I need a simple set up for pulling bullets and removing some of the powder charge

[Starslinger]

I don't have any reloading equipment yet. What I want to do is take regular 7.62x39 ammo like Tula or Wolf, pull the bullets, decrease the powder charge, and then reseat and recrimp the bullets. I watched a video where a guy did this to make subsonic ammo. What I want to do is make low-power 7.62x39 so that I can safely plink steel targets at 25 yards.

I think what I need is a Collet puller die, and then a die for reseating and recrimping the bullet, plus a scale and a funnel for measuring and reinserting the powder. I'm wondering if I should try to set this up with two single stage presses, or if I should use a progressive reloading setup. At some point I may also need help deciding how much powder charge to put back inside the casings. Bullet weight would probably be 123 or 124 grain. I have an AK with a 16 inch barrel and an SKS with a 20 inch barrel. I could use some advice as I have never done reloading, only watched videos. Thanks for any help!

[croue]

Sounds like a lot of trouble and need the same equipment as you need to just reload straight up.


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[Divernhunter]

Since you do not reload I will give you a pass. DEPENDING on the ammo used and where/when it was loaded a few factors come into play that were probably not in the video. Just how much you want to decrease the powder load. Some powders do not respond well to low charges. Damage /destroy gun and maybe you. Some bullets have a tar sealant which would mean removing it from the bullet and case neck. Some(much) of that ammo has a steel core so even reduced FPS can be very unsafe at close(25 yards) range for yourself or others. The powders the factories use are powders we cannot get so there will be no data for it. Leave factory ammo as is and make other ammo with stuff that we can buy and is a safe combo to you, your firearm and others around you.
Unless you want a single shot rifle you will need enough powder to make the action function which I doubt would be sub-sonic. Most sub ammo use a very heavy bullet with the correct powder and amount to make the action function.

Now buy the Lyman Reloading Manual #50 and READ IT. That will answer 90% of your questions and still give you some good data.
You only need 1 single stage press and batch process all of your brass. You will also need a collet bullet puller, scale, Dies, powder funnel and shell holder.
So buy a RCBS KIT and dies/shell holder to start with. Buy the Lyman book before you buy any equipment. Stay away from a progressive until you are doing large volumes of pistol ammo. No need for a turret press also. Batch process and it takes 30 seconds to swith dies every 100-5000+ pieces of brass.

[kevins750]

I have seen the same videos.

I am not recommending the process they show, I know it works for them but chances
Of an accident happening are present.

I shoot reduced loads in x39 but with pistol powder.

This is how i do x54r

To pull a seated bullet: I push the bullet down with a seating die (slightly to break the seal)
Use a bullet puller(hornady) remove a weighed amount of powder(usually about 4grs 0f the 50gr load)
Then seat the bullet, no crimp.

[JackEllis]

I think you got some good advice from Divernhunter and croue.

Personally I wouldn't go to the trouble of modifying factory ammo. Period. Just because someone did it on Youtube doesn't mean it makes sense, is safe, or that you can duplicate it. Especially if you're new to reloading.

Buy a few boxes of ammo that uses brass cases, then learn to reload those cases.

[TKM]

You have no way of knowing what kind of powder the factory used. Leave this kind of experimentation to those with too many fingers.

[divingin]

Agree with all the other posters. If you want to do this, though, you will need to procure a full reloading setup.

One option is to use Hodgdon's data for reduced rifle loads using Trail Boss powder (if you're using a semi-auto, these loads probably won't cycle the action.) A lead core, frangible bullet would be wise to lower the risk of anything coming back at you. At that point, you will not gain anything from doing the Mexican Match exercise, so starting with once-fired or need brass cases would be the best choice. And, at that point, you are reloading.



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[ar15barrels]

I don't have any reloading equipment yet. What I want to do is take regular 7.62x39 ammo like Tula or Wolf, pull the bullets, decrease the powder charge, and then reseat and recrimp the bullets. I watched a video where a guy did this to make subsonic ammo. What I want to do is make low-power 7.62x39 so that I can safely plink steel targets at 25 yards.

I think what I need is a Collet puller die, and then a die for reseating and recrimping the bullet, plus a scale and a funnel for measuring and reinserting the powder. I'm wondering if I should try to set this up with two single stage presses, or if I should use a progressive reloading setup. At some point I may also need help deciding how much powder charge to put back inside the casings. Bullet weight would probably be 123 or 124 grain. I have an AK with a 16 inch barrel and an SKS with a 20 inch barrel. I could use some advice as I have never done reloading, only watched videos. Thanks for any help!

Is your plan to close off the gas system and hand cycle the action?
Subsonic loads with the original powder are not going to have sufficient gas pressure to cycle the action.

[Full Clip]

Reduced to you possibly having a better chance of creating a squib.
Watch for it if you go down this road, which I would not.

[EricT71]

25 yds is pretty close for steel out of a rifle. Eye pro is mandatory. I have a TA Targets AR550 target that is rated for 5.56 at 30 yds. I tested it with M193 out of a 16" barrel at 50 yds and it pitted a tiny amount. Not wanting to damage my expensive target I looked into ways to slow the bullet down.

1) heavier projectile
2) shorter barrel
3) more angle is easier on the steel, plus its safer.

Obviously only use lead core ammo. 7.62x39 is a lot slower than 5.56, I think if you just use lead core on a quality target you'll be fine at 30 yds.

[Starslinger]

[kevins750]

DO NOT COPY MY LOAD

I shoot 6grs of unique with a 130gr plain base tumble lubed lead bullet in a x39 AR, it will not cycle the action.

I shoot it at paper at 50yds

[Donny1]

[pennstater]

You have no way of knowing what kind of powder the factory used. Leave this kind of experimentation to those with too many fingers.

^^^This!. Short and to the point.

[Starslinger]

Well, powder is pretty cheap. What if I pull the bullets, get rid of the powder and replace it with a well known powder, with a charge that brings the power level of the 7.62x39 down to handgun levels?

I think this might be both cheaper and less time-consuming than cleaning and resizing cases, loading new primers and reloading from scratch?