Lee Classic Turret Setup

[wbunning]

You could use a loading tray:
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/11...nd-plastic-red ,
a primer turning tray will be useful if you don't use Lee's auto prime system : http://www.midwayusa.com/product/615...r-turning-tray

Are you getting the deluxe kit? If not, you need a manual. I believe the deluxe classc turret kit now comes with the auto drum piwder measure.

[Milsurp Collector]

You will probably want some reloading trays to hold your brass and rounds. I use two of these and they are made in the USA



I used a Lee hand priming tool since the 1980s. Maybe I wore it out but it was no longer seating primers deep enough so now I'm using the RCBS Universal Hand Priming tool https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Universa.../dp/B000KKB86A



An advantage over the Lee hand primer is that the RCBS Universal doesn't need different shell holders for each case. It uses spring-loaded jaws to hold the case.

I don't own and have never used a powder measure. I started out weighing every powder charge when I started handloading in the 1980s and that's the way I still do it. For me, the goal is not just to make ammo, but to make good ammo, better than the mass-produced ammo you buy in stores. By weighing every powder charge I can make very consistent ammo.

It is very satisfying to take an old World War II S&W Victory revolver with its rudimentary sights and shoot like this standing (no support)



with ammo that I hand-crafted for consistency.

Because I don't use a powder measure I don't have to worry about how well a particular powder that I want to use flows through a powder measure and how consistent the charges are, and my workflow makes it very unlikely I will double-charge a case.

I use the same all-metal Lyman 500 beam scale I bought back in the 1980s. Unfortunately, Lyman doesn't make them like that anymore, the new ones have a plastic base. When I saw an old all-metal Lyman 500 on Ebay I bought it to keep as a backup. If I was going to buy a new beam scale today I would recommend the RCBS 505 scale instead https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Model-50.../dp/B001AYWXEQ



I use the same Lee powder measure kit I bought in the 1980s https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision.../dp/B000N8OIE8



I use the same RCBS powder trickler I bought in the 1980s. This is the newest version https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-9089-Pow.../dp/B005Z7SVWW



And I use a Lee powder funnel https://www.amazon.com/Lee-LP90190-P...+powder+funnel



So what I do is place my primed and flared cases upside down in my MTM loading blocks. Because they are upside down it guarantees they are empty. I keep some of the powder I am working with in one of these Ziploc containers https://www.amazon.com/Ziploc-Twist-...s=ziploc+2+cup

I use a Lee powder measure scoop to throw an amount of powder that is close to but below the desired weight into the pan of my Lyman 500 scale. Then I use my RCBS powder trickler to bring the weight up to the exact desired weight. Then I take one of my upside down cases, turn it right side up, put my Lee funnel in the case mouth, add the powder charge, then place the bullet in the case mouth and seat the bullet in my same old 3-hole Lee turret press I bought back in the 1980s (the only press I have ever owned and it's still going strong). Doing it that way prevents double charging a case. Then repeat. Once you get into a rhythm it goes pretty quickly. If I am loading semiauto rounds then after I have seated all of the bullets I run the rounds through a taper crimp die.

If later on you just want to crank out lots of ammo on a progressive press that is the same quality as mass-produced ammo, that's fine, but in my opinion it is useful to have the tools and know-how to measure powder charges individually for those times when you want to make really consistent, accurate ammo.

[Calguns77]

A dozen of those crappy square ratchets and a couple of plastic indexing clamps from lee.

[orangeusa]

shell holder is included with your dies

The priming tool has different shell holders. It's stupid as hell, but true.

[RiskyBusiness]

You could use a loading tray:
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/11...nd-plastic-red ,
a primer turning tray will be useful if you don't use Lee's auto prime system : http://www.midwayusa.com/product/615...r-turning-tray

Are you getting the deluxe kit? If not, you need a manual. I believe the deluxe classc turret kit now comes with the auto drum piwder measure.

Buying everything separate as I found a manual pdf and using the trays that come in the pmc 45 boxes.

[RiskyBusiness]

You will probably want some reloading trays to hold your brass and rounds. I use two of these and they are made in the USA



I used a Lee hand priming tool since the 1980s. Maybe I wore it out but it was no longer seating primers deep enough so now I'm using the RCBS Universal Hand Priming tool https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Universa.../dp/B000KKB86A



An advantage over the Lee hand primer is that the RCBS Universal doesn't need different shell holders for each case. It uses spring-loaded jaws to hold the case.

I don't own and have never used a powder measure. I started out weighing every powder charge when I started handloading in the 1980s and that's the way I still do it. For me, the goal is not just to make ammo, but to make good ammo, better than the mass-produced ammo you buy in stores. By weighing every powder charge I can make very consistent ammo.

It is very satisfying to take an old World War II S&W Victory revolver with its rudimentary sights and shoot like this standing (no support)



with ammo that I hand-crafted for consistency.

Because I don't use a powder measure I don't have to worry about how well a particular powder that I want to use flows through a powder measure and how consistent the charges are, and my workflow makes it very unlikely I will double-charge a case.

I use the same all-metal Lyman 500 beam scale I bought back in the 1980s. Unfortunately, Lyman doesn't make them like that anymore, the new ones have a plastic base. When I saw an old all-metal Lyman 500 on Ebay I bought it to keep as a backup. If I was going to buy a new beam scale today I would recommend the RCBS 505 scale instead https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Model-50.../dp/B001AYWXEQ



I use the same Lee powder measure kit I bought in the 1980s https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision.../dp/B000N8OIE8



I use the same RCBS powder trickler I bought in the 1980s. This is the newest version https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-9089-Pow.../dp/B005Z7SVWW



And I use a Lee powder funnel https://www.amazon.com/Lee-LP90190-P...+powder+funnel



So what I do is place my primed and flared cases upside down in my MTM loading blocks. Because they are upside down it guarantees they are empty. I keep some of the powder I am working with in one of these Ziploc containers https://www.amazon.com/Ziploc-Twist-...s=ziploc+2+cup

I use a Lee powder measure scoop to throw an amount of powder that is close to but below the desired weight into the pan of my Lyman 500 scale. Then I use my RCBS powder trickler to bring the weight up to the exact desired weight. Then I take one of my upside down cases, turn it right side up, put my Lee funnel in the case mouth, add the powder charge, then place the bullet in the case mouth and seat the bullet in my same old 3-hole Lee turret press I bought back in the 1980s (the only press I have ever owned and it's still going strong). Doing it that way prevents double charging a case. Then repeat. Once you get into a rhythm it goes pretty quickly. If I am loading semiauto rounds then after I have seated all of the bullets I run the rounds through a taper crimp die.

If later on you just want to crank out lots of ammo on a progressive press that is the same quality as mass-produced ammo, that's fine, but in my opinion it is useful to have the tools and know-how to measure powder charges individually for those times when you want to make really consistent, accurate ammo.

Thanks for the suggestions sounds like you've really found a comfortable set up for yourself and stuck to it.

[nedro]

You'll want/need a Hornady Comperator for bumping back the shoulder.

You will definitely want to get 5lbs of Stilly's large SS pins for your tumbler.

You will want, not need, a Fankford Arsenal Case separator for separating the cases from the pins after tumbling. If you have a 5 gallon bucket, just get the top portion of the separator, it's much cheaper. Might as well also get the Magnetic pick up tool for the pins.

For the 50 round reloading blocks, I went with the Lyman, Bleacher Blocks. I couldn't imagine ever going back to the flat blocks after using the bleachers. No more stabbed fingers.

Depending on the brass you use, you'll want to get the RCBS swaging tool combo. Especially if you are using Federal brass.

Did I mention getting 5lbs of SS pins from Stilly? Yes, it will save you aggravation on a level that you have not yet experienced.

Oh ya, one more thing.
Where you gonna put all those freshly made rounds?
You will need reusable cases for your rounds.

Don't worry, this is only the beginning.

[drift_master87]

I started off with the LTP, with the Lee Auto Disk powder measure for powder. Worked fine for a bit, but I've grown to dislike it. I recommend saving up and eventually buying a RCBS Chargemaster or even the Hornady Lock n Load Auto Charge Powder Scale

http://www.midwayusa.com/s?targetLocation=%2F_%2FN-0%2B9211%3FNp%3D2%26Nr%3DAND%2528p_visible%253A1%252Ccustomertypeid%253A1%2529%26Nrpp%3D48%26Ntpc%3D1%26Ntpr%3D1%26Ntt%3Dpowder%2Bmeasure&userItemsPerPage=48

[ihasacookie]

https://inlinefabrication.com/products/case-ejector-for-the-lee-classic-turret-reverse-rotation

This little invention here is something I do not regret adding to my line up and can recommend to all LCT owners. Essentially removes the extra step of reaching over and removing the completed cartridge from the shellholder by auto-ejecting it for you which translates to less time invested in per completed round.

As for the priming system on the LCT, it is quite finicky but once it dials in, it is smooth sailing from there. Ive never had an issue with it in over 7k 9mm rounds. YMMV.

[Squidward]

Maybe an RCBS Primer Pocket Swager so you can remove the primer pocket crimp if necessary.