Scale recommendations?

[SixPointEight]

Accuracy is based upon your method of calibration. If you don't have check weights that are traceable to some standard, as in NIST F standards. All you are doing is building loads to some arbitrary number, these are minimum standards for fine weights, I'd suggest getting a grade of check weights that is accurate to half of your discernible scale. so if the scale is claimed to be accurate to +/-.1 gr then I would want a check weight that was X.X grs +/-.02gr That means a 20 gram weight in the F2 class, Or ANSI class 4. Most check weights that are sold with the reloader brands of electronic scales come with NIST class F check weights or class 7 which are no good unless you buy the very smallest of weights

get a couple of check weights that has a cert with them. and verify you scale before each use. 1/2 and 1/4 of max scale capacity. say a 10 gram and 20 gram class F2 weight.

Since you'll only be weighing powder to verify a setting i suggest you cycle the powder drop three times then weigh three separate drops to get a minimum average. then check every ten rounds and if everything is staying consistent you can loosen that check to every 20-30 50 or so rounds,

I have the confidence in my equipment that I check the powder drop as I described, then check the tenth round and ever ten rounds for 30 rounds, then I just load till i run out of something. Never had an issue. but I'm pretty aware of whats going on and stop when I do have an issue, then I'm sure to pick up exactly where I left off.

Do you use a set of check weights to calibrate to your desired charge weight? For example 42.5 grains. Or do you tare and then just calibrate to 1 specific value each time? Half the scale max measurable? 100% of the scale max?

Particularly for a beam scale

[RandyD]

contact scott parker if you want the most accurate/repeatable beam scale you can get.

I second the recommendation of using Scott Parker. He is a regular poster on 6mmbr.com, which where a lot of benchrest shooters post, and he appears to be well thought of on that site. He tunes and calibrates scales for a reasonable price. I believe he even sells scales. I sent him my RCBS 10-10 scale, and it took him a couple of weeks to tune and calibrate the scale. I forgot the price he charged. The last phone number I had for him was 661-364-1199, and I believe he is in the Bakersfield area.

[longrange1]

Yep great guy and does awesome work...I've had mine for about 7yrs now and it's still dead nuts with the check weight he sent


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[tonyjr]

I have 2 or 3 beam and 3 or 4 digital . 2 sets of weights .
The digital are always plugged in and are checked with 3 or
4 weights 2 Least twice .
I go 5 powder drops after I get the right powder drop .
Take a finished cartridge and weight it , then every once
in a while check with the just finished one- not really close ,
check powder drop again .
I do minimum loads / light loads - just punching paper .
We seldom do over 200 of one caliber .
There are a few of us and someone will say - my turn - go
clean your gun [ s ]
FYI - anything over the 38 special - IE , 357 , 44 or 50 - the
pills can throw off cartridge weight .
If you use a beam , turn it at 90 degrees from you - that way
you get more constant readings .

[AandO]

What's not to like about the RCBS 1500 scale? 10 second warm up and off you go. Accurate as all get out and reliable too.
.
Go Digital, it's 2017 not 1917
.
Added bonus is that you already know this firsthand. Plus you get the rebate . . . . .

[iMigraine]

The gempro 250 is good. It drifts but not enough to matter, especially if you have a good set of check weights which you need to have anyway.

My Gempro 250 was terrible with drifting. I mentioned on this or other forum that it drifted more than an Asian in a Honda Accord. Sent it back under warranty. A lot of people swear by them but I didn't have that experience. Don't think I ever rechecked the replacement model since. Guess I should.

[milotrain]

Did you leave it on and running 24/7? It seems that it's best to always leave it on.

Next balance will be an AND FX-120i

[TomReloaded]

If you're already planning on not weighing often, I don't think accuracy matters much. The scale just needs to verify youre in a safe range, but that's it.

That's how I weigh too, but I know my dispenser is throwing .2 off on a good day and I'm good with that. Loading min loads, with .2gr variance anyway, a 0.05gr scale is useless for me.

In short, any cheapo grain scale is good for that purpose.

[mjmagee67]

I have an older RCBS Range Master 750 and it's been great. I've used it for 6 years and it works well, it's fast, and it's been very consistent. When I got it, I got some little screws and nuts and weighed them and marked them with the weights. I have checked to scale over the years with the screws and nuts and the scale has been spot on. It really has never been off. I can say with out a doubt the scale is very consistent.

If I work a load up and my scale says it's 7.6 gr I want to know that 5 years later my scale will still measure 7.6 gr the same.

I prefer digital scales because I can place an empty case on the scale and tare it. Then fill it with powder and weigh it in the case.

[Carcassonne]

I am finally getting ready to set up my Dillon 650 (after only 4 years of collecting dust), and I would like to get some advice on a powder scale, since my RCBS Chargemaster seems to have gotten lost in the move. I am thinking the packers might have taken a liking to it.

I don't need the scale to dispense powder, but I want it to be accurate enough that I can trust it. Since I will not be weighing that often, is it better to get a mechanical scale like the RCBS M1000 so I know it is accurate?

I suggest a mechanical beam scale.

Mechanical beam scales will always work. Electronic scale need power (batteries). It sucks when your electronic scale takes a dumb while you are reloading. My electronic scale starts giving erratic numbers when the batteries get low. I have to pull out my mechanical scale and double check when that happens.

An electronic scale is nice to have because you can tare the weight with an empty case, and then weigh it with powder to get just the charge weight. It is easier than dumping it in a pan then dumping it back into the case.

[JagerDog]

Accuracy is based upon your method of calibration. If you don't have check weights that are traceable to some standard, as in NIST F standards. All you are doing is building loads to some arbitrary number, these are minimum standards for fine weights, I'd suggest getting a grade of check weights that is accurate to half of your discernible scale. so if the scale is claimed to be accurate to +/-.1 gr then I would want a check weight that was X.X grs +/-.02gr That means a 20 gram weight in the F2 class, Or ANSI class 4. Most check weights that are sold with the reloader brands of electronic scales come with NIST class F check weights or class 7 which are no good unless you buy the very smallest of weights

get a couple of check weights that has a cert with them. and verify you scale before each use. 1/2 and 1/4 of max scale capacity. say a 10 gram and 20 gram class F2 weight.

Since you'll only be weighing powder to verify a setting i suggest you cycle the powder drop three times then weigh three separate drops to get a minimum average. then check every ten rounds and if everything is staying consistent you can loosen that check to every 20-30 50 or so rounds,

I have the confidence in my equipment that I check the powder drop as I described, then check the tenth round and ever ten rounds for 30 rounds, then I just load till i run out of something. Never had an issue. but I'm pretty aware of whats going on and stop when I do have an issue, then I'm sure to pick up exactly where I left off.

Well...Im going to disagree. The numbers are hardly arbitrary. I've never seen a halfway quality scale in good order be off any significant amount if properly zeroed.

NIST traceability is for lab work where you might have to show your data in court, etc. It's similar to a chain of custody.

A couple "check weights" known to the operator is plenty to verify there's not some malfuction (like grit on the knives) with the mechanics. I've got a paper clip a penny a nickle and a bullet. I verified their weight on a very high accuracy lab scale, but in reality they just need to repeat from use to use.

If it's convenient and one wants to use weights with mfg assigned values have at it, but it's not neccesary for our purpose.

[pacrat]

I still use a Lyman/Ohaus M-5 from the early 1960s that I got used in 69. Still as dead on as when I got it. I see no reason to go digital. I'm a single stage loader. Not a production load cranker.

Even with measuring every load when doing rifle. Proper technique of Drop, Weight, Charge, Seat. I rarely have to wait for scale to settle. When you place the pan on the scale, hold a finger under it at _0_ for 2 seconds. Gently move finger without bumping pan. By the time you seat the last round measured. You are ready to drop and go again.

It helps if you are a little smarter than a magnet.

[DarkKing]

I use a Frankfurt Arsenal scale.
.it comes with a standardized weight and no matter if I use mechanical or the scale it weights to the standardized weight of 50.

So I've been inclined to trust it and I use the weight occasionally to ensure drift isnt happening if I'm weighing a lot of charges but I normally only check first 10 then spot check every 50.