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Hi guys. I'm brand new to reloading so forgive the beginner-type questions. I own a Howa 1500 20" heavy barrel .308 setup for some mid-range shooting. The barrel is a 1:10" twist. After doing some research I figured the best route to go would be 168gr Sierra Matchking bullets paired with IMR 4895 powder and CCI #200 primers. I got myself one of those cheapo Lee handloaders for the time being and started cranking out some rounds. I haven't tested them out yet, but is it safe to assume I have a decent round for good groups in the 300-500yd range? And if so, is there anything I can change in the mix to help lower the price per round while maintaining good accuracy at that distance? Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance!
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I should also add that I'm not trying to crank out hundreds of rounds at once and the Lee handloader has worked well for me so far (and has helped keep initial start-up cost low). This is more of a small side hobby vs. cranking out as many rounds as I can (for now, at least). -
If hand loads shoot well at 100 yards, they should shoot reasonably well at 300-500 yards.
Have you tested them yet? Where did you get your load data, how big is the powder charge, and how did you decide on that particular combination of bullet and powder charge (meaning did you work up a load or just pick numbers out of the load data source)?Comment
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Been gone too long. It's been 15 to 20 years since i had to shelf my guns. Those early years sucked.
I really miss the good old Pomona Gun Shows.
I'm Back.Comment
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RaffiD,
I like your enthusiasm. I was once a newbie at rifle cartridge reloading too. My suggestion is to start at 100 yards and work you way to longer ranges. Get some groups under your belt first.
Also, fit your new reloads to your chamber. I like IMR 4895 and the 168 grainers too. I have as of last year settled on Varget but nothing wrong with your choice. Have fun. Let us know how things progress.Comment
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Was it the lee classic loader and did you load brass fired from your rifle? I started with the classic loader and still occasionally use it for neck sizing and depriming before I use my press for bullet seating.
You may want to get the Lyman ez-trim rifle kit. It works great for trimmingLast edited by stand125; 12-17-2018, 5:18 PM.CALGUNS DICTIONARY "FLIER": when a shooter wants to turn a 1 inch group to a half inch group because he flinched.Comment
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Thank you all for your input. Forgot to mention I haven't been to the range since I started to reload, so I purchased new unfired brass casings to start off. I also have the Lee gauge/holder and case conditioning kit. Yes, I'm using the lee classic loader. I'm looking to hit the range this weekend and see how they do. Will post updateComment
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Here's a cautionary tale to reinforce baih's note.
I needed to work up a load with Hornady copper (GMX) hunting bullets for my .30-06. Hornady's 10th Edition reloading manual says you can use between roughly 45 and 56 grains of IMR 4064, so I loaded up cartridges from 46-55 grains in .5 gain steps and went to the range to chronograph them.
That's when things got a lot more interesting than I expected. I started seeing pressure signs at 52 grains and 3000 FPS muzzle velocity at 52.5 grains instead of 55 grains. No blown primers, no stuck bolts, but I understood what the data was telling me, which is that the powder and bullet combination in MY rifle performed differently than it did in Hornady's test rig. I use a 52 grain powder charge, which gives me sufficient muzzle velocity and accuracy without pressure signs.
I would suggest you start by loading a set of cartridges where the powder charges range from the recommended minimum to the recommended maximum in half grain increments. Shoot 'em and check for pressure signs. If you see a blown primer or can't get the bolt open easily, STOP. Chrono them if you have a chronograph or can borrow one. But at the very least make sure your verify that the combination of components as used in your rifle is safe.Comment
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RaffiD,
Welcome to the amazingly diverse new endeavor of cartridge reloading, with its multitude of variables.
50 yrs ago I began my reloading journey with an original Lee Loader kit in .308 Win. just like yours.
Please excuse fellow members that didn't bother to fully read your opening post. Those giving technical charge increment suggestions have likely never seen or used a Lee Loader.
At this point you are limited to whatever "charge" your included "dipper" volume is. At this time your only charge options are choice of powder "type" listed in the instruction sheet. IMR 4895 has been slinging bullets out of 308s since the 1950s and is a great choice.
In answer to your question.
Yes, you can expect good accuracy using the Lee Loader. Long ago a fella set a couple of world records using one. I knocked over a dandy of a blacktail buck at 350 yds with a one shot DRT kill. Ammo was made with my Lee Loader.I haven't tested them out yet, but is it safe to assume I have a decent round for good groups in the 300-500yd range?
Keep in mind that your kit can neck size only. Best to use cases previously fired in your given rifle.
Your "new unfired cases" should be GTG. But even they should be CHAMBER CHECKED before you load them.
Next tool you will need is a set of calipers. Harbor Freight has them on sale for $10 all the time. Plenty good for your needs of measuring case length and COAL.
After several firings, your cases will grow in length. You will need to trim them. The little hand operated Lee twisty trimmer which is caliber specific will suit just fine for starting out.
Caution, If you don't keep your cases trimmed to length. You will get to the point that the neck will grow into the chamber leade. And the case neck will then act as a "collet" and pinch the bullet inside the case when chambered. This creates unsafe "start pressure".
Load Safe, Have Fun.Comment
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Thank you JackEllis, pacrat and 17+1 for all your help. Like pacrat said, with the Lee Loader I'm limited to the volume of the dipper included in the kit, and that's what I've been using so I haven't yet needed to measure an exact charge load. I'm sure I'll get to that level eventually but I'm currently shooting less than 100 rounds of 308 per year so I figured the Lee Loader will be a good, inexpensive place to start my new hobby. Thanks for all the info and cautionary tips, I will report back once I get a chance to go try them out at the range.Comment
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I use a lot of Nosler Custom Competition 168's and 175's from Shooter's Pro Shop. The cosmetic "blemished" and over-runs sell for around $22-$23 per hundred, but drop to as low as $16 when on sale.
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Nice! Thanks for the heads up. I forgot to mention my current setup is running me $.97 per round for the first 100 rounds (not factoring in the Lee Loader and other "tools"). $.47 of that was the new unfired brass casings I purchased so I'm sure that will dramatically decrease as I reuse them 2-3 times.Comment
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