How much does brass brand matter?

[prk]

I've just bought a 6.5CM Savage. This will be the most expensive ammo I shoot, so I'm considering taking up reloading for the first time. How selective should I be with my ammo purchases, considering I will want to re-use all brass? For example, is Federal Fusion a good candidate? The price on Palmetto seems good. Thanks in advance for any input.

[iMigraine]

If you're bench rest competing, then consistency is everything. For general shooting, mixed brands of brass are fine.

[Divernhunter]

For most shooting the brand of boxer primed brass matters little. If serious comp target shooting(especially long range) it will matter and so will case prep matter more.
Some people say the Fed brass gets loose primer pockets sooner than other brands. I have used it in other cartridges as I do not shoot 6.5CM but do shoot many others. I found it to be good brass. I have been reloading since the 1960's if it matters and load for approx 35 different cartridges

[prk]

Thanks for the feedback, guys.

[jwest]

Lapua and Star Line.

[kengotit]

Btw Hornady once fired brass are .35-.50 cent a piece

Bullets hornady 140grn ELD
Powder h4350 is superior to the caliber
Primers fed 210m

Those Primers and powder might be impossible to find but
You find them on the shelf buy the all

[WMG]

I try and stay away from winchester brand brass , you could have a problem with any brand that is a given.
But I've had too many issues with winchester brass in a couple different calibers.

[Witch Hunter]

If you are starting out reloading, use the same headstamp of brass to work up loads. For that size case it won't mater too much, but the object is consistency. Some people have preferences about which brand, but if you are buying factory ammo for the brass, just buy all the same brand. That will get you a good start.

[bigdawg86]

Lapua and Star Line.

Starline makes 6.5 Creedmoor brass?

[8mmFMJ]

I reload mixed .308 and have hit pretty close to the 5000 mark.

The softest brass is the P's. PPU , PMC, Perfecta, RP. These ones have by far the softest primer pockets and require the most trimming. After 5-6 loads of IMR 4895 under 150-168's the primer pockets are so loose that the primers shake out in a LAR auto loader; and the brass is stretched so far it is pitted.

The harder brass is Hornady, Lapua, GFL, LC, 7.62 marked...basically brand name brass manufacturers and NATO brass is a bit harder. It makes the pressing part a bit stiffer (Lapua .338 big time) but the end result is more loads per case.

[JMP]

You won't get that much for 6.5 CD brass. Folks that are interested in shooting accurately will generally start with new brass. There is a simple choice in 6.5CD, small or large primer. The best large primer (traditional 6.5CD) is now Norma. Lapua recently came out with small primer brass. Most of the 6.5CD brass is Hornady. Each piece of Hornady brass (new and unfired) seems to have a weight range of +/-4gr, which is not consistent for such a small case. The Norma brass is +/- 0.1gr. The Lapua brass (which I haven't tried) should be almost as good as the Norma for consistency, but it will also last longer. The Nosler brass is also quite good in 6.5CD. I don't know anything about Federal or Winchester 6.5CD brass.

[NorCalFocus]

Buy once cry once. Buy good brass, and it will last. I got 3-4 firings out of Federal brass on my .308. I can't imagine it lasting any longer on 6.5 rounds.

For a factory rifle, I'd make sure to run the large primer brass in 6.5 too. A factory firing pin can peirced primers on small rifle primers.

[Jimmy's]

I use Winchester for all my Ackley rounds, Federal is great, Remington works for a while, PMC sucks! Hornady is ok, Lapua cost too much but I do use it for one wildcat round.

[silvertriple]

I reload mixed .308 and have hit pretty close to the 5000 mark.

The softest brass is the P's. PPU , PMC, Perfecta, RP. These ones have by far the softest primer pockets and require the most trimming. After 5-6 loads of IMR 4895 under 150-168's the primer pockets are so loose that the primers shake out in a LAR auto loader; and the brass is stretched so far it is pitted.

The harder brass is Hornady, Lapua, GFL, LC, 7.62 marked...basically brand name brass manufacturers and NATO brass is a bit harder. It makes the pressing part a bit stiffer (Lapua .338 big time) but the end result is more loads per case.

Agree with this post. Brand names like Lapua, Norma, Nosler, Hornady do tend to make better brass. Although I do have to say I'm at about my 9th load using Winchester brass in my 284 Win. Still shoots less than moa with tight primer pockets. Neck sized only.

My last batch of Hornady brass for my AR 6.5 Grendel were at 12+ loads (were looking pretty beat up, but grouped like new, the loads were on the hot side). These are FL sized. Now I use them for hunting only since they are almost impossible to find in the woods. PPU brass was noticeably softer when trimming and sizing. FL sized with about 4 loads. I prefer Hornady in this cartridge.

I have Norma and Lapua for my 6.5x55 and these are some great brass, with the edge going to Lapua. They both shoot consistent half moa with the same load. Both brands still have tight primer pockets like new. Neck sized only with 7+ loadings.

I'm using FC brass for my 308 now. On 3rd loading, with primer pockets taking slightly less pressure to seat. We'll see how many more loadings they'll take. FL sized.

For 223 and pistol I just use whatever as these are more for plinking. Although I'm going to start load work up for some range pick up RP brass for the 223. We'll see how that pans out.

FWIW, in the end, I try to use the same headstamp. Usually, that is good enough to produce moa or less loads. Hope this was able to provide some in the field usage info for you.

[LynnJr]

In every form of competitive shooting Lapua brass gets the nod.
If Lapua doesn't make brass for the cartridge choose a different cartridge.