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Help me start from scratch with a Forster Coax

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  • #16
    SoCal Gunner
    Senior Member
    • Feb 2010
    • 1632

    You really don't "need" anything else. I'll echo the suggestion to get more of their rings for convenience.
    I don't have one, but I've seen an led kit for lighting that I think would be nice.
    .

    .

    California Reloading Club - IE Section

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    • #17
      middleofnowhere
      Senior Member
      • Aug 2010
      • 579

      Thank you everyone.
      I will order a bunch of the rings for sure. I have an old Lee Auto Prime, they are cheap and that is one thing I learned from watching videos is to have a separate priming tool. I’ll wait on lighting to see how the bench set-up turns out. This is a new house and new room, so lot’s of things to do. I’ll post some pics when I get it going.

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      • #18
        SoCal Gunner
        Senior Member
        • Feb 2010
        • 1632

        Just always be safe - if any doubt, dump it and redo!
        .

        .

        California Reloading Club - IE Section

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        • #19
          23's Dad
          Senior Member
          • Jun 2010
          • 502

          Good Choice!

          I have loaded on a Co-Ax for years. I think you are making a wise decision.

          Buy a Manual - I started with the Sierra, but now I have at least 6 different ones.

          You will need to purchase the "LS" jaws to load 338 LM. The standard jaws are too small for that case head (or 44M or 45C). You might be able to pull it off, but the case will not be gripped properly and you risk damaging the case rim or the jaws. I chipped out a moonshaped slice of my large standard jaws when I forgot to reverse them for 223. I also had trouble using 44M on the standard jaws, it was difficult to get the rim under the jaws and it was only gripped on the corners.

          The Inline Fabrication arms are a nice-to-have, but unnecessary option. I have big hands, and I use them, but it wasn't too difficult using the standard arms for years.

          The Inline Fabrication quick mount plate is a nice option to get the press out of the way if your bench is small (like mine).

          I find that a flashlight is better for me than an on-press light. The lighting kit options are kinda kludgy and then the adhesive fails. This one has a magnetic base that you can attach to the press and adjust to provide light: https://www.harborfreight.com/390-lu...ght-56329.html

          I like Hornady & Forester dies because the lock rings are compatible, or you can use any other die, but you need to replace the lock rings as stated above.

          I like the Forster Co-Ax Primer tool instead of the press mounted priming system. I don't like to touch primers for fear of contamination. It's probably groundless, but I don't walk under ladders either.

          I use a balance beam scale because I don't want to pay for a high dollar magnetic balance and I don't think the little cheapy electronic scales are very reliable. Again, see ladder comment.

          As a dedicated SS reloader, you learn to look for ways to streamline your process. I try to find ways to handle brass as few times as possible, but it is inevitable that each round will get handled at least 6-8 times on it's way to completion.

          For Rifle Rounds:
          1. Decap - Harvey Deprime Tool
          2. Clean - Frankford Armory Rotary Tumbler with Pins
          3. Air Dry on back patio in sun - Works year round in So. Cal.
          4. Lube and Resize - Imperial Sizing Wax - No need to remove, by the time we are done, it will all ruboff on your hands
          5. Gauge Primer Pockets - Looking for crimped or loose primer pockets. We don't want to waste a single SRP in this environment. Swage brass that is crimped, toss brass that accepts No-Go.
          6. Trim to length - get a Giraud tri-way
          7. Prime
          8. Charge - keep with powders that throw well - only trickle for the 500+ yd lines (NRA Mid Range or Long Range).
          9. Seat bullet


          Pistol:
          1. Decap - Harvey Deprime Tool
          2. Clean - Frankford Armory Rotary Tumbler with Pins
          3. Air Dry on back patio in sun - Works year round in So. Cal.
          4. Lube and Resize - Imperial Sizing Wax - No need to remove, by the time we are done, it will all ruboff on your hands
          5. Gauge Primer Pockets - Looking for crimped or loose primer pockets. We don't want to waste a single primer in this environment. Swage brass that is crimped, toss brass that accepts No-Go.
          6. Flare - I like the Lyman M-die
          7. Prime
          8. Charge - thrown charges here too. I'm not good enough with a pistol to know the difference of +- 0.1 gr
          9. Seat bullet
          10. Crimp


          Best Wishes!
          Last edited by 23's Dad; 01-11-2021, 2:02 PM.

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          • #20
            scamp62
            Senior Member
            • May 2010
            • 1009

            I had one for 30 plus years. and love it!!

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            • #21
              Dave626
              Senior Member
              • Sep 2012
              • 1038

              don't give it away this time.

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              • #22
                fnlrun
                Member
                • Aug 2018
                • 486

                If your not stuck on the Forrester, the Frankford Arsenal M press is very nice to. AND you can use the Lee dies

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                • #23
                  AandO
                  Member
                  • Nov 2014
                  • 449


                  Huh? You might be in need of a press next week the way things are going.

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