LnL AP cart. feeder mods

[Victor Cachat]

I've had trouble with the LnL case feeder for various reasons.

Dropping cartridges and the pivot bushing were two problems.

And recently I noticed flex in the pivot body was causing missed cartridge drops.

I saw some You Tube vids where people fixed the cartridge drop issue and I was about to turn my own drop tubes on the lathe when I discovered that 1/2" CL 315 PVC pipe slips over the end of the drop tubes.

Easy to work with and cheap fix.

Scratching up the outside of the bushing and the inside of the pivot body hole for the push rod, then using polyurethane glue fixed the bushing problem.

And a block of anything like wood, aluminum, or fiberglass board will keep your pivot body from rising when you apply pressure to it.
I just drilled one hole through the pivot body to hold it in position.

I'm sure none of this is new to those that have tinkered with their own, or looked at enough videos, but it doesn't hurt to repeat it.

[9mmepiphany]

will keep your pivot body from rising when you apply pressure to it.

Another way to keep the pivot body from raising is to lower the push rod. I have the same problem when I first assembled my case feeder and lowering the rod solved it.

Just glancing at your picture, it looks like your rod is adjusted too high. The only contact between the rod and the pivot block should be the poly ball.

While I haven't had cases, 9mm, .40, .38, jumping off when dropping, I've seen friends use cut down shotgun shells as you've used the PVC pipe.

If you're gluing the bushing in place, what do you do when you change calibers?

[Victor Cachat]

Another way to keep the pivot body from raising is to lower the push rod. I have the same problem when I first assembled my case feeder and lowering the rod solved it.

Just glancing at your picture, it looks like your rod is adjusted too high. The only contact between the rod and the pivot block should be the poly ball.

While I haven't had cases, 9mm, .40, .38, jumping off when dropping, I've seen friends use cut down shotgun shells as you've used the PVC pipe.

If you're gluing the bushing in place, what do you do when you change calibers?

The rod is at max length because I took it apart to do the work and it has loctite on the threads, so I need a pliers to turn it (it was always coming loose).

The bushing I glued was the black plastic one for the rod.
It would pop out and the rod would not rotate the pivot enough.

[9mmepiphany]

Ah, you're talking about the Push Rod Bushing

It almost sounds like you might need a new Pivot Body...which you might have over tightened when mounting to the Feeder Stand (over tightening will sometimes cause the Body to flex)

It it were mine, I'd give Hornady CS a call to see what they can suggest

[rmi63]

I had problems with that pivot body moving. I kept tighting the Bolt and soon realized that the support tube was getting indented. Turns out that the pivot body where the nut is was all mangled and allowing it to move. Hornady sent me a new one and it has been working great since.

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk

[Victor Cachat]

Ah, you're talking about the Push Rod Bushing

It almost sounds like you might need a new Pivot Body...which you might have over tightened when mounting to the Feeder Stand (over tightening will sometimes cause the Body to flex)

It it were mine, I'd give Hornady CS a call to see what they can suggest

I had problems with that pivot body moving. I kept tighting the Bolt and soon realized that the support tube was getting indented. Turns out that the pivot body where the nut is was all mangled and allowing it to move. Hornady sent me a new one and it has been working great since.

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk

I noted that the part that butts up against the feeder post looks like it has been pulled out of shape, but the post looks flat.

I would expect that to be a failure point.

Works fine now, but not a bad Idea to ask Hornady.

[9mmepiphany]

I noted that the part that butts up against the feeder post looks like it has been pulled out of shape, but the post looks flat..

When you note some movement/flex between the two parts, the common temptation is to tighten the bolt...but this can be easily overdone.

The pivot block is meant to be held in place more by leverage than by friction. Once the nut has been snugged up in it's recess, the bolt only needs to be tightened a bit past finger tight. The legs of the block bearing against the post are what keep it from turning...you can actually "fit" the legs slightly to the post if you are OCD about it