Rollsizer???

[mikeinla]

I shoot IDPA and USPSA regularly and trying to justify buy a rollsizer

I am reloading 9mm on a Dillon 650.
Looking at the Rollsizer Compact DC.
Thoughts or experiences on using a rollsizer??
If anyone is selling one please send me a PM

[sigstroker]

There are old threads, do a search.

[Mayor McRifle]

Just buy a Mighty Armory sizing die and a Mighty Armory crimping die, and you won’t need a roll sizer. In fact, you may never have a round fail to case gauge again.

[hambam105]

Do tell about this Mighty Armory stuff. Never heard of it. Like to hear from someone who has experience using it.

OP,
some of the best competitors / reloaders, always have a case of quality factory new ammo close at hand. Don't be
afraid to do same. Attend matches for awhile. There you will find plenty of competitors with reloading experience.

If you want to assemble quality reloads then you need quality components.

[mofo1111]

What are your needs? Are you solving YOUR problem?

I was also thinking of buying a rollsizer. I just can't justify the price in my instance(your situation may differ). What problem are you trying to correct using a rollsizer? I know the machine will produce better sized brass, but I don't think it will make a difference in accuracy. These machines do address reliability issues related to die sized brass.

I use Dillon dies and I have not had a die related issue. I did have an issue at one point where the die somehow loosened and backed out and the brass was not sized all the way. Only a handful on rounds were affected enough to need resizing. There are those occasional bad brass cases that may peek through every now and then. You can always use a Lee Bulge Buster with Makarov die to fix those pesky cases.

If you reload in high volumes, then I can see the justification in a rollsizer.

For a progressive press, try the following below.

If you are currently having sizing issues with your dies, try this. Set up all your dies as you normally would. Start with sizing die, then work around to your crimping die. After all dies are set up, start the loading process, when all stations are filled with a case(bullets in seating and crimping station), give lever a full pull so that all the station have a case fully seated in die. Then loosen the locknut on sizing die and turn lock ring a couple times to give space from toolhead. Lower ram. Remove brass in station 1 (leave station 1 empty)and give another full pull on lever, see if station 1(sizing die) will turn a little further to correct position per loading machine manual. Lower ram. Sometimes when all stations are full, your die may not be fully sizing in the first station anymore. The difference will be minimal but we always talk in thousandths of inches. This MAY be all you need fix any sizing issues(minus the stray crappy brass when using mixed headstamps).

Station 2 will be empty, you can put an already sized and deprimed case in station 2 at this point. After final adjustments, raise ram again but MAKE SURE that ALL stations are full just like normal loading operations. Loosen all remaining die lock rings. Keep ram fully raised. Then retighten ALL lock rings. This is called squaring up your dies/toolhead. Squaring up the dies/toolhead should align your dies to the ram and disk. Now you should be ready to rock and roll. Hope this helps.

[mikeinla]

No problems with my reloading. I shoot IDPA and USPSA regulatory and never have had issues. Because of the Hollywood "strike" I have been out of work and spending to much time on the computer looking at crap to buy which I probably do not need. I can can find a used one or someone having a sale on one I will probably buy it.

I was also thinking of buying a rollsizer. I just can't justify the price in my instance(your situation may differ). What problem are you trying to correct using a rollsizer? I know the machine will produce better sized brass, but I don't think it will make a difference in accuracy. These machines do address reliability issues related to die sized brass.

I use Dillon dies and I have not had a die related issue. I did have an issue at one point where the die somehow loosened and backed out and the brass was not sized all the way. Only a handful on rounds were affected enough to need resizing. There are those occasional bad brass cases that may peek through every now and then. You can always use a Lee Bulge Buster with Makarov die to fix those pesky cases.

If you reload in high volumes, then I can see the justification in a rollsizer.

For a progressive press, try the following below.

If you are currently having sizing issues with your dies, try this. Set up all your dies as you normally would. Start with sizing die, then work around to your crimping die. After all dies are set up, start the loading process, when all stations are filled with a case(bullets in seating and crimping station), give lever a full pull so that all the station have a case fully seated in die. Then loosen the locknut on sizing die and turn lock ring a couple times to give space from toolhead. Lower ram. Remove brass in station 1 (leave station 1 empty)and give another full pull on lever, see if station 1(sizing die) will turn a little further to correct position per loading machine manual. Lower ram. Sometimes when all stations are full, your die may not be fully sizing in the first station anymore. The difference will be minimal but we always talk in thousandths of inches. This MAY be all you need fix any sizing issues(minus the stray crappy brass when using mixed headstamps).

Station 2 will be empty, you can put an already sized and deprimed case in station 2 at this point. After final adjustments, raise ram again but MAKE SURE that ALL stations are full just like normal loading operations. Loosen all remaining die lock rings. Keep ram fully raised. Then retighten ALL lock rings. This is called squaring up your dies/toolhead. Squaring up the dies/toolhead should align your dies to the ram and disk. Now you should be ready to rock and roll. Hope this helps.

[mikeyr]

I only own a rollsizer because my son-in-law's HK must have a tight chamber, he would shoot my reloads and sometimes get a misfeed, a plunk test would fail but never failed in my HK, Sig or Beretta. And the round would pass my check gauge. Since all I shoot is range brass, I bought the rollsizer and it fixed all his issues with his HK. I notice no difference in my guns.

I did try the LEE Bulge buster with LEE 9MM MAKAROV die first and that fixed his problems also, but that was too slow and the rollsizer is much quicker, so I got that also.

[3fcattle]

Once you roll size you?ll never look back. It makes a difference. If you need the difference. If you don?t want it or need it to make the difference in your reloading then move on. It?s not that deep.
I decap, roll size and run them on a revo.

[baranski]

Do tell about this Mighty Armory stuff. Never heard of it. Like to hear from someone who has experience using it.

OP,
some of the best competitors / reloaders, always have a case of quality factory new ammo close at hand. Don't be
afraid to do same. Attend matches for awhile. There you will find plenty of competitors with reloading experience.

If you want to assemble quality reloads then you need quality components.

I'm at least 20k rounds into MA dies (9mm and 10mm)


The highs;

never again load a .380 mixed in with your 9mm, this sizing difference will have you catch every one.

perfectly sized brass EVEY time, zero exceptions.

A decapping pin that's nearly indestructible.

support from Wayne (the owner of MA) like no other



The lows;

really MUST lube the brass or the dies and sized brass will have issues. For my process this is no big deal and lubing the brass really does help things move smoother.


Since this is spec sizing, I did have some issued with some 9mm brass and using a boat tail .355 Hornady projectile with having enough tension, I probably could have put a tighter crimp, but elected to just run the Dillon size die and finished off that batch of projectiles.