Reloading handbook question

[Nuuze]

Hey fellow reloaders,

I'm still waiting for the rest of my reloading stuff to arrive. While waiting I'm reading through my Lyman's 50th edition reloading handbook and have a question.

I bought Berry 9MM (.356) 115gr RN and CCI small pistol primers #500. Looking at the handbook for 9mm / 115gr it only lists JHP and Barnes TAC-XP with different start/max loads. So what do I use for the 115gr RN I bought???

Any insight would be grateful!

-Regards

[elpaisa1]

It all depends on the powder you use. You should also refer to the powder co. Website for their recommdations. It's also a good idea to refer to other hand loading manuals like Lee and Hornaday etc.

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[elpaisa1]

Start in the middle and work your way up or down.

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[donnrcp]

https://www.berrysmfg.com/faq#FAQ3

[uechikid]

It all depends on the powder you use. You should also refer to the powder co. Website for their recommdations. It's also a good idea to refer to other hand loading manuals like Lee and Hornaday etc.

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Great advise.

[Nuuze]

I see the powder company's load data now to compare and refer to bullet and manual. Thanks for the tip!

[Divernhunter]

Barnes bullets are a whole different critter and should only use Barnes data for them I also do not use Barnes data for other bullets.

[Nuuze]

Question on OAL. The manual states an exact 1.550 for .38 special on pay 412. Is there a +/- range? It seems like when I do a search I get a different answer each time. Thanks!

[noylj]

>Start in the middle and work your way up or down.

Wrong. You start at the start load and work up. Your "middle" load could easily be a max/over max load since you don't have the same lot numbers of components. Don't play games. Even if you only fire one round at the start load to verify light load/no pressure signs, you will still save yourself from harm.
It's a plated bullet. Thus, you start with LEAD bullet data and work up. You MAY be able to start at the jacketed start load and work UP to the middle range jacketed load.
If you want data for your bullet, buy "name brand" bullets from manufacturer's that sell their own loading manuals. Have you READ the manual's reloading sections and did they discuss bullet selection/data selection?

COL is NOT a manual data item, other than to show what COL they used with their bullet in their gun. Chambers vary, bullet geometry varies--thus, COL is dependent on the gun and bullet used.
Per Ramshot:
"SPECIAL NOTE ON CARTRIDGE OVERALL LENGTH “COL”
It is important to note that the SAAMI “COL” values are for the firearms and ammunition manufacturers industry and must be seen as a guideline only.
The individual reloader is free to adjust this dimension to suit their particular firearm-component-weapon combination.
This parameter is determined by various dimensions such as
1) magazine length (space),
2) freebore-lead dimensions of the barrel,
3) ogive or profile of the projectile and
4) position of cannelure or crimp groove.
• Always begin loading at the minimum ‘Start Load.’"

Your COL (OAL) is determined by your barrel (chamber and throat dimensions) and your gun (feed ramp) and your magazine (COL that fits magazine and when the magazine lips release the round for feeding) and the PARTICULAR bullet you are using. What worked in a pressure barrel or the lab's gun or in my gun has very little to do with what will work best in your gun.
Take the barrel out of the gun. Create two inert dummy rounds (no powder or primer) at max COL and remove enough case mouth flare for rounds to chamber (you can achieve this by using a sized case—expand-and-flare it, and remove the flare just until the case "plunks" in the barrel).
Drop the inert rounds in and decrease the COL until they chamber completely. This will be your "max" effective COL. I prefer to have the case head flush with the barrel hood. After this, place the inert rounds in the magazine and be sure they fit the magazine and feed and chamber.
You can also do this for any chambering problems you have. Remove the barrel and drop rounds in until you find one that won't chamber. Take that round and "paint" the bullet and case black with Magic Marker or other marker. Drop round in barrel (or gage) and rotate it back-and-forth.
Remove and inspect the round:
1) scratches on bullet--COL is too long
2) scratches on edge of the case mouth--insufficient crimp
3) scratches just below the case mouth--too much crimp, you're crushing the case
4) scratches on case at base of bullet--bullet seated crooked due to insufficient case expansion (not case mouth flare) or improper seating stem fit
5) scratches on case just above extractor groove--case bulge not removed during sizing. May need a bulge buster.