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For me, roll crimping is based on recoil, not powder speed. For ultra soft shooting revolver rounds like 2.7g Red Dot or Clays in a heavy gun like my Ruger Service Six, there is no need to crimp. For rounds that make the gun feel like it's shooting real stuff like 5g Unique, I put a good roll crimp on the cannelure or crimp groove for cast bullets. If you don't, by the time you shoot the 3rd or 4th round, you'll see the remaining bullets sticking out of the case and maybe even locking up the cylinder.
The 38/357 has so much extra volume that seating depth variations of several hundredths of an inch are insignificant with middle of the road charges. Not variations between rounds, but the difference between seating to the bottom of the cannelure vs center of the cannelure. So I would seat to the middle of the cannelure/crimp groove and test the rounds.
Honestly 4g Bullseye is not a super hot load so the difference won't blow up your gun. It's more important to get a good crimp which you'll get if you seat it as shown on the left bullet than on the right one in your last post (#9).
The 38/357 has so much extra volume that seating depth variations of several hundredths of an inch are insignificant with middle of the road charges. Not variations between rounds, but the difference between seating to the bottom of the cannelure vs center of the cannelure. So I would seat to the middle of the cannelure/crimp groove and test the rounds.
Honestly 4g Bullseye is not a super hot load so the difference won't blow up your gun. It's more important to get a good crimp which you'll get if you seat it as shown on the left bullet than on the right one in your last post (#9).
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