Is there non stick powder?

[17+1]

[tonyjr]

There are lots of ball type powders .
Me - I stick with hodgdon .
Varget is not only a stick powder , but also dirty .
When powder gets sticky or is in press powder holder to long - toss it .
[powder holder and power -
It not only eats the plastic , it changes chemically - you / it can not dump
right [ sticks together - lite load ] or start doing weird stuff in case if
not used quickly .
Not really a problem for me . Too many nephews and nieces reload
here and like to tell each other they blew it .
FYI - go on ebay and buy at least one extra powder holder .
I wiped out one with a baby wipe [ don't remember brand ] it clouded up .
One jumped on floor and broke [ my powder holders are dumped , then
wiped out and I have one for each powder [ cross contamination ]
I have a label maker and do 4 inches of powder label- HS-6 HS-6 HS-6
on each one and most of time each label is a different color to match
powder bottle . I E red , yellow , green

[rsrocket1]

If the powder is sticking to your powder measure hopper and it's an RCBS, likely you are using a double base powder. Titegroup is somewhere near 40% nitroglycerine and is notorious for eating away at some powder hoppers. My LnL AP hopper has turned a nice shade of smoke from double base powders and I rarely have the powder in the hopper for more than about an hour at a time.

My Lee powder measure is not affected by double base powders. I've read that 231 is usually not very bad at eating away at most powder hoppers.

I think there is a direct correlation of powders sticking to/eating away at some powder hoppers and the content of nitroglycerin. Single base powders and powders with low nitro content tend to eat away less at the hoppers that are prone to this.

I did a little experiment with powder coated bullets (a similar polymer) and various powders I had on hand and the results have been pretty interesting. The amount of powder stuck to the bullet bases was pretty directly correlated to the nitroglycerine content of the powder.

This was the result after 50 days of powder sitting against the bullet bases:

[tonyjr]

rsrocket1
Thanks
Probably another reason not to powder coat . I don't powder coat .
Years ago I tried it and it left " stuff " in the 50 AE .
1 in 10 of my / our guns are bolt / single action . I don't need to
add time for clean or want stuck actions .

[rsrocket1]

I don't powder coat for rifle either (at least not much, yet). I get perfectly acceptable performance with pan lubed gas checked cast bullets up to 2400 fps in .308. Zero leading, clean barrels, no need to clean the gun other than a wipe of the outside to get the fingerprints or hand marks off the bluing.

Powder coating in handgun calibers is the best thing for me. I used to tumble lube because it was so cheap and simple. 1 minute in a Ziplock bag and an overnight dry in the garage. It left a lot to be desired however because I would always get light leading in a few barrels even with properly fat bullets. With PC, the cost is nearly zero ($5/pound which is good for at least 10k bullets), no additional smoke compared to FMJ bullets and cleanup of the barrels consists of a single pass of a paper towel soaked with CLP which is optional. I've gone through 800 rounds without cleaning the barrel and it didn't seem to matter whether I cleaned it or not.

I shoot so often that my loaded rounds don't sit around for more than about 2 weeks. I do need to run an experiment where I store a box of PC bullets loaded with Tightgroup or Bullseye for several months and compare the velocities to some that I load the night before to see if the powder experiences any effects of interacting with the polymer.

[Metal God]

I don't mean to be a jerk maybe a lil.

Yes you did , I see nothing wrong with the question other then the wording . The OP knew what he wanted to ask but did a terrible job asking . I've done it many-O-time .

I read the OP to be asking if there is extruded powders in the same burn rate area as W231 and Titegroup . Yes there is . Almost all Vihta Vouri powders are extruded so N310 & N320 would be close to what the OP is looking for .

This may help https://www.reddit.com/r/reloading/c...aracteristics/

[ironhorse1]

A simple fix is to roll a piece of copy paper up and insert it all the way to the metal.

No more powder contact with the plastic. Doing this I can leave powder in the hopper with no sticking.

You do have to look from the top to see the powder but that is easy.

I ruined one hopper with Bullseye but RCBS sent a replacement.

Unless you have a metal hopper all plastic is subject to chemical degradation.

No contact, no problem.

irh

[Metal God]

After reading the OP and title a few more time . I think I was wrong in what he meant . oops