This has not been my experience, at least for pistol rounds. I have satisfactorily seated and crimped in one operation, for decades. I will agree that doing it separately would probably get better results, but my ammo has been going "bang" just fine, all the while being reliable in feeding as well as accuracy. Again - it might not be the absolute best way to do it, but it works just fine if your die is properly adjusted.
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"Give a conservative a pile of bricks and you get a beautiful city. Give a leftist a city and you get a pile of bricks." -
Gonna need the .17cc dipper for that 32. It doesn't come in the set. You can get it from Lee for $1. If you buy the Lee dies kit for .32 it comes with a .17cc dipper though.Originally posted by PalmarisYou should not worry about me. This web site is monitored by all kind of authorities and if they found this kind of post credible enough as threat, they might want to start investigation. I have no idea what can be outcome. Just saying.Comment
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This has not been my experience, at least for pistol rounds. I have satisfactorily seated and crimped in one operation, for decades. I will agree that doing it separately would probably get better results, but my ammo has been going "bang" just fine, all the while being reliable in feeding as well as accuracy. Again - it might not be the absolute best way to do it, but it works just fine if your die is properly adjusted.
I said that you can use a seat and crimp die as ONLY a seating die or ONLY a crimping die and then run the cases through the die twice to get better results than you get using it to do both at once.
You absolutely get better results by separating the seating from the crimping.
I have adjusted a die to do both and then tried it separately and I won't do both at once anymore.Randall Rausch
AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
Most work performed while-you-wait.Comment
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A standard seat/crimp die can be adjusted to ONLY seat or ONLY crimp and then be used two separate times.
This is the better way to do it.
When you are loading on a progressive press, you do need separate dies to do the seat and the crimp for best results.
You can also seat and crimp at the same time, but the results are not as good as you have the case being pushed against the bullet while the bullet is still being pushed downwards into the case.
By separating the steps, you seat the bullet to it's final length and then you crimp the case against the side of the bullet.
In this manner, the case will not dig into the side of the bullet while the bullet is still moving down into the case.
Did you over look that???
Or- do u have some other explanation for (what appears to be ) your erroneous guidance for a taper crimp in a revolver??????Tire kickers gonna kick,
Nose pickers gonna pick
I and others know the realComment
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Pooty Poot, you sure screwed the pooch this time! - Ghost of Roza Shanina, WWII Soviet SniperComment
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Wait a damned minute here......Ever body and their brother(s) here on CGN KNOWS that for wheel gunz, a ROLLED crimp of some sort is required to avoid "bullet creep" during firing,,,,,
But a total waste of time, and only serve to shorten case life on a puny little 32 S&W with an 85 gr bullet moving at 705 fps.
All the OP needs to do to "crimp" this round, is straighten the bell from the expander operation.
Just like I've done to tens of thousands of rounds of 38 Spl.Comment
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Wait a damned minute here......Ever body and their brother(s) here on CGN KNOWS that for wheel gunz, a ROLLED crimp of some sort is required to avoid "bullet creep" during firing,,,,,
Did you over look that???
Or- do u have some other explanation for (what appears to be ) your erroneous guidance for a taper crimp in a revolver??????Never initiate force against another. That should be the underlying principle of your life. But should someone do violence to you, retaliate without hesitation, without reservation, without quarter, until you are sure that he will never wish to harm - or never be capable of harming - you or yours again.
- from THE SECOND BOOK OF KYFHO
(Revised Eastern Sect Edition)Comment
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Very interesting. Do you know how much it costs? Have a link? I couldn't find anything on their website.Pooty Poot, you sure screwed the pooch this time! - Ghost of Roza Shanina, WWII Soviet SniperComment
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OP,
I've had single stage presses, turret presses, and progressive presses.
Get a single stage. It doesn't take that long to screw in a die. There will never be flex on a single stage like there usually is on a turret or progressive. It's cheaper and simpler. From the description of what you need, you're better off with a single stage.
Note that Lee presses are made of some pretty crappy metal, zinc or the like. Keep the ram well-lubed or you will wear it out fast. Ask me how I know.
WRT using the seater-crimper die, I have always done what Randall describes. The crimping part is in the die body, the seater part is a rod that screws in. To seat the bullet, unscrew the body of the die so it's not all the way down. Screw down the seater so it pushes the bullet into the case without the die body putting a crimp on the case. Once done with seating, unscrew the seater so it doesn't touch the bullet when you crimp. Screw down the die body until you're happy with the crimp.Comment
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$160.00
Search for NRA Basic Metallic Cartridge Reloading CourseLast edited by Divehobo; 11-08-2022, 7:41 PM.NRA Pistol, Rifle, CCW and Metallic Reloading instructorComment
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I seat and crimp in one step with revolver cartridges. My bullets have crimp grooves. If the die is set properly, there is no shaving of lead or bullet coating. Just tucks the case neatly in the crimp groove.Heavy loads are crimped separately using a modified collet crimp.
Originally posted by PalmarisYou should not worry about me. This web site is monitored by all kind of authorities and if they found this kind of post credible enough as threat, they might want to start investigation. I have no idea what can be outcome. Just saying.Comment
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Granted the LEE aluminum presses are not as strong as the LEE iron presses, but neither are the other companies aluminum presses. The LEE classic presses are some of the highest recommended presses around and for more reasons than their price. My RCBS rockchucker will be on my bench till the day I die for my rifle rounds as will my LEE Classic turret because it's simple strong and fast.CALGUNS DICTIONARY "FLIER": when a shooter wants to turn a 1 inch group to a half inch group because he flinched.Comment
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I have never done any reloading. Most of my shooting, and all my high volume shooting, is with "mainsteam" claibers and I am pretty well stocked. I have FFL03 and COE and can order online if I need to restock.
But I recently picked up a couple revolvers in the decidely non-mainstream .32 S&W (short, not .32 S&W Long). This ammo is not easy to find, to say the least.
So I would like to test the waters reloading for it. Will never crank out large volumes and for now will only focus on this one revolvor cartridge. I want to think about the minimum sensible set up I need in order to do this. Don't want to spend a lot of money. If I like and want to crank out high volumes later, I can invest more as I go.
A Lee CLassic Hand Loader would be great in this situation, but they don't make them in .32 S&W any more, and I haven't been able to find one on EBay or anywhere. So I need a press of some kind.
I have read a little bit about this but have no first hand experience. Here is what I am thinking:
- A signle stage press, maybe something like this Lee press for $62 with free Prime delivery: http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Reloading-...0-890f5a4e2f90
Or maybe spend a bit more and get this sturdier looking model: http://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-...0-890f5a4e2f90
Then I need dies. Lee sells a carbide three die set for $51: https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION...0-890f5a4e2f90
And apparently I need to order a crimping die separately ($28): http://www.ebay.com/itm/265661937605...3ABFBM0MCdzYhh
What else do I need? Something for setting primers? Reloading manual? Anything else? I want to do this properly and safely, but do not need or want to invest in the ideal set up.
Alternatively, I saw this kit at Walmart that comes with the .32 S&W dies: http://www.walmart.com/ip/LEE-PRO-10...-ALUM/34374183
It seems like a lot of stuff for the money, but the press also seems complicated, and presumably cheaply made, has a lot that can break and I won't know how to fix it. But it is tempting to give this one a try.
Aprreciate nay thoughts or alternatives. Please refrain from showing me your perfect relaoding bench with $20,000 investing, that is nto going to accomplish anything aside from making me jealous. Thanks in advance!
Lee is the lower end of the quality scale, but would be very adequate for your purposes. I'd recommend RCBS or Redding for just a few bucks more. If you've served your country, RCBS offers a very good military discount if you purchase from their website.
You want a good roll crimp on revolver rounds. You don't need a separate die. You can get an acceptable roll crimp from a combined seating/crimping die.
You can spend a ton of money on reloading stuff (ask how I know this), but that extra money usually goes to speeding up the loading process, or to shrinking the size of the hole that your rounds make on the target. If your goal is to produce reliable rounds for plinking at a target, you can do that quite inexpensively.
A good reloading manual is essential, but if you can get some "Hand-on" instruction, that also really helps the learning curve. Reloading is quite safe if you do it right, but has the potential be quite dangerous if you do it wrong.If you build a man a fire, you'll keep him warm for the evening. If you set a man on fire, you'll keep him warm for the rest of his life.Comment
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Randall Rausch
AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
Most work performed while-you-wait.Comment
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