All about the brass

[Kwikvette]

As some of you know, I just took the step into reloading about a month ago. Buying the best has been my only option, and aside from a trimmer and tumbler, I'm good to go.

What I want to ask some of you (that handload for whatever caliber you shoot tiny holes with), have you found certain brass that you absolutely avoid?

I've only read about CBC having volume variances between cases and was wondering if there's another type I should be on the lookout for.

After I've learned to work up handloads in .223 for a few rifles, I'd like to handload for .308 as well. I'm slowly accumulating brass and I got to thinking, should I just buy new/once fired brass with matching headstamps or continue on with my range pick ups from the friendly shooters next to me.

[baih777]

If you want to shoot tiny holes. Use the same headstamp. PMC 308 is the only brass i have found does not last long. The primer pockets loosen up after 4 or 5 reloads. Hornaday the same problem.

If you can pickup range brass, keep collecting it. Its free. Might be able to trade it later.

[RiskyBusiness]

continue picking up range brass and sorting by headstamps. Once you have a good amount of one particular case then work up its own load separate from the others.

i've been wanting to work up a load of mixed headstamps just to see how much of a difference there is just to get by for plinking.

[17+1]

I have a bunch of Chinese norinco brass I've been going through. I've had a couple case mouth splits after just 2-3 firings. It's been good otherwise, besides some heavy tarnish on them due to the age. Nothing some time in the tumbler won't help though if you're really concerned about cosmetics. No crimps in the primer pocket so processing is easy.

PMC 223 is pretty thin brass, not the most durable in my experience. It's everywhere though and people give it away at the range. Some of it has crimped primers so I try to avoid that specifically because I don't want to deal with removing them.

[Kwikvette]

If you want to shoot tiny holes. Use the same headstamp. PMC 308 is the only brass i have found does not last long. The primer pockets loosen up after 4 or 5 reloads. Hornaday the same problem.

If you can pickup range brass, keep collecting it. Its free. Might be able to trade it later.

That's why I sorted the brass; figured I'd have groups of brass with matching headstamps.

I found that not only do I have a ton of LC brass, I have a separate pile of IMI brass (about 700 pieces).

There's some mixed stuff like PMC, Wolf, CBC, Winchester, Hornady, etc. I threw that stuff in with the LC.

continue picking up range brass and sorting by headstamps. Once you have a good amount of one particular case then work up its own load separate from the others.

i've been wanting to work up a load of mixed headstamps just to see how much of a difference there is just to get by for plinking.

That was my intention, good to see others confirming it.

I thought about going mixed as well once I find the right load.

I'll even buy some new Lapua brass and compare, but that's only once I've become proficient and worked up a killer load.

[bazineta]

In rifle brass, I've had some IMI that just had too much springback; it was annoying to size. Other than that, most rifle brass has been good to me, though I tend to use mostly LC.

In pistol, if I find an AMERC headstamp, I deposit it directly into the trash; truly awful stuff.

[pennstater]

Kwikvette,
When I use to shoot my .308 Win or .22-250 in some informal matches, 300-500 yards, I always used Norma brass, sometimes Winchester brass, but, usually Norma. Never took to Remington brass. Could not get good consistency from it. You want the best, look at Norma or maybe Lapua. Never tried Lapua, so really can't say.

[checkenbach]

I don't have too much experience with unsuitable rifle brass, but IMI, CBC, Extreme, and other off brand pistol brass are very hard to resize.
FN brass is stepped, decreasing case volume and possibly causing pressure issues. I toss it...

[longrange1]

pony up the cash buy lapua and leave the range brass for guys that dont drive vettes.

seriously ive shot rem,win,fed,hornady,nosler,peterson and lapua...

nosler in a 300WM 210g SMK at 2900fps averaged 10-12 loads...one batch 17 loads.
fed once fired same as above^^^2 loads
rem new pulled bullets to reload...same as above^^^ 5 loads
hornady..same as above shot 25 rounds ESs were so bad i came home and weighed with H2o one case was 13g different and several were 3-7g different i tossed it.

lapua in a 260rem 140g berger at 2825fps 28 loads
nosler,260rem 142g smk at 2810fps 19-20 loads
peterson in a 260rem purposely over loading to test...142g smk at 2900-2910 5 loads and still had tight pockets...never finished test as i switched to the 6mm CM

hornady in a 6mm CM 115g DTAC at 3020fps 17 loads
lapua,6mm CM 115g DTAC at 3020fps 12 loads now and still tight primer pockets.

[Dave626]

Try peterson brass, they have the tightest primer pocket I ever experienced. I have to prime it with the press. Primer won't seat flush with handprime

[J-cat]

All brands of brass will have variance in volume. I just acquired some commercial Winchester 308 that weighs 180+ grains without primer. Holds 2 grains less water than the 158gr stuff. The same goes for Hornady. They make 150gr cases and 187gr cases and every weight in between. Lapua- 169-174gr depending on lot. Lake City- 172-184gr. PPU-165-178gr. FC-174-180gr.

Sort by brand, then by exact headstamp, then by weight.

[Khromo]

Be careful with brass picked up at the range. You will get brass that reloaders left for dead. Meaning they figured it had been shot to the edge of safety. A new reloader will not always be able to identify the cases that are ready to separate.

Don't bother trying to "work up a killer load" with range pickup, even if the headstamps match. Working up a load requires an investment in time and money, and using shady brass will work, a little bit, but it won't work well. If you're going to invest the time and expense of serious load development, buy a box of Lapua, or at least Winchester.

It's great to try to save a buck in some areas, not so much in others!

[bazineta]

Be careful with brass picked up at the range. You will get brass that reloaders left for dead. Meaning they figured it had been shot to the edge of safety. A new reloader will not always be able to identify the cases that are ready to separate.

Excellent advice. This is one reason I like LC; the crimped (or staked) primer lets you know that 'once fired' is really once fired.

[9mmrevolver]

If you want to shoot tiny holes. Use the same headstamp. PMC 308 is the only brass i have found does not last long. The primer pockets loosen up after 4 or 5 reloads. Hornaday the same problem.

If you can pickup range brass, keep collecting it. Its free. Might be able to trade it later.

I agree. I picked up 300 black out cases last weekend and don't own one. First time I've seen it at the range. Usually those recycling bastastard are there to swoop in but not that day.

[Kwikvette]

Kwikvette,
When I use to shoot my .308 Win or .22-250 in some informal matches, 300-500 yards, I always used Norma brass, sometimes Winchester brass, but, usually Norma. Never took to Remington brass. Could not get good consistency from it. You want the best, look at Norma or maybe Lapua. Never tried Lapua, so really can't say.

I don't have too much experience with unsuitable rifle brass, but IMI, CBC, Extreme, and other off brand pistol brass are very hard to resize.
FN brass is stepped, decreasing case volume and possibly causing pressure issues. I toss it...

I'll make a note to see whether or not some brass is more difficult to size versus others.

pony up the cash buy lapua and leave the range brass for guys that dont drive vettes.

seriously ive shot rem,win,fed,hornady,nosler,peterson and lapua...

nosler in a 300WM 210g SMK at 2900fps averaged 10-12 loads...one batch 17 loads.
fed once fired same as above^^^2 loads
rem new pulled bullets to reload...same as above^^^ 5 loads
hornady..same as above shot 25 rounds ESs were so bad i came home and weighed with H2o one case was 13g different and several were 3-7g different i tossed it.

lapua in a 260rem 140g berger at 2825fps 28 loads
nosler,260rem 142g smk at 2810fps 19-20 loads
peterson in a 260rem purposely over loading to test...142g smk at 2900-2910 5 loads and still had tight pockets...never finished test as i switched to the 6mm CM

hornady in a 6mm CM 115g DTAC at 3020fps 17 loads
lapua,6mm CM 115g DTAC at 3020fps 12 loads now and still tight primer pockets.

Lol

I know that, depending on how hot I load my ammunition, will determine how many loads I'll get from my brass. But good to see the Nosler and Lapua really stands out.

Try peterson brass, they have the tightest primer pocket I ever experienced. I have to prime it with the press. Primer won't seat flush with handprime

Never heard of Peterson, but I'm always open to suggestions for quality brass.

All brands of brass will have variance in volume. I just acquired some commercial Winchester 308 that weighs 180+ grains without primer. Holds 2 grains less water than the 158gr stuff. The same goes for Hornady. They make 150gr cases and 187gr cases and every weight in between. Lapua- 169-174gr depending on lot. Lake City- 172-184gr. PPU-165-178gr. FC-174-180gr.

Sort by brand, then by exact headstamp, then by weight.

Stupid question; how would the weight of the brass itself affect the load if the load itself is identical between several pieces of brass IE same powder from the same lot, projectile, COAL, etc.

Be careful with brass picked up at the range. You will get brass that reloaders left for dead. Meaning they figured it had been shot to the edge of safety. A new reloader will not always be able to identify the cases that are ready to separate.

Don't bother trying to "work up a killer load" with range pickup, even if the headstamps match. Working up a load requires an investment in time and money, and using shady brass will work, a little bit, but it won't work well. If you're going to invest the time and expense of serious load development, buy a box of Lapua, or at least Winchester.

It's great to try to save a buck in some areas, not so much in others!

Thank you for the suggestion!

Fortunately, I'm a "regular" at the range I attend and there are plenty that hand me their once-fired brass. This way I know the brass hasn't been reloaded. It's the only way I accumulate my stash; that and the bucket where the brass goes gets picked up during every cease fire period.

I'll just take the suggestion of others and buy Lapua

The rest of the brass will be for plinking.

Excellent advice. This is one reason I like LC; the crimped (or staked) primer lets you know that 'once fired' is really once fired.

If the brass was reloaded, I take it the primer would pop out much easier?

I noticed that IMI and LC brass needed a bit more force to pop out the primers.