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Glued and Screwed Bench top

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  • SixPointEight
    Veteran Member
    • May 2009
    • 3788

    Glued and Screwed Bench top

    When I first built my bench, I used a single 3/4" plywood for the top, with a 2x4 "stud" in the center for some additional support. This was enough for the Lee Turret I was using. Now I've upgraded to a Dillon 550, and while I'm at it I was thinking of adding a second sheet of 3/4" plywood underneath my top one, to provide a little extra strength. Often I see people saying they "glued and screwed" their plywood tops together. The question I have is what glue to use? I've seen reference to regular wood glue, subflooring glue, and even Gorilla glue. My first guess is either wood glue or subfloor glue, as they're both meant to glue wood to other wood. Does any one glue provide any benefits over another?

    Additional question as to the process. Do you find a flat spot in the garage, spread the glue on one surface, then lay the other board on top with a bunch of heavy weight (brass and bullets) for 24 hours to let the glue set, then drill holes and attach to the bench frame? Or do you align the pieces, drill your holes, apply glue, then screw to the bench top and let the screws clamp the wood together?
    Last edited by SixPointEight; 03-23-2017, 2:01 PM.
  • #2
    chrometip78
    Member
    • Jul 2009
    • 301

    I used Titebond and two layers of subfloor plywood. Been great for about 10yrs and really stiffened up the whole bench.

    The more I used Gorilla glue, the less I like it for most projects. Really have to be able to clamp something together well to be a good option.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

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    • #3
      JackEllis
      Veteran Member
      • Nov 2015
      • 2731

      Titebond. Forget about the others.

      Comment

      • #4
        SixPointEight
        Veteran Member
        • May 2009
        • 3788

        I'm guessing Titebond 3? The strongest and longest working time

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        • #5
          TheZouave
          Senior Member
          • Nov 2016
          • 766

          As a professional woodworker, and having built multiple tables like this...

          Titebond I or II would be my #1 suggestion. Either will work fine. Use old gift cards to spread a thin, even layer, then locate your two boards, and screw from the middle outwards, it'll squeeze out excess glue that way.

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          • #6
            TheZouave
            Senior Member
            • Nov 2016
            • 766

            Titebond 3 is a different formulation than 1/2. I'd avoid it for this project. If you have access to it, titebond makes an Extend line, with a longer working time. But I wouldn't bother with III, personally.

            Comment

            • #7
              NukleusX
              Member
              • Jul 2016
              • 434

              Krazy glue. Lots of it.

              Comment

              • #8
                TheZouave
                Senior Member
                • Nov 2016
                • 766

                Sorry, krazy glue won't come anywhere near the strength of a properly done joint with wood glue. It'll eventually become brittle as the wood moves, and your working time will be under a minute.

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                • #9
                  SixPointEight
                  Veteran Member
                  • May 2009
                  • 3788

                  Originally posted by TheZouave
                  As a professional woodworker, and having built multiple tables like this...

                  Titebond I or II would be my #1 suggestion. Either will work fine. Use old gift cards to spread a thin, even layer, then locate your two boards, and screw from the middle outwards, it'll squeeze out excess glue that way.
                  This seems to support lining them up, pre drilling, then applying glue and using the screws to clamp it down. I ought to be able to handle that

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    TheZouave
                    Senior Member
                    • Nov 2016
                    • 766

                    Exactly. Use screws that have a short length of straight, unthreaded shank, so you get actual clamping force, you need the screw threads to not engage with the top surface to get the best results. If you do it right, you can remove all the screws afterwards, they won't be remotely necessary.

                    Originally posted by SixPointEight
                    This seems to support lining them up, pre drilling, then applying glue and using the screws to clamp it down. I ought to be able to handle that

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      NukleusX
                      Member
                      • Jul 2016
                      • 434

                      Originally posted by TheZouave
                      Sorry, krazy glue won't come anywhere near the strength of a properly done joint with wood glue. It'll eventually become brittle as the wood moves, and your working time will be under a minute.


                      Spoken like a true woodworker would speak to a plumber.

                      I was joking :P

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        SixPointEight
                        Veteran Member
                        • May 2009
                        • 3788

                        Originally posted by TheZouave
                        Exactly. Use screws that have a short length of straight, unthreaded shank, so you get actual clamping force, you need the screw threads to not engage with the top surface to get the best results. If you do it right, you can remove all the screws afterwards, they won't be remotely necessary.
                        I'm using 3" decking screws holding my plywood to the bench frame anyways. They happen to have a 3/4-1" unthreaded shank, so they should be perfect

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          NorCalFocus
                          Veteran Member
                          • Aug 2013
                          • 3913

                          Originally posted by SixPointEight
                          This seems to support lining them up, pre drilling, then applying glue and using the screws to clamp it down. I ought to be able to handle that
                          If you don't have one, get a pre-drill/counter sink bit. It will make your life a lot easier.

                          Comment

                          • #14
                            sofbak
                            Veteran Member
                            • Aug 2010
                            • 2628

                            If it were me, instead of adding another full layer on top I would look at reinforcing the area around the press from underneath. Angle iron that catches the existing bolt pattern or maybe a smaller ( 2' x 2'?) piece of plywood or 1/4" steel plate maybe.
                            Tire kickers gonna kick,
                            Nose pickers gonna pick
                            I and others know the real

                            Comment

                            • #15
                              TheZouave
                              Senior Member
                              • Nov 2016
                              • 766

                              Originally posted by NorCalFocus
                              If you don't have one, get a pre-drill/counter sink bit. It will make your life a lot easier.
                              Definitely this ^^. If you're using deck screws, you'll want one of these. I'd actually recommend a slightly shorter screw, a 1" smooth section, if you're putting together two 3/4" sheets, removes a third of you thread engagement, plus it'll blast out the other side. Which can be fixed easily with the screws removed and a sander, but that's extra work, versus just finding the right screws at the local HD/Lowes/hardware store. I personally really like pocket hole screws with a square drive and a pan head for the type of project you're doing, but deck screws work fine too.

                              My process is as follows:
                              Mark along edges the interval you want your screws at.
                              Strike lines using a chalk line or T-square.
                              Clamp surfaces together - I leave mine a little large so I can trim down later using a skilsaw with a guide...
                              Drill through top and 1/8" into bottom board -keeps screws from pulling up a little mounds of material and creating voids in your glue surface.
                              Separate top and bottom piece, quick pass with random orbit sander to knock down any high points.
                              Blow clean with compressed air.
                              Apply and spread glue - old gift cards work great for getting a relatively even coat on/pushing around glue.
                              Lay dowels along the surface so rest the top on while you get it positioned correctly.
                              Remove dowels, re-check position, then begin screwing down. Start from the middle and work your way out. An impact driver will make things go way, way better.
                              Let it dry overnight, back your screws out, and you're good to go!

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