Reloading templates for Avery labels.

[allright]

I'm just getting into this deep rabbit hole named reloading, and yesterday, during one of my edumacational googling sessions, I ran across this post. It's a free download of templates (2x4") for reloaded ammo. They're free!

http://ultimatereloader.com/2010/08/12/print-your-own-ammo-box-labels-pdfs-included/

[JackEllis]

I tried using Avery labels and finally gave up. One problem is, the labels are a pain to remove if you want to change one for another. It takes acetone and some elbow grease to get the old ones off.

Yellow masking (painter's) tape marked with a sharpie is easier to use and it's effortless to remove, unless you leave it on forever or use a very old roll.

[RogueSniper]

That's neat. I have a lot of labels, I'll have to check if I have those 2"x4".

I tried using Avery labels and finally gave up. One problem is, the labels are a pain to remove if you want to change one for another. It takes acetone and some elbow grease to get the old ones off.

Yellow masking (painter's) tape marked with a sharpie is easier to use and it's effortless to remove, unless you leave it on forever or use a very old roll.

These are fine if you're applying them to factory ammo boxes.

Avery 2″ x 4″ sticky back labels (I have some Avery 8163 labels, many more options in this size are available).

I use a Sharpie on my Midway/Cabela's/MTM plastic reloading box. The ink is "permanent" but the box is chemical resistant so a quick wipe with alcohol/Hoppes 9/Breakfree and it's clean again. I was using grey duct tape but the ink smudges and so I stopped using it. Masking tape or address labels is very difficult remove from my plastic ammo boxes.

[67Cuda]

Thanks!

Just tried them, look great, but the spacing is a little off. Brought it in to Word to see if I can adjust it.

I suppose I could just print them on paper and scotch tape it to whichever container I use.

[kcstott]

Fine sharpe has worked for me for 30 years
MTM boxes.
Change load a little alcohol and sharpe goes away.

[OpenSightsOnly]

Keep it simple, leave the detail in your reloading book.

I use a masking tape as my label on MTM boxes.

Just note the brass lot, bullet weight, and powder charge.

[tonyjr]

I use avery address labels .
Caliber bullet weight , bullet type [ hp , bt -etc ] , powder charge .
Different calibers are different colors . Powder is in a different color .
An example would be --
38S [blue ] , 125 , HP , CFE [BLUE ] - HS6 [ GREEN ] - HP38 [ RED ] + powder charge .
If you do a lot of calibers , you can use different fonts , stars , hash tags and dollar
signs behind the caliber .
I / we do 15 calibers , so I print a page at a time . The pages go into the reloading
notebook and yes that is a lot of ammo boxes- I buy on ebay - prices are better for
10 . ]
I do keep detail info in reloading notebook - index tabs for each caliber .
The address label goes on the page + notes and who likes dislikes and why -
smelly powder , large groups , to hot [ kicks to much ] , gun got to dirty .
If you keep a notebook , don't be cheap- keep at least 2 .
I had a nephew loan one out , it never came back . One was on cleaning table and
coke got it , one jumped on floor .
I also put each page in a sheet protector , pages stay clean longer and are easier to
remove and replace

['ol shooter]

I use blue painters tape and a sharpie.

[Pardini]

If you can print a label, why bother with a template that has to be written on?

Just print a label that has all the pertinent data on it. No reason to hand write anything on the label, since you have a printer that will print all that info on the label for you. Then all that is required is to print the number of labels needed and stick them to the box. No pen or pencil required.

Also a new label will stick on top of an old one. No need to peel one off the box and use a solvent to stick a new label on top of a box. Simply stick a new label right on top of the old one. After they get 5 or 6 high grab a corner and rip the stack. Then stick a new label on top of what's left.

Been doing it that way for near 20 years with a Dynamo Label Printer connected to a PC. Prints off a roll of labels. Save the label, next time it's needed edit the details as needed, enter the quantity needed and click print.

.38 Special-Model 52
148 Grain Lead Wadcutter
2.7 Grains of Bullseye
Winchester Small Pistol Primer
Loaded 3/3/2018

[CCrawford]

This is my Avery label. I use the #5163 2" x 4" non-permanent labels.

Here is what it looks like (forum does not like extra spacing or tabs to space out the info).

Caliber: .45-70 Gov't Type: Handgun
Bullet: 300 gr. Hornady JHP
Powder: IMR 4198 36.5 gr.
Primer: Fed 210
Cases: Starline Nickel # in Box: 50 Pieces
Times Reloaded: 2
COL: 2.540" 1500 FPS in 16"
Date Loaded: 1-1-18
Ammo Box Number: 58 Notes: T/C 12" load
Manual: Hornady 10 Pg. 965

You may want more or less info, no wrong answer. You may want chrono data, ballistic coefficient, bullet model number, wind drift or drop dope, trim length, etc. But I think that there should be basic universal data that is helpful (base components and date for example).

Criss

[DueceMcGurk]

I print a generic label that fits in the lid of my clear MTM's. Sharpie fills in the detail. Switch labels easily for load development. I film each indoor session. Show the camera the label and shoot. The PDF labels here are great. Thanks.

[tonyjr]

I use the avery sheets . Putting inside the boxes , they fall out
and run away .
If you want to go cheap - go to post office and gab their over
night labels

[the86d]

I have some labels, but although too large, I tear them to size, use a sharpie, and place them on the plastic coffee tub. I don't mess around with little boxes, those go in the recycle bin to offset the lead I am putting in the berm.

[LuckyGuy]

Yep

Fine sharpe has worked for me for 30 years
MTM boxes.
Change load a little alcohol and sharpe goes away.

Ditto

[wpage]

+1 on sharpe direct