9mm case prep for RL 1100?

[xCrunch]

I'm getting a Dillon RL 1100 soon and I noticed that in all the videos, the brass being provided already has primers (because of the de-priming stage). Wouldn't you want to clean your brass first?

I just got done cleaning about 1,000 rounds by de-priming then cleaning in a sonic cleaner. It would seem to me that is the minimum you would want to do before feeding into the RL 1100.

What is the right way to do it? De-prime -> sonic clean -> dry -> (trim???) -> feed into RL 1100?

[ar15barrels]

The proper way to feed a 1050 (and therefore an 1100) is to pick up the fired cases off the ground, sort by cartridge, dry tumble and then reload.
Do your sorting before your tumbling so the 9's don't get stuck in the 40's and the 40's in the 45's etc...
Dry tumble so there is some dust left on your cases to act as a dry lube in the carbide Dillon dies.

There is no need to decap before cleaning.
Decapping before tumbling lets media get stuck in the flash hole or in the primer pocket if you use larger media.
This adds extra work to inspect the cases and knock out the media from the flash holes or the primer pockets.

Most wet cleaning processes leave the brass too clean and the cases will gall to the dies if you don't put some lube on them.
The easiest way to lube wet cleaned cases is to run them in a dry tumbler with corn cob or walnut shells.

[kcheung2]

If I wet tumble, I would want to deprime first so that during the wet tumbling process the primer pocket gets cleaned too. I would use a universal deprimer so that my dies don't get dirty.

If I dry tumble, I would clean first then deprime because the depriming process would also punch out any walnut bits stuck in the flash hole. The primer pocket stays dirty, but whatever. Doesn't affect anything.

[xCrunch]

When I dry tumble I check each casing primer pocket anyway, so I'm not super concerned about media in there, but @ar15barrels brings up a really great point about lubing the cases. I do notice some resistance even in my gun barrel (I reload to a really tight spec...1.165 OAL) after wet cleaning.

I may just stick with dry tumbling (I've currently got a dry vibrating cleaner that takes like 12 hours to clean). That would be the easiest to go straight from the range to the reloader.

[the86d]

Once reason I do not buy brass... ?
It's FREE where I shoot, you say, "Do you reload?" if they say no, then say "I'll clean that brass up for you, and thanks..." as they appear to be cleaning up... ~50% of reloading costs is brass.
Some of my brass was reloaded countless time BEFORE I got it from a guy who passed on to a higher-plane.

Stack it like it's HAWT... stack it like it's HAWT...

9mm brass might be at a premium NOW, but normally it's not, for most people... w/out a reloading press.

I have THOUSANDS of pieces of 9mm brass, mostly range pickup, and I ALWAYS come back with more than I came with...

If I see someone with a Beamer, Benz, or Luxury SUV, I KNOW they won't want their brass... so I ask... ... ...

[alland]

My case prep is simply dry tumble and load them.

[the86d]

My case prep is simply dry tumble and load them.

I "MOIST" tumble with brasso, a solvent, and cob (and cotton scraps, or laundry-softener sheets), then load them.

They don't bling, more dull shine, but they shoot GREAT!

[five.five-six]

If I wet tumble, I would want to deprime first so that during the wet tumbling process the primer pocket gets cleaned too. I would use a universal deprimer so that my dies don't get dirty.

[five.five-six]

(I've currently got a dry vibrating cleaner that takes like 12 hours to clean).

Your media is probably worn out.