chamber's neck.
    Second, you want the trim length consistent in order to apply a consistent crimp.
    This has a much higher tolerance requirement as a consistent crimp is important to consistent ignition and resultant accuracy.

    There's two ways to look at trim length accuracy.
    One way is to measure the neck length from the headspace datum to the end of the case.
    The other way is to measure the length of the case with a pair of calipers.
    I believe the second method is better because it ensures a more consistent crimp.

    Girard's trim length consistency relies on the shoulder length being consistent in order for trim lengths to be consistent.
    The Dillon trim lengths reference to the case head, regardless of shoulder length consistency, so press frame stretch during sizing is the only variable.

    So, let's assume that cases will be sized, but due to differences in brass hardness or annealing, that the headspace lengths will all be within 0.003" or so throughout a run of cases.
    This is about what I have found when measuring a bunch of cases of all different headstamps run through the same sizing setup.

    If you trim these cases referenced from the shoulder and make an assumption that the case trimmer will trim to 0.001" repeatedly, you SHOULD find that the OAL is all within 0.002" to 0.004" when measured to the case head.

    Now, look at the design of a reloading press and you will note that the datum point is the case head.
    When you are shoving the case into the sizing die, the case head is pushed against.
    When you are shoving the case into the seating die, the case head is pushed against.
    When you are shoving the case into the crimping die, the case head is pushed against.
    The distance from the feature of the die that causes the crimp is only held consistent to the press ram (shellholder/case head), NOT to the case's shoulder.
    So, in order for crimps to be consistent, you need the OVERALL CASE LENGTH to be consistent, NOT the neck length from the shoulder.

    Now look at a trimming solution like the Dillon that I use.
    The trim lengths will generally be between 0.001" to 0.002" throughout the whole run of brass.
    The shoulder's length is NOT a factor.
    With the more consistent trim length, you will get more consistent crimps.

    Of course, if you are not crimping, it will NOT matter what datum is used to determine trim length.
    You are only working in the low tolerance requirements of just being sure that your cases are not too long.

    In the end, either trimming method is probably fine.
    Match grade ammo using match grade bullets are usually not crimped.
    Last edited by ar15barrels; 04-12-2010, 8:52 AM.
    Randall Rausch

    AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
    Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
    Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
    Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
    Most work performed while-you-wait.
  • #2
    ar15barrels
    I need a LIFE!!
    • Jan 2006
    • 56930

    About chamfering and deburring...
    The Giraud does chamfer and deburr the cases as part of trimming.
    This is the big advantage it has over the Dillon.
    Here is a case trimmed, chamferred and deburred with the Giraud's cutter blade:



    I find that the Dillon trimmer cuts such a nice square edge that additional deburring is not really necessary.
    Just tumble the brass after lube/size/trim and the natural action of tumbling knocks off any burrs that may have been left hanging on the edge.
    One little trick I use is to double-bump the case in the Dillon trimmer.
    Bring the ram to full stroke, back the handle off about 1" which just pulls the case down maybe 1/16", enough to fold the outside burr straight up if there is one.
    Then run the ram all the way up again.
    This second bump does two things, first it makes sure the shoulder is sized correctly and second, it trims off any burr that may have been raised up, leaving a perfectly square outside edge to the case mouth.
    Here is one off my Dillon trimmer after tumbling:



    Before you load the brass, it needs to be neck expanded.
    Any burr that may have been left inside the case mouth gets knocked off by the expander button.
    So, by the time you load the brass, the case mouths are completely squared off.
    I don't think that a chamfered case makes the ammo any better.
    The main reason to chamfer cases is to get rid of any burrs created during trimming.

    On match 223 ammo, I use a Lyman VLD reamer in a small makita drill to break the inside edge some more to make seating match bullets nicer in a hand die.


    Sizing
    No matter which trimmer you choose, you still need to lube, decap and size the cases.
    I run an RCBS lube die to decap and lube the cases.
    I had to modify it to have a larger lube capacity otherwise you have to stop every 100 rounds and add lube to it.



    I am using two other dies to support the shellplate platform from flexing.
    First, the modified lube die in station 1 and last the powder die in station 5.
    The Dillon trimmer is in station 3, across from stations 1 and 5.
    These two dies are set hard against the shellplate along with the trim die.
    I may have shortened the trim die a bit to get it to size the right amount without needing to stretch the press frame.

    When you feel a single stage press "pop" over center, that's the press flexing.
    The 650 does not pass over center, it stops at center.

    If you are sharp, you would catch that I am not neck expanding in that setup.
    Since I load on a separate press, I have the first station available to neck expand and remove any media from the flash hole.
    The media simply falls into the spent primer cup.
    I use a 22-250 die pulled up off the press 3/8" and let the decapper hang down 3/8" to expand the case necks to neck expand and decap.
    The rest of the loading process goes like normal for a Dillon 1050.

    If you are not processing brass in a progressive pres, I recommend Dillon's spray lube.
    Get a two small cardboard boxes such as a men's wallet comes in.
    Drop a dozen cases in the box and give it a squirt.
    Shake the box to spread the lube around.
    Then set it aside to dry.
    When you have two boxes going like this, one box is always drying while you are sizing the cases in the other box.
    When you run out of cases in one box, add more, then add lube and shake, then rotate boxes again to use the cases that are lubed and dryed.


    Loading
    I load on a Dillon 1050.
    It has 8 stations.
    station 1 is where the case gets inserted.
    station 2 has a 22-250 neck sizing die set high in the press
    this knocks out media from 2nd tumbling and neck expands DOWNWARDS like a lyman M die.
    station 3 swages primer pockets.
    station 4 primes.
    station 5 charges powder.
    station 6 checks powder charge.
    station 7 seats the bullet.
    station 8 crimps the bullet and ejects the loaded round into the loaded ammo bin.


    Closing comments and random thoughts
    Lube/Decap/Size/Trim goes at about 500 rounds per hour on the 650.
    Decap/Neck Expand/Swage/Prime/Charge/Seat/Crimp goes at about 800 rounds per hour on the 1050.

    I run my dillon trimmer for a couple hours at a time.
    I'm too tired after that.
    It gets hot, but in my application, this is a good thing.
    The heat warms up the toolhead, which then makes the lube flow through the RCBS lube die easier.

    I have a vacum cleaner pulling chips off the Dillon trimmer.
    With the vacum cleaner and the trimmer motor, it's quite load so I wear earmuffs.

    The Girard trimmer beats a Dillon trimmer for through-put if you don't mount the Dillon trimmer in a progressive press with an automatic casefeed and lube die system.
    The way I have it setup, the press is doing more work than just trimming and it's doing it very fast.

    Don't size and trim on the 1050.
    It's too hard to clean out the stray trimmings.
    The 650 is better in this respect because the primer system is very easy to remove/clean.
    The 1050 is probably not as strong for sizing rifle cases as the 650 due to the diameter of the shellplate.
    I size and trim on a 650 for these reasons.
    I only use the 1050 to swage, prime, charge, seat and crimp.
    Last edited by ar15barrels; 08-10-2009, 11:51 PM.
    Randall Rausch

    AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
    Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
    Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
    Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
    Most work performed while-you-wait.

    Comment

    • #3
      ar15barrels
      I need a LIFE!!
      • Jan 2006
      • 56930

      All done.
      Please discuss.
      Last edited by ar15barrels; 08-10-2009, 8:51 PM.
      Randall Rausch

      AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
      Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
      Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
      Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
      Most work performed while-you-wait.

      Comment

      • #4
        ar15barrels
        I need a LIFE!!
        • Jan 2006
        • 56930

        Saving this for later.
        Randall Rausch

        AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
        Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
        Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
        Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
        Most work performed while-you-wait.

        Comment

        • #5
          joelogic
          Calguns Addict
          • May 2008
          • 6592

          Randall I am sure many people will appreciate this. Not much to discuss but I will add a little.

          My box method is throw three double hand fulls of brass into a large cardboard box, spray 10 pumps of dillon case lube, shake vigorously, let air, and then pour into casefeeder.

          For those of us only using a XL650, Here is what I do.
          1. Tumble
          2. Box method lube, let air, and then pour 1 double handful at a time into casefeeder.
          3. Deprime with dillon's universal decapper. Its more expensive then other universal decappers but the decapping pin has a curve on it making it easier to decap .223 cases. Station 1
          4. Size/Trim Station 3
          5. Neck expand.
          6. Tumble lube off.
          7. Swag with dillon super swager. Much easy than using a rock chucker and swaging kit.
          8. Tumble polish. Processing Complete. Ready to load.
          Micro/Mini Reflex Red Dot Sight Mount for the M1, M1a/M14 platform

          Comment

          • #6
            ar15barrels
            I need a LIFE!!
            • Jan 2006
            • 56930

            Originally posted by joelogic
            My box method is throw three double hand fulls of brass into a large cardboard box, spray 10 pumps of dillon case lube, shake vigorously, let air, and then pour into casefeeder.
            I call that running your casefeeder "wet" because of the lube that ends up on it and through the whole casefeed system all the way to the shellplate.
            I prefer to run my casefeed system dry.
            That's why I lube in station 1.
            The rest of the casefeed system stays clean.
            Randall Rausch

            AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
            Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
            Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
            Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
            Most work performed while-you-wait.

            Comment

            • #7
              ZakAttackMan
              Senior Member
              • Mar 2009
              • 519

              Does the use of a Lube Die prevent getting neck scratches in the brass from the trim die; over the use of spray lube?

              I have never had a problem with my dies until I tried some RCBS Spray Lube, and I will never use it again, it ruined my dies and brass.

              Am I better of running a 22-250 die "set the way described" in station 5 or a 223 Lyman M Die with the decaping stem removed. (I would also leave the decaping stem in the lube die)

              Thank you guys "ar15barrels" and "joelogic" for helping me out with my soon to be setup; I have over 20K pieces of .223 that need processing and I'm in the process of purchasing a Dillon 650 and striving to build a system similar to the both of yours.

              Comment

              • #8
                ar15barrels
                I need a LIFE!!
                • Jan 2006
                • 56930

                Originally posted by ZakAttackMan
                Does the use of a Lube Die prevent getting neck scratches in the brass from the trim die; over the use of spray lube?

                I have never had a problem with my dies until I tried some RCBS Spray Lube, and I will never use it again, it ruined my dies and brass.

                Am I better of running a 22-250 die "set the way described" in station 5 or a 223 Lyman M Die with the decaping stem removed. (I would also leave the decaping stem in the lube die)
                I have never used RCBS spray lube so I don't know how it behaves.
                I use the RCBS liquid lube that they supply with the lube die or with the lube pad.
                It's a very heavy lube.
                The lube die only deposits it on the case body, not the neck or shoulder.
                It ends up on the neck and shoulder though as it enters the trim die.
                I know this because I adjust my lube flow rate to eliminate the hydraulic dents you get from having too much lube.

                It's better to neck expand on the down-stroke (die entering the case mouth) than on the up-stroke (die leaving the case mouth).

                Lyman M dies don't have decapping stems.

                If you are using my process, you need something to remove media on the loading press.
                You can use an M die on the size/trim shellplate, but put a decap die in station 1 when you are ready to load.
                Randall Rausch

                AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
                Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
                Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
                Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
                Most work performed while-you-wait.

                Comment

                • #9
                  freonr22
                  I need a LIFE!!
                  • Dec 2008
                  • 12945

                  very impressive. Im not here to stroke you, but to admire an artisan. cool for sure.
                  sigpic
                  Originally posted by dantodd
                  We will win. We are right. We will never stop fighting.
                  Originally posted by bwiese
                  They don't believe it's possible, but then Alison didn't believe there'd be 350K - 400K OLLs in CA either.
                  Originally posted by louisianagirl
                  Our fate is ours alone to decide as long as we remain armed heavily enough to dictate it.

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    joelogic
                    Calguns Addict
                    • May 2008
                    • 6592

                    Randall could you please explain a little more on how you modified the lube die. The top of your die doesnt look like the die you can buy. http://www.midwesthuntersoutlet.com/item.aspx?pid=29560
                    Is the metal block custom made to act as a reservoir?
                    Micro/Mini Reflex Red Dot Sight Mount for the M1, M1a/M14 platform

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      ar15barrels
                      I need a LIFE!!
                      • Jan 2006
                      • 56930

                      Originally posted by joelogic
                      Randall could you please explain a little more on how you modified the lube die. The top of your die doesnt look like the die you can buy. http://www.midwesthuntersoutlet.com/item.aspx?pid=29560
                      Is the metal block custom made to act as a reservoir?
                      I OD ground the die to remove the knurling and create a journal that I can seal against.
                      The block is actually black delrin.
                      It clamps around the die body, allowing the flow rate adjustment screw to meter lube from the piece of plastic tubing down into the lube die body through the inlet on the side of the die.
                      I also re-profile the aluminum insert to increase flow rate.
                      I also enlarge and add more lube holes in the aluminum insert.
                      Randall Rausch

                      AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
                      Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
                      Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
                      Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
                      Most work performed while-you-wait.

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        Gnzrme
                        Senior Member
                        • Oct 2007
                        • 908

                        wow...I can't even figure out how to post pictures or get a case out of a die, let alone follow along with Randall's post....Looks like a nice setup, sounds fast...

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          joelogic
                          Calguns Addict
                          • May 2008
                          • 6592

                          The coolest thing I have made was a toolhead rack. Some angle iron welded to some flat stock. Nice reloading work around, Randall.
                          Every 100 rounds, how long does it take to add lube? Is it difficult? Maybe I will stick with the wet method.
                          Micro/Mini Reflex Red Dot Sight Mount for the M1, M1a/M14 platform

                          Comment

                          • #14
                            ar15barrels
                            I need a LIFE!!
                            • Jan 2006
                            • 56930

                            Originally posted by joelogic
                            Every 100 rounds, how long does it take to add lube?
                            30-45 seconds.
                            It's not difficult, it's just disrupting because you can feel the lube going away for the last 10-20 rounds and you think you might have the next case stick in the trimmer.
                            With the extended lube reservoir, you don't have to worry about anything lube related.
                            Randall Rausch

                            AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
                            Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
                            Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
                            Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
                            Most work performed while-you-wait.

                            Comment

                            • #15
                              Hans Gruber
                              Senior Member
                              • Jun 2005
                              • 1901

                              My only question is...

                              ... do you rent out your setup? What's your hourly rate?

                              I can see the sign now: "Randalls Reloading Recreation Dreamland"

                              Just think of it!
                              Team Echo-Sigma!
                              http://echo-sigma.com
                              sigpic

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