I have a F1 that except for a .22? Hole from along time ago it works only if your on top the center of the sensors ( pellet rifle) otherwise no read or back amd forth between err 1 err2. Which is good since it does actually reg. Now in my garage I got LED overhead and a fluorescent or two. It has its screens intact so how could I light it so i can shoot anywhere inside the screens and get a good reading?
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F1 chrony indoors, won't read except for right ontop of sensors
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First, try it outdoors. Next try lighting the garage temporarily with an old fashion incandescent filament lightbulb as close to overhead of the Chrony as possible. Be sure to shoot about 1 foot above the sensors.
The sensors look for a momentary dip in the light level to start/stop the timer which calculates speed. Outdoors in a setting sun can give bad readings, so can any flashing strobe lights (like at some shooting ranges), or the sun hitting one of the sensors directly. So a direct light source into one or both sensors is bad, so are strobing LED's and fluorescent lights.Comment
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At the airsoft store they used to have a light coming down over the sensors too with the light diffuser. It's a camera that senses the difference in dark and light so the better you can get the image the better.
From what I've read and experienced, the flash from the muzzle could make things worse. They said to make sure that muzzle is 10ft away. But yes, making sure the projectile is somewhat centered and over the sensor will get you best results.Comment
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Problem could be the distributed lighting system in your garage. If the light is coming from a large area, you'll get less of a shadow from the projectile. Try lighting the screens directly (incandescent is ideal if you still have lightbulbs around), with minimal lighting elsewhere.
If you have time and money, you could play around with LED lighting strips on the screens. There are some new high density strips (Cob lighting strips, I think they're called) that should work pretty well.Comment
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Problem could be the distributed lighting system in your garage. If the light is coming from a large area, you'll get less of a shadow from the projectile. Try lighting the screens directly (incandescent is ideal if you still have lightbulbs around), with minimal lighting elsewhere.
If you have time and money, you could play around with LED lighting strips on the screens. There are some new high density strips (Cob lighting strips, I think they're called) that should work pretty well.Comment
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I have a F1 that except for a .22? Hole from along time ago it works only if your on top the center of the sensors ( pellet rifle) otherwise no read or back amd forth between err 1 err2. Which is good since it does actually reg. Now in my garage I got LED overhead and a fluorescent or two. It has its screens intact so how could I light it so i can shoot anywhere inside the screens and get a good reading?
Or you can make your own
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Let's pray for Obama Psalm 109:8
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LED should work fine. As I said above, fluorescents "flicker" at a high frequency. Most people don't notice, but some get terrible headaches. As quick as even a pellet passes the sensors, a bit of flicker could cause issues.
I know lightboxes are a thing.
Kinda fancy, but gets the idea across and you could pull it off with some cardboard boxes:
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No Mas Hamas
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