Cheap ways to check caliper calibration?

[robodeer]

I was trying to find something to check the calibration of my calipers. Any recommendations on items to check it wiith? I was thinking about the outer diameter of a ball bearing but maybe there are better options.

If all else fails, there's always the Mitutoyo gage blocks.

[mrbigsteel]

Feeler gauges:

https://www.homedepot.com/s/feeler%2520gauges?NCNI-5

[1957alex0]

Drill bit

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools/N-5yc1vZc1xy/Ntk-semanticsearch/Ntt-drill%2Bbit?NCNI-5&isSearch=true&Ns=P_REP_PRC_MODE%7C0

[9mmContagion]

Ball bearing is probably the easiest, most common, and cheapest method. Are they good quality calipers?

[robodeer]

Excellent suggestions all, thank you.

Ball bearing is probably the easiest, most common, and cheapest method. Are they good quality calipers?

I'm not quite sure how they stack up, actually. The make/model is called "iGaging ABSOLUTE ORIGIN". It seemed to have good reviews for consistency, etc.

[9mmContagion]

Excellent suggestions all, thank you.



I'm not quite sure how they stack up, actually. The make/model is called "iGaging ABSOLUTE ORIGIN". It seemed to have good reviews for consistency, etc.

[robodeer]

Good points. The prices for used Mitutoyos aren't too bad, either. Are gauge models more reliable than digital?

[Aeneas]

That model of the iGaging caliper gets excellent reviews. It seems comparable to some of the Mitutoyo models, but for less money. I have one and I really like it. To check accuracy, I purchased a Mitutoyo gaging block, and the iGaging Absolute Origin measures it the the exact size.

[9mmContagion]

Not necessarily. Most everyone uses digital now. I think the only dials we use are 12” because digitals are just so damn expensive and they’re rarely used. Depending on how close of a reading you’re looking to get. If it’s basic dimensions, get dial. Anything of importance, digital

[kcstott]

Speak for yourself. we use and have always used dials.

[kcstott]

I was trying to find something to check the calibration of my calipers. Any recommendations on items to check it wiith? I was thinking about the outer diameter of a ball bearing but maybe there are better options.

If all else fails, there's always the Mitutoyo gage blocks.

Dowel pins would be a cheep way to verify. but you should get a set of gauge blocks

[IEChuck]

What I don't like about dial calps is they are very intolerant of being dropped. It does not take much of a bump or drop at all to ruin a dial calp, whereas digitals are pretty tough as their counting system is not gear based. Cheap digitals aren't bad, they typically come with the wrong batteries. For items like calipers and calculators, silver oxide batts should be used as regular alkaline batts go dead fairly quick. For verifying, ebay is great for used blocks, pins or what machinists call "setting rings", these are used for checking the ID anvils of the caliper as they are the most vulnerable to damage. A gage block only has to be a few tenths of a thou out of spec to be
unusable for an aerospace shop, but fine for the home user.
Employed machinist, 20+ yrs.

[sonofeugene]

Feeler gauge is a good idea. It will be more accurate than drill bits which have a larger tolerance and are usually undersized a bit.

Remember that even the best calipers are only accurate to +/- 0.001". Though my Mitutoyo's are usually closer to +/- 0.0005".

[Fizz]

+ 1 on feeler gauges but unless the feeler gauges are also accurate they'll be off.

I've used the same cheap digital calipers for probably 8 years at this point. I think it cost $10 delivered.

It only gets whacky when the battery is low. But otherwise the results have always been repeatable and stands up to abuse. I don't know how the damn thing works, but you can cycle the jaws like you're shooting a mini gun and it will always return to a proper zero.

[kcstott]

What I don't like about dial calps is they are very intolerant of being dropped. It does not take much of a bump or drop at all to ruin a dial calp, whereas digitals are pretty tough as their counting system is not gear based. Cheap digitals aren't bad, they typically come with the wrong batteries. For items like calipers and calculators, silver oxide batts should be used as regular alkaline batts go dead fairly quick. For verifying, ebay is great for used blocks, pins or what machinists call "setting rings", these are used for checking the ID anvils of the caliper as they are the most vulnerable to damage. A gage block only has to be a few tenths of a thou out of spec to be
unusable for an aerospace shop, but fine for the home user.
Employed machinist, 20+ yrs.

Digitals suck due to batteries and an intolerance for machine oil, your dropping argument holds no value, if you drop any precision tool it's done, it needs to be recalibrated full range on top of being repaired, If thats even possible. digitals may be more tolerant of being dropped but i don't want caliper that have been dropped.