RCBS RC Supreme Neck sizing Feel

[DDRH]

Hello,
i'm new to reloading and have a question i cannot find online.

When Neck Sizing, after pulling the lever down, i can go a little further and the lever kinda locks into place. I guess the "feel" would be a "bump" then the lever locks into place.

Is this normal?

I tried neck sizing without locking the lever all the way down, measured outside diameter of the neck and it has shrunk.

Just worried that if i go all the way down something will get damaged.

I did that with a lee neck sizing die and i broke the die cap threads.

thanks!

[longrange1]

try running the handle without the die in then run it with just the die NO BRASS...if the handle locks without the die its something with the press...if it dont but locks with the die ONLY in then your die is screwed in to deep back it out until the handle dont lock.

[DDRH]

try running the handle without the die in then run it with just the die NO BRASS...if the handle locks without the die its something with the press...if it dont but locks with the die ONLY in then your die is screwed in to deep back it out until the handle dont lock.

Awesome! THanks!

Yes, without the die, the handle does not lock. With the die (no brass), it will lock.

Originally, i thought it was the O-ring on the Lee Collet Neck Die, but the Redding Neck Die (Series A) doesn't have an O-ring.

I broke the Lee Die, following Lee's instructions of one full rotation after it touches the shell plate...well my fault for pushing too hard.

For the Redding Die, i made a 1/4 turn, after touching the plate with the die.
I will back it off.


ONe other question...

for the Redding Series A Neck Die, i backed off the decapping pin so it's somewhat flush with the bottom of the die (looking at it from the side). The reason i do this is because i don't want to accidently damage the pin, but also, i have a handheld decapping tool.

Will this in any way affect neck sizing? any damage?

[longrange1]

i blew the top off a LCD(lee collet die)twice before i realized what was going on.

and no it wont hurt anything or effect sizing with the decapping pin up...i use a lee universal decapping die and cut off or remove the pin from my sizing dies.

[6mmintl]

Try only sizing 2/3 of the length of the neck, the double step will help center bullet to bore and increase accuracy

[DDRH]

Try only sizing 2/3 of the length of the neck, the double step will help center bullet to bore and increase accuracy

I will try to "Feel" for the 2/3 length. It's quite difficult because the Decapping pin only has a ball expander, so i would feel resistance then free movement and then more resistance when the neck gets sized.

With the Lee the resistance level was pretty constant. The only issue i had with the LCD, the mouth/neck seemed to get "wavey" and not flat. and there was quite a few "crimp" marks from the collet.

i blew the top off a LCD(lee collet die)twice before i realized what was going on.

and no it wont hurt anything or effect sizing with the decapping pin up...i use a lee universal decapping die and cut off or remove the pin from my sizing dies.

Thanks LongRange1! now i don't feel as bad breaking that die it was a pretty nice LCD too.


Also, i noticed with the Redding SEries A Neck Die, it would leave a shiny ring where the neck and shoulders meet. Is this OK?

I loaded one cartridge so far, to check my setup. and other than the noted issues (if they are issues), everything looks good.

Using 140gr Berger VLD Hunt/Match bullets

[longrange1]

If you are sizing the entire neck then yes the shinny ring is pretty normal.

Also if you were or are getting collet marks on your necks with the LCD then your die is set to deep...the LCD can only size the necks to the size of the mandrel being used.
If you want more neck tension you have to hone the mandrel down not make the collet squeeze the neck harder.

With that said the LCD is a fantastic die but to get the best use from it your necks should be turned or at least cleaned up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TexasJackKin]

You want to back the die off (Up in the press) so you can work to the solid stop of the press ie: as far as the handle will go. The 2/3 sizing of the neck is good advice, if neck sizing is your goal. But to be consistent you must work to a positive stop. Set up right, you can do 2/3 of the neck every time, you don't have to guess at it.

[DDRH]

You want to back the die off (Up in the press) so you can work to the solid stop of the press ie: as far as the handle will go. The 2/3 sizing of the neck is good advice, if neck sizing is your goal. But to be consistent you must work to a positive stop. Set up right, you can do 2/3 of the neck every time, you don't have to guess at it.

For 2/3 neck size, I'm guessing it would make sense to have a slight space between the shell holder and the die's bottom? Basically don't bottom out the die?

I'm using the Hornady spray oil and it seems to still leave marks on the neck with the Redding Die. possible i'm using too much force? Will try to post some pictures tonight.

[TexasJackKin]

For 2/3 neck size, I'm guessing it would make sense to have a slight space between the shell holder and the die's bottom? Basically don't bottom out the die?

I'm using the Hornady spray oil and it seems to still leave marks on the neck with the Redding Die. possible i'm using too much force? Will try to post some pictures tonight.

Yes, that would do it. Make sure you can chamber a round, as the shoulder will creep ahead a bit with each loading, and you will need to bump it back, depending on how hot you are loading. Or get a neck sizing die, that will allow you to bump the shoulder back, without sizing the whole case.

What specifically are you trying to accomplish by not full length sizing? There are reasons to only neck size, in certain circumstances, but most of the time, in my opinion you would be better off full length sizing.

Also, make sure you are not exceeding the specified case length.

[DDRH]

Yes, that would do it. Make sure you can chamber a round, as the shoulder will creep ahead a bit with each loading, and you will need to bump it back, depending on how hot you are loading. Or get a neck sizing die, that will allow you to bump the shoulder back, without sizing the whole case.

What specifically are you trying to accomplish by not full length sizing? There are reasons to only neck size, in certain circumstances, but most of the time, in my opinion you would be better off full length sizing.

Also, make sure you are not exceeding the specified case length.

originally I wanted to neck size for the usual reasons, accuracy, less work on the case for life. But also because I have about 200 new Norma cases which should be necks sized due to some dings at the mouth.

So for now the Norma brass is getting neck sized.

however, I ran into an issue where the 1X Hornady brass will not chamber. it measure 0.463 (6.5 Creemoor) at the shoulder so I ended up using the FL die. I set it up where there was 1/8" space from bottom of die to shell holder (eyeballing) to bump the should down. it then measure 0.4615 to 0.4620. It then chambered. hope I did this process correctly.

case is getting neck trimmed to about 1.9125-1.9135

I am a bit worried about the chamber being long...tried no-go and field gauge and failed both. PTG gauges.

[TexasJackKin]

originally I wanted to neck size for the usual reasons, accuracy, less work on the case for life. But also because I have about 200 new Norma cases which should be necks sized due to some dings at the mouth.

So for now the Norma brass is getting neck sized.

however, I ran into an issue where the 1X Hornady brass will not chamber. it measure 0.463 (6.5 Creemoor) at the shoulder so I ended up using the FL die. I set it up where there was 1/8" space from bottom of die to shell holder (eyeballing) to bump the should down. it then measure 0.4615 to 0.4620. It then chambered. hope I did this process correctly.

case is getting neck trimmed to about 1.9125-1.9135

I am a bit worried about the chamber being long...tried no-go and field gauge and failed both. PTG gauges.

I'm not familiar with 6.5 Creedmoor (that is I don't own or load for one) my book says the trim to length is 1.910, it sounds like you might have a long chamber that might warrant checking out.

Personally, I worry about rifle brass that is too long, getting pinched in the chamber throat. So, all I'm saying is be careful, everything could be fine, but from this distance it's hard to tell for sure.

[fguffey]

Hello,
i'm new to reloading and have a question i cannot find online.

When Neck Sizing, after pulling the lever down, i can go a little further and the lever kinda locks into place. I guess the "feel" would be a "bump" then the lever locks into place.

Is this normal?

thanks!

As you should be able to see no one has instructions for the RCBS press. And then there is that part about the 'cam over press', RCBS claims the cam over press is a bump press, they also claim a press that does not cam over is not a bump press. Many years ago a company made pliers, they named the pliers 'leaver lock' pliers. The pliers locked up but did not cam over. Another company made binders for chains, the binders were leaver locks, the binders did not cam over. The binders were very dangerous to use and unforgiving. Cam over can be measured by the amount of cam over, I have RCBS presses, none of my RCBS presses cam over, I am hard pressed to find a reloader on a reloading forum that has enough shop skills to determine if a press cams over. I have 12 Herter pressesm all of my Herter presses cam over meaning all of my Herter presses are bump presses.

"BUMP!? What does that mean? A bump press bumps twice when the ram is raised, it bumps onece on the way yo and again once on the way down.

Back to my Rock Chuckers, my Rock Chuckers go into a bind and lock up, when they lock up the ran is kicked back at the bottom and forward at the top. So? If you remove the case from the press and then move the handle up and down there is nothing to align the die with the shell holder. I suggest you remove the die and then run the ram up and down, to do that a reloader is required to remove his hands from his pockets and from the key board.

I have instructions from RCBS that cover presses, one set is for cam over presses, the other set is for non cam over presses. RCBS claims the cam over press is a bump press, reloaders believe 'bump; is something they do to the shoulder of the case.

F. Guffey

[fguffey]

Or get a neck sizing die, that will allow you to bump the shoulder back, without sizing the whole case.

I believe I am the only reloader that has that much skill, I am the only reloader that knows it is not possible to bump and or move the shoulder back with a die that has case body/shoulder support.

F. Guffey

[DDRH]

As you should be able to see no one has instructions for the RCBS press. And then there is that part about the 'cam over press', RCBS claims the cam over press is a bump press, they also claim a press that does not cam over is not a bump press. Many years ago a company made pliers, they named the pliers 'leaver lock' pliers. The pliers locked up but did not cam over. Another company made binders for chains, the binders were leaver locks, the binders did not cam over. The binders were very dangerous to use and unforgiving. Cam over can be measured by the amount of cam over, I have RCBS presses, none of my RCBS presses cam over, I am hard pressed to find a reloader on a reloading forum that has enough shop skills to determine if a press cams over. I have 12 Herter pressesm all of my Herter presses cam over meaning all of my Herter presses are bump presses.

"BUMP!? What does that mean? A bump press bumps twice when the ram is raised, it bumps onece on the way yo and again once on the way down.

Back to my Rock Chuckers, my Rock Chuckers go into a bind and lock up, when they lock up the ran is kicked back at the bottom and forward at the top. So? If you remove the case from the press and then move the handle up and down there is nothing to align the die with the shell holder. I suggest you remove the die and then run the ram up and down, to do that a reloader is required to remove his hands from his pockets and from the key board.

I have instructions from RCBS that cover presses, one set is for cam over presses, the other set is for non cam over presses. RCBS claims the cam over press is a bump press, reloaders believe 'bump; is something they do to the shoulder of the case.

F. Guffey

FGuffey, i think i understand what you're getting at. But...not trying to be mean to you, but i can barely understand what you're talking about.

What does any keyboard have to do with how the pull lever should feel?

So it's a "bump press" and suppose to lock up at the end? now that i leave a space between the shell holder and die, there's less of a "locked" feeling.

moving on from the feel (maybe i should start another thread)...I had trouble fitting the neck-sized 1X Hornady brass back in to the chamber.

I ended up using a FL die to bring the shoulders back to 0.462. For the new Norma Brass i only neck sized 2/3 for concentricity of the mouth. I also trimmed the necks down to about 1.9125" for both the Hornady1X and Norma.

What i was getting worried about was that the PTG Field gauge i had failed the HS test. however, i DID do this incorrectly. I left all components on the bolt (extractor, ejector). That said, with all 3 gauges the feel felt about the same when closing the bolt. I've also read that sometimes HS gauges aren't trust-worthy...so dunno what to think.

Before shooting any of my reloads, i'll probably shoot a few factory rounds and monitor the brass.