Priming 223 Remington

[jltapia]

Hi all,
I just started reloading 223 Rem. and I had some issues repriming some of the cases. I noticed some of the brands were easier to reprime than others. PMC brand was repriming very smoothly. When I tried some Lake City cases, the primers wouldn't go in. Any ideas/feedback as to why the primers were not going in?

Thank you.

[Unretarded]

You need to get rid of the military primer crimp......I use the 27 dollar lyman hand tool that is orangish colored.......comes with the small and large crimp reamer....chamfer and debur heads.....

There are many many many ways to remove the primer crimp, that one works for me.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Lyman-Case-Prep-Multi-Tool/1168182.uts?productVariantId=2891635&WT.tsrc=PPC&WT.mc_id=GoogleProductAds&WT.z_mc_id1=03155672&rid=20&gclid=CP6hiLbSiM0CFQmqaQodFV4IFQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

[bigdawg86]

Yup... Military brass has primer crimped in. Gotta remove it. Your options are swage or ream the pockets. Just make life easy and get the dillon super swage.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[jltapia]

Thank you guys! Any recommendations on what to use to trim the cases? I understand there are different tools out there, including a die. I'm currently using a Lee single stage press to reload.
Thank you again.

[waawaaweenie]

trimming is a whole big variety of choices from cheap and slow to expensive and fast.

there are a few of them that mount on a drill and are pretty affordable.

https://www.possumhollowproducts.com/

http://www.giraudtool.com/Tri%20Way%20Trimmer.htm

[Divernhunter]

The Dillon Super Swager for the primer pockets.
Years ago I had the RCBS hand crank model with collets.
Got smart and sold it and bought a RCBS electric one with the lever operated case holder that takes different plates to hold the brass. MUCH faster!
Then I have the Lyman Case Prep Center for chamfering and such. It will do the primer crimp but the Dillon Super Swager is what I like better. You can also uniform primer pockets or clean them on it.

If you are using lee dies do yourself a favor and buy some real locking rings such as from Hornady for them.

I still have, but do not use, several primer crimp reamers and hand chamfer tools. Save yourself the wasted expense of buying the hand one and just get the powered ones like I have above in this post----or a different brand if you prefer.

One tool I still use that is a hand tool is the Lyman Flash Hole Deburrer. You do not need to use this tool but I do on my big game hunting rounds.

[Unretarded]

I am using the lee quick trim.......simple, cheap and seems to do a good job keeping things consistent.

[davek8s]

I use a counter sink drill bit to remove primer crimp. You just have to drill out the pocket for a second and be careful not to over do it.

I think the bit cost me $5.

[kcheung2]

Same here, a countersink in a power drill. If you want to go really cheap, a Phillips head screwdriver bit works pretty good too.

[jericho89]

I use a counter sink drill bit to remove primer crimp. You just have to drill out the pocket for a second and be careful not to over do it.

I think the bit cost me $5.

if you have a good case debuting tool it only takes a small turn and all is good

[emptybottle151]

You should already have the Lee Case Length Gauge & Cutter and Lock Stud for .223 so use the Lee Chamfer tool to ream the primer pockets.

[cavemanlrrp]

I like keeping as much brass around the primer pocket as possible. The primer pocket is usually where brass gives out first.
I use a lot of LC brass.
I swage with the Dillon.

I don't know about cost per round.
I do know I started saving money, when I stopped trying to save money.

Best
caveman

[AGGRO]

Same here, a countersink in a power drill. If you want to go really cheap, a Phillips head screwdriver bit works pretty good too.

I found one that fits small primer and another large perfectly

[JMP]

Hi all,
I just started reloading 223 Rem. and I had some issues repriming some of the cases. I noticed some of the brands were easier to reprime than others. PMC brand was repriming very smoothly. When I tried some Lake City cases, the primers wouldn't go in. Any ideas/feedback as to why the primers were not going in?

Thank you.

As others have mentioned, the difference is the crimped primers. There are two primary methods to do away with the crimp. You can either swage or deburr the pocket. Swaging the pocket is sort of like using a resize die for the bottom of the case. You push it in to get rid of crimps and to help uniform the primer pockets. This is probably the best method if you have a high volume of crimped brass.

If you don't have that much crimped brass, you can easier get rid of the crimp with a chamfer/deburr tool (you want a fat one, about 30 degrees works well). That is what I do.

On the progressive press if my primer upstroke has any resistance, I just pull it and deburr it a like and you get smooth angled edge where the crimp was.

[TKM]

Case prep is a necessary evil.

Use enough case lube too, 223 likes to get stuck in your dies.