Buy supplies first?

[John Henry]

With all the proposed legislation in progress, especially regarding ammo, I'm seriously thinking of reloading. Because of work and family agendas I can't go the full Monty now with obtaining the manuals, equipment and supplies and start reloading. What I am thinking of implementing is a "buying program" of all the components-cases, bullets, powder and primers-with the logic being that the next logical step for the legislative jack holes would be extending ammo laws to reloading supplies.
I would buy manuals to help determine which brand of components would be the most generic so I wouldn't have stuff that I couldn't use when I actually start reloading. I will start with 9 m but will eventually do 45 ACP, .357 magnum, .38 special and .223. Any comments or suggestions?

[CGT80]

http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/node

Here is a bunch of data from a big powder company.

For pistol the universal powders I like are hp-38 which is the same as winchester 231, and red dot, which is a shotgun powder. There are others but I don't use them much. These two can be used for many different bullets and cartridges and even work in rifles for light plinking loads (lever action or bolt action).

Titegroup is one that I use, but I don't like it much. It is very fast and it only takes a small amount. It would be too easy to get a double charge of powder and not notice, even for a more experienced person.

Herco is another shotgun powder but I like it better for light rifle loads than pistol. Accurate #2 or #5 have a good amount of data and I think #5 is more universal, IIRC.

h335 is what 223/5.56 was developed with and it works in other rifle cases as well. Win 748 should be very similar and is popular, but I have not tried it yet, although I picked it up for that reason. These powders are ball type and flow easily into cases. I use magnum primers with 335. IMR 4895 and H 4895 are very universal rifle powders, but it is stick/pencil lead shaped and sucks to put into 223 cases. It is better for 30 cal rifles. I haven't seen mag primers listed for 4895. It can be used for the M1 Garand and you can make reduced rifle loads. In my 30-06, a reduced load is still powerful, but it doesn't beat up the shooter as much (bolt gun).

The first pistol powders will work in 357mag, 44 mag, 460 mag, etc., but you won't get full power loads because the powder burns too fast. Win 296 is the same as H-110 (verify this for yourself and use data from a book) and they are common magnum pistol powders. You may need magnum primers with this powder and I use mags since my books call for it.

TC or truncated cone bullets work great in autos. I buy 9mm 124 moly coated lead bullets for $60/1000 and they are not sticky with lube. Round nose is good as well and semi wad-cutters can cause problems in some guns. I like to buy in large quantities or get the same product over and over, so I don't have to work up a new load. When you change the bullet or powder, you will need to work up a new load and figure out the length of the round for your gun.

Lead bullets work great and I use them in competition. Moly lead is even better because the sticky lube (on lead) doesn't gum up the gun. Moly is a dry slippery lube that can leave your hands black. copper plated is not bad, but usually you can't push them too fast so they could be iffy in a rifle or real hot magnum. For light mag and rifle loads they are good and for 9, 40, 45, 38spl, they are good. Jacketed is fine, but the most expensive.

Start with a single stage press since it will be cheap and learn to load now instead of waiting for more laws or the crap to hit the fan. It will make more sense once you start doing it. Stilly, on calguns, has some good info for beginners and using Lee presses which don't break the bank. You can wait until later to pull the handle on a $2300 black press.

Ok, I have to go. I just saved you hours of research, unless you already knew all that. Check out Castboolits forum. It is great for reloading info. Calguns is just the tip of the iceberg compared to castboolits.

[Jmoreno88]

get primers and powders first and asap. Get a good powder that will do multiple calibers. I use bullseye and titegroup in a few calibers and cfe 223 for my rifle but honestly i would pretty much get any powder that's in Stock for a good price that i can use

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[Citadelgrad87]

Primers and powder, lots of it. If necessary, you can cast handgun projectiles.

Im on a 4 k per component binge, have been for a while and im not stopping.

[tonyjr]

I would start with a Lee hand loader . About 35 dollars

http://www.ebay.com/itm/90254-Classic-Lee-Loader-9MM-Luger-/131759876262?hash=item1ead8028a6:g:hQcAAOSwvFZW8ala

Then a pound of powder . I used to use HP-38 - I have switched to CFE pistol
At least a box of primers = 100 - maybe 5 dollars
Then the bullets - shipping will generally cost more than the bullets .
Start saving your cases
When I was hunting , I carried a lee hand loader in truck - [ Everything fit in a 6 pack cooler ] High / windy , brush , distance all take / need different loads and weights of bullets .
A word of advise , the Lee hand loader comes with a scope for powder . Buy the Lee hand loader 1st and read instructions for which powder to buy .
Remember , lots of others are thinking like you and the Lee hand loader will start to cost more .

[Gasman]

When I was hunting , I carried a lee hand loader in truck - High / windy , brush , distance all take / need different loads and weights of bullets

Care to explain this in a little more detail as to why different conditions require different loads?

And if this process took place while you were hunting, how would you check the zero of the different loads?

[Jjwisled]

Everything is going to be fine, don't worry about it, and for god sakes don't start buying supplies. But if you do get stuff for the expensive ammo on the shelf first. Then stock up on store bought ammo for what you shoot the most so you'll have brass. If you're going to start reloading you might as well reload for the most expensive calibers first. As far as hunting goes you just need range time to find what works for your gun. I use a Lee hand press and love it but will hopefully get something a little faster soon but it's a great tool to learn on and may come in handy at the range or in the field latter, good luck

[Jjwisled]

If you're near the Monterey area you can try my hand press out

[LynnJr]

In the past 50 years the price on primers cases bullets and powder has only gone up.
Anything you buy today will only go up in value and if Hillary gets elected you might become a rich man selling your supplies.

[tonyjr]

Gasman
clam - no wind rain Minimum powder ,
Raining / windy Max load
Lots of brush - heaviest bullet at max load .
At that time deer and pig season over lapped .
The / at least my 270 was a flat shooter to
around 50 yards and knowing your rifle and loads
You know to either aim high , low , left or right .
shooting into a ravine or up a ridge only comes
from a lot of practice . I zero in rifle / scope at 50
yards - get to where I am going to hunt , pace off
50 steps and check zero-ing . Most of time I set up
camp in a ravine or camp already in ravine so I
know where bullet will stop .
Now a days , I just use the lee loaders for case and
Cartridge checking for OAL . I had both knees
replaced , too many sound shooters and not that
many places to hunt at anymore .

[___M|9||___]

WHAT?

[stand125]

Youtube different reloading presses to get an idea of what you may like. The lee hand loaders are great and I have a few, but they do not like fmj pistol bullets and work much better on lead projectiles. I actually load allot on my lee hand press in the field. My go to press is the lee classic turret press. As to your original question, load up on components through powdervalley if you can afford it. I like titegroup for pistol and h335 or blc-2 for rifle because both cover 223 and 308.

[davek8s]

I think your idea to pick up some supplies is a good one.

Win 231 and CFE223 are the powders I stick to. I've been buying CCI primers in the past, but recently I bought some Seller and Bellot primers because the price was good.

[AandO]

Powders and Primers. Then Bullets, then Commercial ammo for the Brass. If you shoot 22lr, get that ammo asap.

If I were only able to have two powders they both would be Winchester.

W231 for Pistols and W748 for my Rifles. Not the best choice for all, but works in all the calibers I load and shoot.

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NEED LEAD?

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=1218081

[Trevor]

Gasman
clam - no wind rain Minimum powder ,
Raining / windy Max load
Lots of brush - heaviest bullet at max load .
At that time deer and pig season over lapped .
The / at least my 270 was a flat shooter to
around 50 yards and knowing your rifle and loads
You know to either aim high , low , left or right .
shooting into a ravine or up a ridge only comes
from a lot of practice . I zero in rifle / scope at 50
yards - get to where I am going to hunt , pace off
50 steps and check zero-ing . Most of time I set up
camp in a ravine or camp already in ravine so I
know where bullet will stop .
Now a days , I just use the lee loaders for case and
Cartridge checking for OAL . I had both knees
replaced , too many sound shooters and not that
many places to hunt at anymore .

Seems legit