hey guys... it's me again, i was wanting to know what type of dies should i use regular metal or carbide... why either... and also i have a dillon 550b, which brand of dies can i use??? thanks...
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Dies carbide or metal???
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Dies carbide or metal???
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If you use carbide you wont have to mess with case lube . I like RCBS dies . -
please just dont drop the carbide ones they will break, some one once dropped a carbide die at work and we ended up with nothing but chunks and dust
If life throws you a curve.
DRIFT IT!
as for my punctuation i ran out and there on back order and for my spelling i am dyslexic so deal with itComment
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Hornady now offers "Titanium" dies they seem to avoide the breakage problem. But even if you break a die, most companys seem over eager to send out a replacement.FOR SALE: XD45, 24/47 Yugo Mauser, AK RPD AES-10bComment
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Carbide. I don't wanna mess with having to put on and take off case lube.Comment
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I like Redding titanium carbide dies for loading handgun ammo and use standard dies (Redding and Lee) when loading for my rifle. I load all my rifle ammo for my bolt action rifles on a single stage press.Comment
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are there better dies then others??? in respect to manufacturer???Comment
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My father and uncle used Redding dies so I use them. I have a few Lee dies and I like them especially their price. You will find that everyone has their favorite dies, presses, bullets, cases and so on.
If you are new to reloading, I strongly suggest you start off with a single stage press as you will get to know the details in reloading.Comment
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Wives tales....
I was new to reloading and I did my homework. Forget a single stage, you'll waste your money and time. Get a progressive and enjoy the fruits of your labor.
Anyone who started with a single stage and then went to a progressive press will tell you it was a complete waste of time and money. The learning curve is nothing on a progressive and all you need to do is take your time until you are completely comfortable.
Will you make mistakes? Yes you will.
Is anything 100 percent? Absolutely not.
If you can afford it, buy a Dillon 650XL and don't look back. Auto indexing, case feeder, powder check and much more makes this machine worth every penny. Upgrades can be found on ebay for good prices and when you get good, reloading 1000 rounds can be done in 2 hours including prep time. (case cleaning not included in time)
Rifle reloading is almost as easy as handgun with some exceptions. If you do a LOT of 223 reloading, get the 1050, you won't regret it.
Before purchasing anything, get with someone who has a progressive and someone who has a single stage. Load some rounds on each and then decide. I got 100-1 odds that you'll like the progressive better and not find it too difficult to learn.
GL and welcome to reloading heavenNRA Life Member and Certified Instructor: Pistol - Rifle - Shotgun - PPITH - PPOTH - NRA Certified RSO
WTB the following - in San Diego
--Steyr M357A1 357SIG
--Five Seven IOM (round trigger guard)
Never forget - השואה... לעולם לא עוד.Comment
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I still prefer a single stage. Progressives are fine for pistol, but I shoot mainly rifle.
My case prep for rifle doesn't allow for using a progressive since I deprime, clean, resize, clean, then trim prior to priming, powder charging, and seating.
As far as carbide or non-carbide, get carbide for pistol cartridges. Rifle cartridges, it won't matter since you need to lube for bottlenecked cases anyway.
Distinguished Rifleman #1924
NRA Certified Instructor (Rifle and Metallic Cartridge Reloading) and RSO
NRL22 Match Director at WEGC
https://www.ocabj.netComment
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amen to that
you still need lube with rifle carbide dies
its just more forgiving if you forget to lube one
tapir locked cases are a real nightmare
ive heard of the titanium coated ones from hornady but they cost near as much as carbide
ps for those that do not know
the carbide is inside the steel die the whole die is not made of carbide and only the sizing die is carbide
so a set of "carbide dies" just means (carbide sizer)
(yea call me stupid but before i started reloading one of my questions was why do i need a carbide seater? a carbide crimp die may make sense then an experienced reloader filled me in)
ps i love the lee rgb dies they work so good and are so cheap and to add a crimp die is less than $10
i dont so much like the aluminum nut with rubber o ring thoughLast edited by bohoki; 01-02-2009, 11:31 AM.Comment
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I happen to like and use the Dillon three die sent in carbide for straight wall pistol applications.
Chief-7700
XL-650 to feed the: .45ACP's Les Baer Concept V, Ruger SR 1911, Ruger Nightwatchman,custom built Colt M1911, Springfield .45ACP Loaded.. 9MM SA Range Officer,Ruger P-85, Springfield Stainless 9MM loaded, SA 9MM 5.25" XDM, Springfield 9mm Stainless Range Officer, STI double stack .45ACP.
IDPA A41750 Safety Officer
NRA Certified RSO
"Stay out of the deep end of the pool; correct the problem with your credit card, not your dremel!"Comment
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I have a set of Hornady dies for .40S&W and the sizer is titanium nitride instead of carbide. Compared to my RCBS carbide pistol dies, I can't really tell the difference. Not sure if TiN is any better or worse than carbide for this application.
My Redding neck bushings for my S-Type dies are TiN. Perhaps it's just a marketing ploy to make the products look more advanced.
But they work, so that's all I really care about, I guess.
Distinguished Rifleman #1924
NRA Certified Instructor (Rifle and Metallic Cartridge Reloading) and RSO
NRL22 Match Director at WEGC
https://www.ocabj.netComment
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