Does Anyone Reload for their M1A?

[dixieD]

I am in the process of collecting equipment for reloading my M1a. My prior experience has been reloading 38spl and 357.

I've collected a bunch of the Lithoanian brass fired from my and my brothers M1As that I intend to use in my reloading adventure, and I am planning to use a 308 winchester full sizing die.

I am wondering if anyone on the board reloads for their M1a and has any advice, pitfalls, things to look out for, for someone starting out on 308 for this particular rifle?

[bohoki]

buy a trimmer (be it the cheapo lee that holds the caserim and has a stop spud that goes through the primer hole)

and a deburing/champher tool for after triming

[Trapper]

I load 43.5gr of RL-15 behind a 168gr SMK sized to 2.80". Use clean, properly sized brass and you shouldn't have any problems.

[AC Gould]

If you are shooting at paper, don't load any hotter than you need to for accuracy. Less pressure = longer case life. Stick with the 4895 class/burn rate of powders ( i.e. H4895, IMR4895,4064, Varget,etc.) Check cases for incipient case failure, neck splits, and stretch everytime you load. Trim to minumum length and don't seat bullets out too far...check primers for excessive pressure signs after firing. All pretty standard stuff to do with any reloads. I use Lake City match brass as it's a bit thicker and holds up well.

[spencerhut]

Save yourself a bunch of time at the trimmer and get the RCBS X-Dies.
I use this set on my M1A: http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=824502

I'm not sure the Small Base set is entirely necessary, but the X-Die is a great innovation and anyone shooting bottleneck cartridges in any quantity should have every X-Die they can get their hands on. I'm using X-Dies for .30-06, .308, .223, and 6.5x55 and could not be happier. I trim & chamfer once and re-load until a batch starts to show signs of coming apart 6 to 15 reloads depending on the rifle and the brass. Having trimmed the traditional way for over 20 years it's sure nice to not have to trim more than once. Can you tell I like the X-Dies?

You need to be prepared to remove primer crimps. You can grind them out, But having done that for years I'll tell you it is a tedious task that is easy to over or under do. I use a RCBS Primer Pocket Swagging set and am happy with it. I've heard a lot of good things about the Dillion Primer Pocket Swagger tool, never used one.

Get a case gage, I use an L.E. Wilson This will tell you if the rounds you are producing are going to fit in the chamber. Since I shoot in competitions this is not optional for me. If you are just plinking or playing it's an option.

The M1A is not easy on brass. I find a lot of brass with damaged / torn up rims. If it's bad enough to make the round not pass the gage I'll get a small file and remove the offending burr. Don't try to fix anything really bad, just the minor stuff.

A Lee Universal Decapping Die works great on the crimped primers. I decap and then tumble before loading.

I've been using 43.5 grains of IMR4895 and Winchester 147g FMJ for my plinking loads. CCI Primers, Mixed cases, 2.800 OAL

I use the same charge of IMR4895 with 165 - 168 grain ballistic tip bullets for my 3-Gun match ammo. CCI Primers, WRA or LC cases, 2.750 OAL

[dixieD]

Thanks for all of the advice so far.

I have the Lee full length sizer. I don't know if this is a small base sizer or not. When I googled small base sizer it seems that RCBS is the only manufacturer. Does anyone successfully use the Lee full sizer die in reloading for the M1A?

The other thing I noticed about the brass fired through my M1A is that the neck is sometimes dented or dinged. Will the sizer dies take these dings out, and is this brass reloadable?

[Sheldon]

Not any different than loading any .308 Winchester loads with the exception of the need to keep the loads within the limit the gas action will handle. Look for manuals with data based on the M1A/M14 and you will stay out of trouble. Data based on bolt guns will list data on the low end which will cause short stroking of the operating rod and the high end data may cause blown primers and overexpanded cases.

[Darklyte27]

I would be if I bought my M1A before the rush...
anyways, I still reload .308 for my LR rifle.

[SDJim]

This article talks about loading for a match rifle, but it discusses a lot of the issues with loading for the M-1A.

http://www.zediker.com/downloads/14_loading.pdf

[Army GI]

Save yourself a bunch of time a the trimmer and get the RCBS X-Dies.
I use this set on my M1A: http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=824502

I'm not sure the Small Base set is entirely necessary, but the X-Die is a great innovation and anyone shooting bottleneck cartridges in any quantity should have every X-Die they can get their hands on. I'm using X-Dies for .30-06, .308, .223, and 6.5x55 and could not be happier. I trim & chamfer once and re-load until a batch starts to show signs of coming apart 6 to 15 reloads depending on the rifle and the brass. Having trimmed the traditional way for over 20 years it's sure nice to not have to trim more than once. Can you tell I like the X-Dies?\

OMFG, why have I not heard about this?!

PM sent.

[f4tweet]

http://www.jarheadtop.com/

http://www.jarheadtop.com/article_reloadquant.html

Enjoy, I took a two day class with him. Good gouge, and great Marine and shooter.

[kendog4570]

This article talks about loading for a match rifle, but it discusses a lot of the issues with loading for the M-1A.
http://www.zediker.com/downloads/14_loading.pdf

+1 on Zedikers article.
Also from another comment:
"Get a case gage, I use an L.E. Wilson This will tell you if the rounds you are producing are going to fit in the chamber. Since I shoot in competitions this is not optional for me. If you are just plinking or playing it's an option. "
I would consider this a must-have for any bottleneck case in a gas gun. Especially the M14.

[f4tweet]

I used a Wilson when I first started. It lets you gauge your case to a SAAMI spec chamber. I picked up an RCBS case micrometer. You check the dimension of a fired case, and set your F/L resizing die to bump the shoulder back .002-.003. I found out the setting using the Wilson was incorrect for my case and chamber.

http://www.gswagner.com/headspace/headspace.html

[GillaFunk]

I'm picking up an M1a (M14). Looking at ammo prices...I wonder if I can justify buying a reloader and doing it all myself. Downside is I have NO clue how to do it. I also just picked up a SIG226 .40. I'm new to shooting but spent 5 years in the Marines shooting a small variety of weapons.

Is it worth it?

[f4tweet]

If you are going to shoot a lot of .308, and want accuracy, and have time to learn, then yes buy a Rock Chucker, a good scale, dies, good calipers, an RCBS .308 micrometer, brass, primers, and powder. You will probably want a turret or progressive to load .40. Or, you can buy .308 battlepacks at the gunshow, and Miwall reloads. Time and money to start up, that's what you need to weigh... Semper Fi, Leatherhead