Getting into 338 Lapua...

[ARog]

Currently I reload everything from 9mm - 30-06 (and all the major calibers in between)

I've been studying the 338 Lapua round for about a year now and want to start reloading it.

For those that reload the 338, what dies do you recommend, what components do you use?

My main use for the 338 round would be to take advantage of a 1,000 pad that is at the range I go to. Cheers!

[blockfort]

I just ordered a 338 lapua rifle and do not reload. I'm wondering if, at $2.50/round BAM (Bare A** Minimum), I've made a wonderful but terrible mistake. I had sorely lacked a long range weapon. Filling that need, may be time to learn reloading. This may be that moment for me.

You should reload. Any competent shooter should. You could save a lot of money, depending on how often you shoot. Also, many, many cheaper platforms can shoot 1000y accurately.

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[blockfort]

Currently I reload everything from 9mm - 30-06 (and all the major calibers in between)

I've been studying the 338 Lapua round for about a year now and want to start reloading it.

For those that reload the 338, what dies do you recommend, what components do you use?

My main use for the 338 round would be to take advantage of a 1,000 pad that is at the range I go to. Cheers!

Like I said in the response to the second post, there are a lot of rounds that can shoot to 1000y. If you want 338, you'll be buying it because you think it's cool and you love spending money. If you truly just want to shoot to 1000y, you can do it with 308 or a ton of other platforms. Look through accurateshooter.com for their cartridge guide and see what you like. There's plusses and minuses to everything. I had been interested in 243, its a flat shooting round, but I hear barrel life is short. Etc etc.

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[bigdawg86]

I just did the same thing and picked up a 338 lapua.... It came with Redding dies from the guy I got it from, but bought whidden gun works. Their dies are phenomenal, particularly the micrometer seater.

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[Whiterabbit]

I used RCBS dies and liked them very much. All my dies are RCBS. Once I set them that's it, so I don't need a micrometer adjuster.

You can get nosler E-tips n 200 grains in a 338. It's kind of a strange component for a 338 lapua but you can zing that sucker out of your rifle at or above 3200 fps which shoots pretty flat, and it's lead free so you don't just have to stay at the 1000 yard line on the range if you'd like to hump the rifle into the woods somewhere.

Otherwise I'd look into bullets like prvi partisan 250's if they are available (not sure), or whatever the cheap jacketed alternative is. Cheaper you go the more trigger time you get, and that's more fun anyways.

You can always grow into boutique solids and VV powders @ double the cost of inexpensive materials.

If you look hard enough you can find military brass too which is great. I liked that stuff much better than Prvi brass (and I have never disliked prvi brass in any other cartridge ever, but prvi left me with a sticky bolt. in 338)

[bsumoba]

reload....especially with a 338 lapua.

This is my cost for my 338 Edge, which is similar in ballistics (some argue more than a 338 lapua).

Brass @ $0.39 Remington 300 RUM (This assumes I get 5 firings per case. Cost goes down if I get more reloadings out of each case)
Bullet @ $0.65 Berger 300gr OTM
Primer@ $0.04 CCI 250
Powder@$0.27 91.5gr H1000

My cost, $1.35 per round. (ammo components only)

Applied Ballistics at one point was selling 338 Edge ammo at $65 per 20 rounds. That's $3.25 per round...

[blockfort]

You'll probably end up spending the same amount of money per session, but you'll shoot twice as many rounds!

Regardless, loading is fun, and you can fine tune your loads for better accuracy.

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[JMP]

I recommend this set:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/779204/redding-competition-bushing-3-die-neck-sizer-set-338-lapua-magnum

With Lapua brass, you will likely want to use the .365" neck bushing.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/662744/redding-neck-sizer-die-bushing-365-diameter-titanium-nitride

For lighter bullets, such as 250-275gr, I'd suggest using H-1000. For heavier bullets such as 275-300gr, I'd suggest using Retumbo or N570.

Various large rifles primers work with the Lapua; you do not need the Federal 215s that most manual state as they are currently hard to find. CCI LRM, Rem 9.5m, RWS LRP, etc. all seem to work well in addition to the Fed 215. If you use a cartridge bigger than the Lapua with a standard (non-50 BMG primer), then you will want the Federal 215 to avoid hang fires.

If your goal is long range target shooting, then I'd strongly encourage the use of a monolithic projectile, which will be ballistically superior to a lead jacketed bullet in every way (except they are a bit harder to tune). Right now, the 255gr Flatline seems to be the best of breed for the 338s.

http://www.warner-tool.com/#!product-page/c1u5r/92c3825e-e0c4-5015-64dc-9490519fb531

[C.G.]

Right now, the 255gr Flatline seems to be the best of breed for the 338s.
http://www.warner-tool.com/#!product...c-9490519fb531

Thanks for the link, I didn't know about them, too bad they only have the 255.

[JMP]

Thanks for the link, I didn't know about them, too bad they only have the 255.

With monolithic projectiles, you will always use a lighter bullet than a jacketed lead bullets as they are less dense. Actually, the 255 is going to be longer than something like a 300g SMK. Also, the lower density requires a faster twist than lead for stability. I think the 255 is perfect for the Lapua as you get an excellent BC and you can shoot it above 3,000fps. If you are shooting at extended long ranges, it really helps to be >3,000 fps.

[C.G.]

With monolithic projectiles, you will always use a lighter bullet than a jacketed lead bullets as they are less dense. Actually, the 255 is going to be longer than something like a 300g SMK. Also, the lower density requires a faster twist than lead for stability. I think the 255 is perfect for the Lapua as you get an excellent BC and you can shoot it above 3,000fps. If you are shooting at extended long ranges, it really helps to be >3,000 fps.

Again thank you for the info, I've only been using the 300 grainers up to this point.