308 reloading components

[DragonDJ11]

I have purchased my new to me Savage 99 in 308, and I am going to be using her for some range fun and some hunting. So I am going to be working up loads for the 100-200 yard range to dial her in as much as possible.

With that in mind, I have been reloading 45 and 40 so the whole process is not new, and I have not gone back and re-read anything about loading for rifle rounds in the manuals YET. I am just hoping that you guys can advise as to the next parts I will need from what manufacturer.

I have a Lee Turret Press
Lee Balance Scale and an Electronic Scale (Need to get a good balance Scale).
I have all the other basic tools for loading my pistol rounds

I know I need Dies. Is there a case trimming die or just the tool?
Powder Trickler?

And I am not sure on anything else

[baih777]

Most likely you have not needed lube for your pistol brass. 308 cases you will need a case lube. Make sure you lube the inside of the case neck. A stuck case in a die is a real pain to get out.

[sbsyncro]

308 reloading components

I have the same setup and also reload 308 in addition to 7.62x39, 30-30, and 270. I use the auto drum powder measure from Lee. It is usually within .1 grains once dialed in (which can take 20 drops or so). You may want to consider the 4 die set so you can neck size only once your brass is fire formed (separate your own fired brass from range pick up). If you pick up range brass or shoot milsurp you might also want to get a primer pocket swaying tool. Case prep on bottle neck rifle rounds is a lot of work and my next purchase will be the Frankford Arsenal "platinum case prep center". I've been using the Lee Quick Trim Deluxe and I really don't like it or recommend it.

With the F.A. Case prep, you can get primer pocket reamer (for removing military crimps) that screws into it.


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[bazineta]

Things you'll need in addition to what you've needed so far for pistol:

- Dies (many fine choices from all the manufacturers; I like the Redding National Match set for 308)
- Trimmer (I like the Wilson; any trimmer is fine IMO)
- Chamfer / Debur tool (any manufacturer)
- Lube (Dillon, Hornady One-Shot, Redding Imperial Sizing Wax, etc.)
- Case gauge (Wilson)
- Powder trickler (I like the Redding)

Bottlenecked rifle cases are a bit more involved. While you can just use your pistol barrel to see if the cases chamber properly, that's at best a PITA for rifle -- get a case gauge.

If you're going to use military brass, then you'll need a swaging tool such as the Dillon 600 and ideally a set of primer pocket go/no go gauges. Non-military brass, no need.

[DragonDJ11]

Nothing like learning new things. lol

Not going to use military brass at least not in the beginning.

[Jjwisled]

Congratulations on your 99 I'm sure you'll love it. Be careful you might need to get another haha. I've got one in 308 too I'd be happy to share my load data with you.(nothing fancy) I use the Lee manual for data. I also use the Lee case trimmers and really like them. No measurements just trim and debur and your good to go. In fact everything I have is Lee haha. Enjoy your new gun

[DragonDJ11]

I wouldn't mind hearing what's worked for you. Obviously every one will be different, but starting spots are good. What bullets and such. Thanks

[jimmykan]

Trimmer: Little Crow Gunworks - "World's Finest Trimmer"
Costs $70 and is cartridge specific.

Dies: MidwayUSA - Lee RGB 2-Die Set 308 Winchester
Costs $20 and works just fine for me. Until you get into the match-grade seating dies with bullet guide sleeves and micrometer adjustment, I don't really see a difference in quality between the various brands of regular grade dies.

If you load 45ACP, then you already have the correct 308 Winchester shell holders for your press and priming tool. (Lee/RCBS #2, if I'm not mistaken).

Case headspace gages are nice to have, but not necessary especially if you are reloading for one rifle only. Just resize the brass enough so that it chambers smoothly. The less you resize, the less the case stretches, and the less often you need to trim if at all.

[DragonDJ11]

Thanks all. Great info to sort through and utilize to get me set up

[divingin]

If you load 45ACP, then you already have the correct 308 Winchester shell holders for your press and priming tool. (Lee/RCBS #2, if I'm not mistaken).

I thought the same, up until I tried to put some 308 through my Hornady AP progressive press. Apparently, 308 and 45ACP, in the Hornady world, use different shell holders and plates.

While I bought the 308 shell plate, I've largely given up on progressive loading for 308, as my measure won't meter what I consider an acceptably consistent drop.

jky

[nedro]

If you are working up accurate loads you will need, not want a Hornady Comarator for shoulder bumping.
You will need a Hornady Bullet comparator for the ogive. This is for the initial bullet jump from the cartridge to the Rifling lands.
You will need a Chronograph to measure velocity and muzzle energy.
To work up accurate loads, you will need to throw away your powder droppers unless they are just to get the loads close. Therefore, you will need a powder trickler.
I am using a Lee turret press right now for my 6.8SPC loads and know that I must get a single stage press if I want any real accuracy. Shoulder bumping is simply maddening with the slop in the Lee turret press.

[someoneeasy]

Since you're using the Lee Turret Press, you can set up the turret to process your brass with the lee quick trim die http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/324...308-winchester and the lee deluxe power quick trim http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/416...FQJrfgodCzID8w. along with a power screw driver.

Set your resizing die in one hole and the quick trim die in the next hole and you can resize and deprime then trim, chamfer, and debur in another.

Just depends on how much you want to spend on trimming. If you go this route, there's less handling of the brass vs using a prep center or a separate trimmer.

[DragonDJ11]

Since you're using the Lee Turret Press, you can set up the turret to process your brass with the lee quick trim die http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/324...308-winchester and the lee deluxe power quick trim http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/416...FQJrfgodCzID8w. along with a power screw driver.

Set your resizing die in one hole and the quick trim die in the next hole and you can resize and deprime then trim, chamfer, and debur in another.

Just depends on how much you want to spend on trimming. If you go this route, there's less handling of the brass vs using a prep center or a separate trimmer.

This may just be the way I go

[bazineta]

I wouldn't mind hearing what's worked for you. Obviously every one will be different, but starting spots are good. What bullets and such. Thanks

Ok, I'm game, this might turn out to be a fun thread. Let me start with trimmers, and why I use what I do.

Trimmers are something that it seems that every manufacturer does a decent job at; I don't think I've seen one that's been just complete garbage. There are some very neat designs, such as the Forster, WFT, etc.

I use a Wilson for a couple of reasons.

First, with the micrometer option and carbide cutter head that Sinclair offers as upgrades (they have a package deal that also has a very nice stand, highly recommend looking at that), it's by a considerable margin the most consistent trimmer I've used -- it's always within about half a thou, and I can't say the same for others that I've tried. Cuts like butter, too.

Second, and to me probably the overlooked advantage, is the fact that it requires case holders. Now, some would regard this as a disadvantage; I regard it as a killer feature.

The thing is, your hands are in general not well suited to firmly holding something as small as a case, repetitively. There's not a lot of surface area and you have to grip it fairly tightly as a result. Chances are good, at some point, you're going to be saying to yourself, wow, the thumb on my non-dominant hand is pretty sore at the joint, gotta watch that.

Now, put that same case in the holder that the Wilson trimmer uses, and you massively increase the gripping surface. It becomes easy to hold, and you don't need to grip firmly. Things like the post-trim chamfer, and, if you do so, primer pocket uniforming, become much easier and less tiring.

So typically, I'll put it in the holder, trim it, chamfer it and uniform the primer pocket while it's still in the holder; much faster and easier on the hands.

[someoneeasy]

a lot of good advice, but if you're only shooting 100-200 yards for range fun and eventually some hunting, most of this is going to be overkill. Published loads should be good enough for you. I'm not suggesting wreckless reloading practices, but if your brass has a tolerance of +/- .005 or if your charge weight varies by +/- .05 grains, it won't be the end of the world.

If your goal is precision, by all means, take all the extra steps and buy match components and weigh and separate everything, but if your plan is for some range fun, you're going to spend a lot of extra time for nothing.

but that's just me