Reloading Class for Rifles

[foleys]

I have a pre 64 model 70 winchester that belonged to a good friend who passed away. He had this chambered in some type of wildcat round (6 mm necked down 284. 85 grain sierra spritzer I think)

I wanted to know where I could learn to reload for this particular rifle and or order some custom ammo to use it in his memory.

I'm a sporting clays shooter, so the rifle world is new to me. Any help would be appreciated.

[Jwalt]

If you're in Southern California ReloadOC is an invaluable resource. If they can't help you'll get pointed in the right direction.

http://reloadoc.com/contact-us/

[mrkubota]

I'm an 06FFL custom ammo mfg in the IE. I can arrange to teach you, or make them for you.

[sigstroker]

Any chance you can look through any of his reloading stuff? Write down any powders and bullets you see.

[foleys]

I'm an 06FFL custom ammo mfg in the IE. I can arrange to teach you, or make them for you.

That would be great, I have some sample rounds he left if that is helpful.

[foleys]

If you're in Southern California ReloadOC is an invaluable resource. If they can't help you'll get pointed in the right direction.

http://reloadoc.com/contact-us/

Thank you, I will look into it.

[foleys]

Any chance you can look through any of his reloading stuff? Write down any powders and bullets you see.

I am going through some old stuff, but he passed a world away so that would not be possible.

[foleys]

I am going through some old stuff, but he passed a world away so that would not be possible.

Strangely enough he did give me some samples this is what I can find:

He left me an ammo box with it so there is a barely legible label that says the following:

I think it is a Winchester 284 Cartridge necked down to 6 mm from 7 mm.

Cap is CCI Mag Rifle and it may be Dupont 4350 powder 50 grains and a 85 grain Sierra Spitzer bullet. It is barely legible.

Does that sound about right?

[QED]

The 6mm-284 has become a popular wildcat so dies are readily available or you can buy a redding type s bushing die in 284 and then buy some 6mm bushings if you can't find 6mm-284 dies in stock. A 284 seating die might work but I'd buy a 6mm seating stem for it.

Before you buy components, figure out the rifle's twist rate. Older guns rarely have fast enough twist rates for modern high BC bullets. Also, if you plan to hunt in CA, you have to use lead-free bullets, which tend to be longer than normal bullets of the same weight, so your bullet choice may be severely restricted.

[divingin]

The 6mm-284 has become a popular wildcat so dies are readily available or you can buy a redding type s bushing die in 284 and then buy some 6mm bushings if you can't find 6mm-284 dies in stock. A 284 seating die might work but I'd buy a 6mm seating stem for it.

Before you buy components, figure out the rifle's twist rate. Older guns rarely have fast enough twist rates for modern high BC bullets.

To be clear, the OP would need a Type S Full bushing die, plus the appropriate bushing. If he goes with the Type S Neck die, he'd have no way to bump the shoulder or size the case body when that need arised (though having a straight 284 Win sizing die would probably work as long as the shoulder angle wasn't changed; but that means buying another die.)

There's a good selection of 6mm bullets, from 50ish grain through 115gn heavies, so finding one that shoots shouldn't be too much of a problem.

The general rule is a slow twist rate is for light bullets, fast twist for heavies.

Slow in 6mm is 1:14" to about 1:10"; fast twist will be down to 1:7" or so. 14 twist works great with 50 to about 70 grain bullets; 8 twist is commonly used for the 105gn class (but should also work with light bullets as long as you don't overspin them.)

Hunting is another story given the lead ban. I don't hunt so have no input on lead free.

Note to OP: Measuring twist rate: Get a cleaning rod, a suitable jag, and a patch. Start the patch in the bore (from the chamber end is preferable), and wrap a small piece of tape around the rod (or otherwise mark it) at a repeatable location (where the rod enters the action works.) Place another piece of tape near the rod handle, and make a mark at the top. Push the rod forward until the mark near the handle makes one full revolution, and place a second mark as you did for the first piece. Remove the rod and measure between the two markers.

[Epaphroditus]

Twist rate, sample ammo and chamber casting - let someone who knows what they are doing make you ammo.

Starting a reloading journey with such a rifle is taking an exceptionally large bite.

Eventually you can certainly get there so as to be able to make highly tuned ammo for optimal performance.

Reloading doesnt have to be rocket science but there are some undeniable risks. Start on the bunny slope then work your way through the progression to the black diamond.

[BrassCase]

OP, where are you located?

Diablo at USI in Concord has a reloading club that meets monthly. If you are near, those guys would have you set in no time.

[jaborni]

take mr kabuto's offer

[QED]

To be clear, the OP would need a Type S Full bushing die, plus the appropriate bushing. If he goes with the Type S Neck die, he'd have no way to bump the shoulder or size the case body when that need arised (though having a straight 284 Win sizing die would probably work as long as the shoulder angle wasn't changed; but that means buying another die.)

There's a good selection of 6mm bullets, from 50ish grain through 115gn heavies, so finding one that shoots shouldn't be too much of a problem.

The general rule is a slow twist rate is for light bullets, fast twist for heavies.

Slow in 6mm is 1:14" to about 1:10"; fast twist will be down to 1:7" or so. 14 twist works great with 50 to about 70 grain bullets; 8 twist is commonly used for the 105gn class (but should also work with light bullets as long as you don't overspin them.)

Hunting is another story given the lead ban. I don't hunt so have no input on lead free.

Note to OP: Measuring twist rate: Get a cleaning rod, a suitable jag, and a patch. Start the patch in the bore (from the chamber end is preferable), and wrap a small piece of tape around the rod (or otherwise mark it) at a repeatable location (where the rod enters the action works.) Place another piece of tape near the rod handle, and make a mark at the top. Push the rod forward until the mark near the handle makes one full revolution, and place a second mark as you did for the first piece. Remove the rod and measure between the two markers.

Thanks for translating my post! I didn't specify full-length vs neck sizing die because in the high precision shooting disciplines, neck sizing has become something of an anachronism. What I refer to as "minimal full-length-resizing" has become the gold standard, i.e., full length resize but only bump the shoulders back about 0.001" for bolt guns and 0.003" for ARs.