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  • Pitchfork
    Junior Member
    • Mar 2016
    • 22

    Headstamp Question

    I recently bought some 40 S&W Winchester bullets from sportsman's warehouse at a decent price so that I could use the cases for future reloads. the headstamp on them is "WMA". I hadn't seen that particular stamp before. Apparently it is used to identify Winchester military ammunition. I don't know if that's right or wrong but it makes sense. When I looked into it I found one individual that said he could not install primers in those cases because the primer pockets may have been crimped. So I put a couple of the once fired cases through the reloading process and had no problem. These cases seem to be softer than a similar Winchester case with the headstamp "WIN" or "Winchester".

    Anyone with any problems with these cases?

    UPDATE: I just finished reloading eighty more and didn't perceive any issues with "softness". They seemed ok.

    I've been reloading for over fifty years and do about three hundred each week so I have a pretty good "feel" for the process.
    Last edited by Pitchfork; 08-25-2018, 8:22 AM. Reason: More information
  • #2
    fguffey
    Senior Member
    • Mar 2010
    • 1408

    I do not know; I read on another forum 'WMA' stood for Winchester Military Ammo, A long time ago I was in Salt Lake, Utah visiting one of the local Flea Markets. While there I had the Opportunity to purchases a large branding Iron that read backwards 'NRA'. I spent too much time trying to convince the dealer the brand was never used by the national Rifle Association.

    I purchased it for $20.00, a few years ago I decided I would sell the brand at a local gun show. I placed it on a table; at the end of the first day I was asked by dealers next to me to put the brand under the table or take it home.

    It has to do with what we never knew or "What history forgot".

    I have cases that have clandestine head stamps, They also have markings that could off set the length of the chamber, I have always identified the cases as Browning Automatic machinegun cases, that story takes less time than the truth.

    F. Guffey

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    • #3
      kcheung2
      Veteran Member
      • Aug 2012
      • 4387

      If they're not crimped (it appears they're not), then business as usual. If they are crimped, then just 1 extra step. Lol about the person that didn't know how to deal with crimping.
      ---------------------
      "There is no "best." If there was, everyone here would own that one, and no other." - DSB

      Comment

      • #4
        J-cat
        Calguns Addict
        • May 2005
        • 6626

        WCC is made in one plant, WMA in another. It’s the same ammo.

        Comment

        • #5
          divingin
          Veteran Member
          • Jul 2015
          • 2522

          Originally posted by Pitchfork
          When I looked into it I found one individual that said he could not install primers in those cases because the primer pockets may have been crimped.

          I've been reloading for over fifty years and do about three hundred each week so I have a pretty good "feel" for the process.
          In fifty years of reloading, you've never dealt with crimped primer pockets? I find that surprising.

          Not a big deal, but it takes a tool and an extra step. If it's not too many, a pocket reamer is likely the easiest and cheapest. Next (in ease-of-use and ascending price) would be press mounted swaging kit. If you have a lot of brass to do, a standalone swager would be the way to go.

          Comment

          • #6
            Pitchfork
            Junior Member
            • Mar 2016
            • 22

            I didn't say I had a problem with crimped pockets. I found a post where someone else did. Personally I use only my own spent cases so there's no issue with crimps.

            Comment

            • #7
              divingin
              Veteran Member
              • Jul 2015
              • 2522

              Fair enough. I'm just saying it's not a big deal either way. If the primer goes in without a problem, well, then there isn't a problem. If it doesn't, either toss the brass or remove the crimp.

              Comment

              • #8
                rsrocket1
                Veteran Member
                • Feb 2010
                • 2768

                I use a case deburring tool to ream out the crimp because only a couple of cases are usually crimped in my batches. If it were 25% (like with .223), I'd batch sort them and use my RCBS primer pocket decrimper tool on a press.

                I know some people are paranoid about range pickups and classified ad brass sales, but 40 S&W is probably the most common brass up for sale that most people don't want. I bought a Large flat rate box full of 40 brass for $2/pound because the seller was going to simply take it to the scrap dealer. Quite honestly, I haven't even gotten to that box full of brass because I have about 3-4 gallons of 40 brass I rotate through already and I often come home with more brass than I shoot.

                Comment

                • #9
                  fguffey
                  Senior Member
                  • Mar 2010
                  • 1408

                  And then there was Hatcher, primer crimps did not drive him to the curb; he said he pulled his pocket knife out and gave it a twist.

                  F. Guffey

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    LateForDinner
                    Member
                    • Jan 2015
                    • 140

                    Headstamp guide

                    You guys seen this? Its a website with pictures for most every headstamp. Its way cool
                    Headstamp Guide   Welcome to the AFTE Headstamp Guide. We are always taking new submissions for inclusion in the HSG. […]
                    NRA Member, CRPA Member, NRA Members' Council, NRA Range Safety Officer

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