Reloading Coated Lead 9mm

[Sandspider500]

[eaglemike]

Listen to pacrat. I might vary, but only a little in few details. I've been loading coated lead in 9mm for about 30 years. I use/prefer the bullet to be .001 over groove diameter if possible, this is especially important in barrels like factory Glock. Some people will tell you it can't be done. Those people just don't know how to do it, or don't want to do it. Powder selection also makes a difference. If the bullet is small, with fast powder (more heat) one can and likely will get leading. This really doesn't matter which barrel. By small, I mean too small diameter. I prefer .356 in most 9mm barrels. I've had very good luck with .357 in the past with factory Glock barrels. I prefer something about the speed of Winchester Super Field, very good luck with that for a long time using 147 and 125 grain. YMMV, depending on desired performance and brass used, etc. Pay attention to OAL, as this makes a big difference in both feeding and pressure. You are already paying attention to the case mouth, flare needs to be big enough to easily start the bullet and not scrape the coating.
This is offered as my experience only, just background for consideration.

Good luck!


Edited to add - bullet hardness under the coating can also make a difference. You'll need to experiment a bit as you go. Size is very important.

[capo602002]

Been very happy using NOE expander in 9mm. Even if you have to purchase a Lee universal sizer it is probably less expensive that an M die.

https://noebulletmolds.com/site/product-category/expanders/

[sigstroker]

When I used to load lead bullets, I did it in two steps. First step, seat the bullet, no crimp. Done by screwing the seater plug way down.

Second step, crimp only. Screw the seater plug way up. Then crimp. It takes a lot longer, but my ammo doesn't get effed up.

[broadside]

I am running Bear Creek Supply poly coated 9mm in my L-n-L.

Hornady powder through expander die in the powder drop and basic RCBS combined seating/crimp die, Mr Bullet feeder too.

Works great and takes 2-3 good whacks in an inertia puller to pull the bullet and makes consistent power factor. 10,000 rounds so far and no issues from the crimp and just bought another 15k and won't change a thing in my setup. It's not bullseye quality ammo but its accurate enough for USPSA and SCSA distances and requirements

It just took some time to find the right die setup for the expander and the taper/seater. Timing the full seat and the crimp just takes trial and error. I could use a 6th station or remove my powder cop and go with separate dies but that would be too easy :-) I followed the same basic process as pacrat mentioned when i setup my press.

[vdubber]

Thank you everyone. Since I have a combo seat/crimp, I'll keep adjusting for now and see what I get.

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[pacrat]

Thank you everyone. Since I have a combo seat/crimp, I'll keep adjusting for now and see what I get.

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Following these 4 steps will properly TIME the two operations [seat/crimp] your die does. And takes the "trial and error" and "guesswork" out of adjusting a seat/crimp die.

[1] ... Start with die body set too high for the crimp portion, to engage your flare.

[2] ..... Seat a bullet to desired OAL. Then back off the seating stem quite a bit.

[3] ..... Now start screwing down the die body. Little at a time. Until the flare JUST becomes straight. NO MORE....... LOCK IT.

[4] ..... Now, with the seated and crimped bullet all the way up inside the adjusted CRIMP die. Screw the seating stem down until it contacts the bullet in the die. LOCK IT. .............YOU'RE DONE.

I've been reloading for 44 yrs for rapid fire, shell shucking, semi auto pistols, that use straight walled taper crimped ammo. And that is the bestest/fastest foolproof die adj method.



BTW, OT question. What kind of Dub? I've had, 1960 Ghia, 66 Bus, 69 SqBk, A rail, and a couple of Bajas over the years.

[vdubber]

Had 89 MK2 8v 98 MK3 VR6. No VW now. Wish they made a large SUV to compete with the American brands

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[vdubber]

You had quite the collection. They are fun cars. My buddy drag races bugs. Definitely a tempting purchase in the future.

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[smoothy8500]

Following these 4 steps will properly TIME the two operations [seat/crimp] your die does. And takes the "trial and error" and "guesswork" out of adjusting a seat/crimp die.

Yup, not as complicated as some others make it sound. The devil's in the details.

[TomReloaded]

I smoosh my coated lead bullets excessively, flare my brass a ton, and run bullet diameters hardly over the groove diameter, in a Glock, so poly rifling on top of all that...

And tens of thousands of rounds later, not only has there not been problems, the ammo is quicker on target and more accurate than premium factory.

A lot of the old-school stuff people assume is necessary for accuracy just plainly doesn't matter at 5-15 yards out of a pistol.

OP, your flare is way more than necessary but it's not a huge deal. I'd probably step it back a hair, just so the press runs a little smoother.

Back your crimp off until it's doing basically no crimping, just flattening your flair back down. Or run a Lee fcd instead and get perfect ammo all day no matter what.

[bergmen]

If you’re going to be loading powder coated bullets regularly, you’ll want to invest in a Lyman M die. These actually expand the case neck and not just flare the case lip. A standard flare only opens the case lips and the bullet still swages down and often removes the coating (as well as shrinks the diameter of the bullet). Head over to the Castboolits forum for more info if you’re interested in learning a ton of tips.

Yep, RCBS has one also, I just received one. My brother and I are just starting to load these (he has more experience than I do). He has loaded several with his new expander with no issues. We both have Rock Chuckers.



Dan