Newbie shotshell reloader

[swiftone]

Not looking for load data. Just advice.

I am gathering up components to start reloading shotshells. I have 30 plus years reloading metallic cartridges - both rifle/pistol using progressives and single stage machines with zero experience with shotshells

Looking to duplicate the shells we currently use for Sporting Clays -

12ga, 1200 FPS, 1 1/8 oz 7.5's

Currently have on hand: Texan Model M progressive press with about 30 shot/powder bushings, 1800 once shot Remington STS hulls and 150 pounds of 7.5 shot...

My questions:

I understand stack height, but what wads should I be looking at (with my hulls) and what powders to attain proper case filling to get a flat crimp? Do I need to use Remington wads or are Claybusters sufficient? Primers? Stick with Winchester 209? Or?

Lastly what manual is considered the "bible" of shotshell reloading? (should had been my first question)

Other advice?

Not in a big hurry - still have about 4K factory rounds to burn before things get critical.

Thanks!

[JagerDog]

Manual: Lyman #5 is oft considered the "Bible". It'll provide all the theory. It is however quite dated, referencing hulls and powder that are obsolete. So other sources (Hodgdon, Alliant, etc.) for most data.

STS are great hulls. I use all Claybuster AA clone wads and a variety of 209 size primers. Some of the "medium" primers are largely considered substitutable in 10kpsi or less loads, however most Euro primers are a teeny bit larger and can stretch primer pockets. There are stouter primers such as Fed 209A, CCI209M and Rio. Don't wanna sub those.

Many powders will stack well. However Win ball powders are very dense and can require a wad substitution (like a 1 oz wd for 1-1/8 oz payload). I'd offer a proven recipe, but my 1-1/8 oz are loaded with an "obsolete" powder of which I have a stock. I'm mostly loading 7/8 oz and 1 oz for targets and use Titewad. 1-1/8 is a bit of a stretch for Titewad. It works, but at reduced velocity. Something like Unique, International, Red or Green Dot will give better performance.

Shotgunworld reloading forum is a valuable resource.

[Dooder]

The companies like Claybuster have their own substitute wads and they have their own data available to download.

I only load Remington hulls, they're fantastic and the great thing is that STS, Gun Club, American or whatever their lines are cross compatible.

Which brand of wad is one thing, but which specific wad is another. Since I used to shoot STS factory I went with the figure 8 and tgt12. I think I have a few bags left. If you need some and you're in the SGV area let me know. Totally non scientific observation tells me that my component combination and barrels happen to poof more clays with Windjammers. Just got to play around with the components to find what works.

I deeply piled fast powders like Clays and Competition because thats my primary pistol powder too. So I load 12ga, 9mm, 40, 45acp, 38spl, 45Colt, 44spl and more with the same powder.

A manual may help but you'll find more pertinent data from manufacturers. Wad companies have great data. The powder companies have a lot of data as well.

Primers do matter. Unlike metallic, sensitivity isn't an issue but size and brisance is. European 209 is not the same size as an American 209. That goes for both primer pockets and primers. So if you have access to Winchester, Federal, or whatever American brand, then stick with that for your STS hulls.

[ar15barrels]

The lyman shotshell manual is the bible.
The loads published will stack to the correct height for the wads and hulls.
That's exactly WHY you follow the published loads.

You can also look at https://www.hodgdonreloading.com/reloading-data-center for loads before you get your lyman manual.
The value in the lyman manual will be the pages BEFORE all the load data.

The STS hulls are great hulls and you should have no problem reloading them.
Just follow the manual for suggested loads.
As you spend time on a trap field, other trap shooters who already reload will likely give good advice on powder and wad choices, but take that advice and then go find a published load with the specific components before you just blindly follow the guy's whole recipe.

It's most likely that he will be suggesting a load that happens to fall right into the published loads though.

Not looking for load data. Just advice.

I am gathering up components to start reloading shotshells. I have 30 plus years reloading metallic cartridges - both rifle/pistol using progressives and single stage machines with zero experience with shotshells

Looking to duplicate the shells we currently use for Sporting Clays -

12ga, 1200 FPS, 1 1/8 oz 7.5's

Currently have on hand: Texan Model M progressive press with about 30 shot/powder bushings, 1800 once shot Remington STS hulls and 150 pounds of 7.5 shot...

My questions:

I understand stack height, but what wads should I be looking at (with my hulls) and what powders to attain proper case filling to get a flat crimp? Do I need to use Remington wads or are Claybusters sufficient? Primers? Stick with Winchester 209? Or?

Lastly what manual is considered the "bible" of shotshell reloading? (should had been my first question)

Other advice?

Not in a big hurry - still have about 4K factory rounds to burn before things get critical.

Thanks!

[tabascoz28]

I think all wads I have are claybusters for cost but I also just shoot 7\8oz and stick with one powder. I'm also not a max loader so I'm just using published loads from the hodgdon website. Yeah those euro primers are just a tad bit larger, I'm saving those for when my sts is too streched but it might fail before then.

[edgerly779]

Winchester wts is match for 1 1/8 ounce clay loads.It is used in AAs

[Sir Toast]

I use a Mec 9000. The only thing I don't like about it is the primer feed. I "upgraded" to the 200 primer feeder and it just made it worse. Station one needs to be cleaned often. But it cranks out 1000's of shells like no tomorrow.

I also suggest you go to the websites of the component manufacturers you intend to use to see what they say, along with the Lyman's manual. Hopefully, the information will be duplicate.

[Revoman]

Believe it or not, the RCBS Shotshell Reloading book is also an excellent read with lots of information.
Wads, agree with other posters using Claybuster. I too shoot 1oz loads with the CB1100 wads in AA hulls.
I stick with USA primers too, a lot of stories about stretched primer pockets using Euro primers.
Finally, powder, use the manufacturer's powder and component recipes, they are normally very good. However, ALWAYS crosscheck by referring to other sources such as books to verify that the load you are considering is valid and safe.
Oh, and there WILL be shot spills, so perhaps putting a large cookie sheet-pan underneath your loader to catch errant shot is a good idea. You can bolt right through it into your bench when securing.

[swiftone]

Oh, and there WILL be shot spills, so perhaps putting a large cookie sheet-pan underneath your loader to catch errant shot is a good idea. You can bolt right through it into your bench when securing.

That is...a great idea!

And the Lyman shotshell book has been ordered - you guys are the best!

[bigbossman]

Oh, and there WILL be shot spills, so perhaps putting a large cookie sheet-pan underneath your loader to catch errant shot is a good idea. You can bolt right through it into your bench when securing.

Absolutely do this. I learned it the hard way.

[bigbossman]

Not a lot to add to the good advice you got here, but a couple of comments....


I've been reloading shotshells for literally decades. I settled on a recipe early on and have stuck with it since then (using the Lyman manual). I happened to start with Winchester AA hulls, as they were plentiful, cheap, worked well, and lasted a long time. I am stuck on 700x, because (again) it is easy to find and works well. Winchester AA wads, or Claybuster, Windjammer AA equivalents - I use them all interchangeably with the same powder/shot load (1 ounce).

One thing worth mentioning is that AA, STS, Premier, and the blue Peters hulls are compression formed (one piece plastic) and are pretty much interchangeable with the same load/components. Other hulls can be reloaded, but the bases are two piece and require different loads. Anecdotally - The new AA hulls are finicky, and are hard to get to crimp right. That's why I switched over to STS and Premier - they work great.

[Revoman]

"The new AA hulls are finicky, and are hard to get to crimp right."
Correct-a-mundo!
It's mostly because the HS hulls are actually now 2-piece and no longer uni-hulls.
The wads sometimes get hung up on the minor lip of the top of the piece at the base of the hull and won't allow it seat to proper depth. Thus, creating an ugly, or unusable, crimp.
Good advice bigbossman!

[bigbossman]

Good advice bigbossman!

Thanks. My main problem with the new AA hulls is that I get a little hole in the center of the crimp, and bb's leak out. A couple of years ago, a #8 pellet leaked into the trigger assembly of my auto, and jammed up the sear during the dove opener. Fortunately, I always carry a backup shotgun, so I was back in action very quickly.

Now, I could fiddle with the reloader (MEC 650) and get them to crimp right.....maybe. But I have a ton of old style AA once fired hulls, as well as bins full of STS and Premier once fired. So, it was easier to just continue as-is and toss the new AA huls.

[Revoman]

Yep, the hole in the center is caused by the pre-crimp not folding enough. It's easy to fix (by the way, I have four 650's, 12-20-28-410).
If you Google the issue, you'll find info on it.
For the most part, you adjust it so that the pointed end of a pencil lead (the widest part of the lead itself) will just fit into the center, then when it goes to final crimp, you're good.
Also, if you still have the steel/metal pre-crimp, get the plastic one with the free-floating head, it works much better.
OR....stick with the old uni-hulls and be good to go!
mike

[bigbossman]

I appreciate the tutorial, and I will make a note of it. Truthfully though, I have so many of the older hulls that I probably will not run out in my lifetime.