Bulk Brass for Handgun: What Matters?

[Phil3]

I already reload rifle ammo, but expect I will be reloading for 9mm, 45 ACP, and 45 Colt for handgun use. I can buy brass in a multitude of ways, but unsure on some things.

For target practice, is buying once fired brass from a range OK? Will be mixed head stamp. Does that really matter in a handgun? Is is preferred to buy new brass, of one known brand, stuff I know has not been over-pressured, or worn out? I don't mind cleaning it and depriming used brass and could save a lot going this route, but just not sure of the risks or downsides.

Phil

[dwalker]

I never sort hg brass beyond once, twice, thrice fired

[Divernhunter]

For target practice/casual shooting range brass is just fine.
You do need to look for crimped primers. Yes some pistol brass has crimped primers. I would also chuck any steel or alum brass.
The biggest thing about any unknown 45ACP brass is that some have small pistol primer size and most have large pistol primer size. Just separate it before priming and you will be fine. Both use same powder loads and shot well.
Those handgun brass that you state will last many reloads and usually the primer pockets wear out before the brass does. Also no need to trim the brass as they do not grow as bottleneck brass does.

[bigbossman]

Phil,

I live in the same town....... how much brass do you need? I can sport you some .45 and 9mm to get you started if you like.

['ol shooter]

I already reload rifle ammo, but expect I will be reloading for 9mm, 45 ACP, and 45 Colt for handgun use. I can buy brass in a multitude of ways, but unsure on some things.

For target practice, is buying once fired brass from a range OK? Will be mixed head stamp. Does that really matter in a handgun? Is is preferred to buy new brass, of one known brand, stuff I know has not been over-pressured, or worn out? I don't mind cleaning it and depriming used brass and could save a lot going this route, but just not sure of the risks or downsides.

Phil

The first rule of used brass: All sellers brass is "once fired" no matter how thrashed it looks. The good news is that for plinking, 9mm and .45 acp brass lasts and lasts. For .45 Colt I use new Starline brass to load, and since it can be loaded mild or wild, not knowing where the brass has been is problematic at times.

[sofbak]

Am I missing something on this thread? No one has mentioned "glocked" brass.

I've never encountered it, but have read many threads by reloaders that have-and encountered problems when re-sizing it.

[tanks]

Am I missing something on this thread? No one has mentioned "glocked" brass.

I've never encountered it, but have read many threads by reloaders that have-and encountered problems when re-sizing it.

This takes care of it, mostly a problem for .40 S&W

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/231187/redding-g-rx-carbide-base-sizing-die-kit-40-s-and-w-357-sig-10mm-auto?cm_mmc=se_service-_-shippingconf-_-shippingconf-_-ProductShippedTodayLink&W

[wbunning]

Am I missing something on this thread? No one has mentioned "glocked" brass.

I've never encountered it, but have read many threads by reloaders that have-and encountered problems when re-sizing it.

I've run across it in the past. Now, when I acquire brass of "questionable lineage", I size it then check it with a case gage. If it's bulged, I pass it through a Lee Bulge Buster. The Lee system just shoves the suspect case all the way through their factory crimp die, which is open at the top. That has the effect of full-lenght sizing and removes the bulge.

[Bill Steele]

Pretty much any brass you find or buy "once fired" will work fine. The exception being of Magnum calibers where split brass, loose primer pockets, etc., can be an issue (also 45 Colt if you are loading them to "Ruger, TC Contender only levels), otherwise I usually lose the case before it goes south. I have 45 Auto and 9mm cases I can't read the head stamp and they work fine, load after load.

I do sort my 45 Auto brass, thin headstamps get diverted for lead loads, thick head stamp gets sent to the jacketed load bin. Thin are R-P, Winchester, TZZ, etc., thick are Federal, PMC, Magtech (CBC), etc. I also sort the small pistol and large pistol primer cases in 45 Auto. I use the SPP cases with the exact same load data as LPP.

That's it.

For your 45 Colt, I would parrot what 'ol shooter said about considering new Starline. It is probably destined for a revolver, so you likely won't lose it. There is nothing like loading in new Starline Brass the first cycle.

The only "Glocked" brass you will have to think about is 40S&W and 10mm. If you are loading those for a Glock gun then you don't need the pass through style die like noted above, if you are picking up 40 or 10 from the range floor, or some local once fired source and loading that ammo for a non-Glock, then a pass through sizer really eliminates the issue (which is a much smaller issue than most make out).

[davek8s]

I collect as much brass as I can from the range, but now a days it's harder than it use to be.

But when I feel like I'm running low on brass I usually buy a thousand off of the market place.

I don't sort them, but I do go through them looking for cracks or mispicks.

[jimmythebrain]

I have stopped loading nickel plated brass.
If any of the nickel shaves/chips and gets on the inside wall of your sizing die it will scratch up following cases. The little nickel flecks are very hard to get off the die interior.

I have not had this with regular brass cases.

Also the problem with glocked brass (bulged) is that the case wall is weakened. Just pushing the bulge back in does not re-strengthen the brass. it just allows it to be full length sized and chamber in your gun. That may not be much of an issue if future firings are done in a fully supported chamber/barrel. But a case rupture when firing really jacks up your gun.

I choose not to reload 40 caliber brass from a Glock. Once fired 40 caliber brass is too cheap to risk it. If you really get a hold of once fired brass, look at the primer. If it has a rectangular primer indention, then it was likely fired in a Glock.

Also, I had a non-ramped barrel in one of my 40 caliber 1911's that would bulge reloaded 40 caliber ammo/brass. I only shot factory ammo after I discovered that and did not notice future bulged cases.

With 9 MM standard loads and 45 ACP, I sort head stamps but do not keep track of how often the brass has been fired before.

Pretty much all 1911 45 ACP barrels have chambers that are not fully supported.

sometimes you can find bullets and brass combo deals on TJConevera website at a decent price, with free shipping.