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OK---1100 pieces prepped. Bought a Dillon trimmer and 1K pieces of brass to practice on to dial that in. Here's where I have a problem and no idea what's going on. I set up the tool head for loading. Figured I load 100 rounds to test out on 3 different riffles. Once I started running The powder die was giving me a lot of problems. It would discharge the correct amount of powder but as I lowered the ram the powder die would spit out powder. I measured several rounds and the correct amount was dispersed and loaded---it's just the powder die would spit 10-15 grains of powder out as I lowered and indexed. after I finished the 100 piece run I took the powder measure apart and checked everything I could think of and just cant figure it out. Put it back together and it still does it. Powder is H322---its a pellet type powder. Could really use an assist on this one.
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Have you tried running graphite powder through the powder drop? I was having similar issues, ran graphite powder through, no more problems. -
223 Newbie #3
This was the only powder I have tried. Shooters Pro Shop recommended it. If I am hearing you correctly the pellet type powder could well be the problem? What powder are you using?Comment
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common issue. powder often bridges in the drop, especially if you need to funnel it down so narrow to fall into a 22 caliber case mouth. larger calibers are less prone to this. Ball powders also help prevent this.
I've used graphite, it's in the key section of home depot, I hose my powder drop with it and tap it out. That helps alot.
But after a few hundred rounds, it starts to be an issue again. I drilled out my funnels for my larger calibers and THAT permanently solved it. But you don;t have access to that solution.
Previously I tapped on the drops to ensure they fully charged into the case. My drops are transparent so I can see when they bridge at the smallest bottleneck.
Not sure what the best solution for you is, since 22 cal is a toughie. Might want to try a ball powder. Or just live with slower production and tap out the drop between pulls to ensure no bridging happens. It's worth living with if you have a killer load developed. But if you aren't married to a powder yet, find a ball powder.Comment
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I've had good success in .223 bolt guns with Win 748 (ball) and IMR 4198 (stick). Generally speaking the recommended charge weights for IMR 4198 are about 20% lighter than the recommendations for Win 748.
One caveat: I chose those two powders because I was able to get screaming deals on sizable quantities. My rounds don't shoot bugholes but they're good for minute of squirrel out to about 200 yards.Comment
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Go ahead and laugh but consider 101 uses for old vibrators ... it works for balance beam scales, too.Comment
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Ive been running a RL550B for close to 30 years, been reloading .223 for 25 years. The only time I've had stick powder fail to drop fully is with too much lube on or in the neck. Never needed any graphite on the powder drop. I just adjust everything correctly and it runs. although I do take things apart and clean everything from time to time.Comment
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ok---I have adjusted the powder die up and down no fewer than 20 times. If there is a sweet spot where it doesn't spit out after the ram is lowered then my figures just aint that calibrated. I just have a hard time believing this is normal. I haven't tried the graphite option yet. ON a positive note. I shot 50 rounds through one AR today. They shot well!!Comment
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Height has nothing to do with bridging. Its a factor of the funnel slope, friction, hole size, and kernel size. Fix one of those and you fix the issue.Comment
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Well, more velocity (longer drop) as the powder hits the constriction means less chance it will bridge and clog. But that will likely only get you so far.
I haven't used 322, but load with IMR4064 quite often (which I suspect is one of the longer-grained powders out there, for my midrange calibers, anyway.) A tap or two on the funnel before pulling the case is the cheapest and easiest solution I've found (admittedly, this is probably easier to do loading single stage than on a progressive.)Comment
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I adjust my powder measure so that it just hit full stroke of the charge bar at full up position. there is no sweet spot and there is no fine tuning. it's either correct, under opening, or over opening (trying to anyway) which will bend parts.
Again there is no adjusting, only setup.
From Dillon's manual.
On rifle cases, the die should be adjusted so that the
powder funnel will contact the mouth of the case and then
fully actuate the powder bar, Fig. 20 & 21. These adjustments
are accomplished with a case in the shellplate and alternately raising and lowering the operating handle, while adjusting the powder die, Fig. 19. When properly adjusted, the
powder bar will be moved to its full rearward (open) position
by the case, Fig. 20 & 21, while the handle is at the full up
position. When you have determined that your adjustments
are correct, tighten the die lock ring.
Problem Two.
Erratic powder bar operation:
A. Turn the powder die (#20064) clockwise in one-eighth
turn increments. This will insure complete powder bar activation.
B. Extruded pencil type powders will not flow smoothly
through smaller sized powder funnels because of their
length. Another problem with extruded powders is getting
them into small necked cases. Many times these powders
will “bridge” across the case mouth and cause spillage and
erratic charges, There is no fast way of dispensing these powders and if you insist on using them in small mouthed cases
it is best to weigh every charge by hand. Modern ball type
powders will do for most reloading situations. These powders
will do everything the pencil powders will do, but without
this problem. Warning: Do not use I.M.R. pencil lead type
powder in cases smaller than .30 caliber.
Last edited by kcstott; 11-18-2019, 10:14 AM.Comment
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