Case holder for use with prep center

[rhodesengr]

I have done a bunch of searching but can't find what I am looking for.

Here is the issue. I have a Lyman case prep center and before that I put case prep tools in a drill motor. I know most folks simply hold the brass with their fingers while running the primer pocket tools. Sometimes a case will catch and once or twice I have cut my finger.

So it would be nice to have a simple, hand-held chuck or collet (perhaps with a handle at 90 degrees) to hold a brass case firmly while running the various tools on the case.

I have a Dewalt chuck that goes in my Dewalt power screwdriver. That just doesn't work very well when not mounted in the driver. Maybe some other generic chuck or pin vise would work.

I can't be the only person that has cut his fingers while prepping brass. Any purpose built products or adaptations?

I did find the Lee trimmer kit and that comes with a 3-jaw chuck that might work.

[ar15barrels]

Look into wilson case holders.
You press or knock the case in and it taper locks.
To remove, you press or knock the case out.

Here is a link to knocking cases into and out of the holders:

https://youtu.be/hGFOZBAGB2k?t=132

[drkphibr]

I have done a bunch of searching but can't find what I am looking for.

Here is the issue. I have a Lyman case prep center and before that I put case prep tools in a drill motor. I know most folks simply hold the brass with their fingers while running the primer pocket tools. Sometimes a case will catch and once or twice I have cut my finger.

So it would be nice to have a simple, hand-held chuck or collet (perhaps with a handle at 90 degrees) to hold a brass case firmly while running the various tools on the case.

I have a Dewalt chuck that goes in my Dewalt power screwdriver. That just doesn't work very well when not mounted in the driver. Maybe some other generic chuck or pin vise would work.

I can't be the only person that has cut his fingers while prepping brass. Any purpose built products or adaptations?

I did find the Lee trimmer kit and that comes with a 3-jaw chuck that might work.

This was my solution to holding onto brass while trimming (either brass that still had some lube or short bottleneck brass that's hard to grip - idea starts at ~3:00 mark or so)...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7VsnUVQg-rc

[rhodesengr]

I guess I should have said I am loading handgun brass:9mm and 357 Magnum.

Look into wilson case holders.

This was my solution to holding onto brass while trimming (either brass that still had some lube or short bottleneck brass that's hard to grip - idea starts at ~3:00 mark or so)...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7VsnUVQg-rc

That's a clever idea for holding brass while working on the mouth end but I mostly need to work on the primer pocket.

As of now, I am hoping this chuck will work

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JVJM9SZ/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[ar15barrels]

9mm and 357magnum don't need any work done on a case prep center.
Tumble them clean and then reload them.

[FLIGHT762]

The only "Work" I could see having to do on 9MM cases is cutting the primer crimp. I would just use gloves, if you have a lot to do.

I had to cut a few primer crimps recently out some 9MM. I just used the cutter in my RCBS prep center. No gloves.

What "Work" are you doing to the cases?

I've never needed to clean the primer pockets on Pistol cases.

The only time I mess with primer pockets is squaring the primer pocket on precision Rifle cases. I usually don't even clean them after that.

[rhodesengr]

What "Work" are you doing to the cases?

Pocket reaming, pocket uniforming, pocket bottom cleaning.

Whether any of it is needed is open for discussion. I understand some don't even clean their brass. Others just clean and the load.

I started using the reaming tool because I bought a bunch of Ginex primers and they run large while my Starline Brass is said to run small. The Ginex Primers were very difficult to push in to new un worked primer pockets. I have a separate thread about that. Apparently it is a common issue with Ginex primers.

I am relatively new to cleaning brass. I am still developing my process. My last batch still had a small amount of crud in the primer pockets.

I want the option to hold the brass with a tool. So that is what this thread is about. Particularly when I run the reaming tool, I can get some catches that risk my fingers.

So needed or not, that is what I am looking for. I found a collet block set on Amazon that would work with a 3/8" collet if that cheapo chuck doesn't work out. Also I have an RCBS pullet puller that would work if I can find a collet that fits the brass rather than the bullet. 357 Mag cases are close to 3/8" dia and that might be too small for the .40 Cal collet and too big for .375 collet.

[ar15barrels]

So needed or not, that is what I am looking for. I found a collet block set on Amazon that would work with a 3/8" collet if that cheapo chuck doesn't work out. Also I have an RCBS pullet puller that would work if I can find a collet that fits the brass rather than the bullet. 357 Mag cases are close to 3/8" dia and that might be too small for the .40 Cal collet and too big for .375 collet.

357 mag cases should be around 0.381" to 0.383" depending on the chamber they were fired in or if they are resized and how far they are resized.

A 10mm ER-20 collet would hold them just fine as metric ER collets typically have a 1mm grip range.

You can get a 1mm to 13mm ER20 collet set for around $24 and an ER-20 collet chuck for around $13.

I don't think ER collets will hold a tapered 9mm case well though.
You would do much better with a wilson case holder and getting an arbor press for 9mm.

[Cowboy T]

I use Starline cases with all sorts of brands of primers, including the following.

• CCI
• Federal
• Fiocchi
• Remington
• Murom, often sold under the Wolf and Tulammo brands
• Winchester

The Starline cases have been great with all of these. In my experience, they don't run small in the primer pockets. Seating primers in them has been, for me, just as easy as with other headstamps.

However, I have had a few issues with Sellier and Bellot (S&B) cases. It's not because the primer pockets are small, but rather because the primer pockets aren't as well chamfered as other brands are. In my case, an RCBS primer pocket swager solved that problem.

For the other stuff, you really don't need to do any of that. There is no need to clean the primer pockets or trim the cases, etc. I do a lot of .38/357, .45 ACP, .44 Spl/Mag, and .45 Colt, and even some 9mm, and never has any of that been required. Rifle cases, yes, trimming matters, and for match rifle ammo, I clean the primer pockets...but never with handgun cases.

[rhodesengr]

You can get a 1mm to 13mm ER20 collet set for around $24 and an ER-20 collet chuck for around $13.

Links?

[ar15barrels]

Links?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/155040922145

https://www.ebay.com/itm/143659902367

[rhodesengr]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/155040922145
https://www.ebay.com/itm/143659902367

Thanks. Who knew there were some many different types of collets. Reading up a bit, they say the ER collets are not so good for holding short pieces which is what I think you were alluding to. The 5C type collet is said to be better for short pieces but less adjustment range. Also, with 5C type you can get a block closer with a quick release handle like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09VBLSCHD/

I didn't see anything like that for ER type.

I am still hoping my cheapo drill chuck will be enough.

Thanks for the ideas though.

[ar15barrels]

Thanks. Who knew there were some many different types of collets. Reading up a bit, they say the ER collets are not so good for holding short pieces which is what I think you were alluding to. The 5C type collet is said to be better for short pieces but less adjustment range. Also, with 5C type you can get a block closer with a quick release handle like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09VBLSCHD/

I didn't see anything like that for ER type.

I am still hoping my cheapo drill chuck will be enough.

Thanks for the ideas though.

When people talk about short pieces, they are generally talking about something less than half the length of it's diameter.
5C collets can have a stop installed inside them so you can slip a disc into the collet and seat the disc against the stop to hold it straight.
You can do this same thing with other types of collets as well, but you have to create your own collet stop setup as other types of collets don't have internal threads in them for the specific purpose.

I have 5c collet blocks and the lever closer and it's way too big/heavy to be useful as a handheld tool.
That's why I steered you to an ER-20 collet.
You just twist the two sides of the collet chuck to loosen or tighten and the collet chuck is the right size to hold in your hand.
An ER-20 collet will hold your 357 mag brass perfectly.

If you knew someone with an ID grinder, they could open up a 9mm ER-20 collet to match the standard taper of a 9x19 case so it would work good for the 9x19 tapered cases.
There is not a standard collet made with an inside taper like you need as standard collets of all types are made to grip straight shanks.

[rhodesengr]

The $10 chuck looks to work nicely. Just barely big enough for 357 Mag but I think I am good. Thanks for all the input and discussion.

[ar15barrels]

The $10 chuck looks to work nicely. Just barely big enough for 357 Mag but I think I am good. Thanks for all the input and discussion.

A 3 jaw drill chuck is going to distort the 357 cases if you don't put a support pin inside the case to clamp against.
That's where ER collets shine because they have 12 points of contact instead of 3 and the 12 contact points have the same radius as the part being held vs a 3 jaw chuck that has flat jaws to hold multiple sizes over a wide diameter range.