2 reloading questions

[davek8s]

I've been reloading for a little over 3 years, but I still consider myself to be a novice reloader.

When I buy bullets I usually stick to bullet weights of commercial ammo, 158 gr 38 special, 230 gr 45 acp, and 55 gr 223.

My first question is, would there be any benefit to buying lighter weight bullets? Like 125 gr bullets for my 38 or 50 gr 223. The ammo I reload is all used at the range, so I don't need heavier hunting bullets.

Second question is regarding primers. Do brands of primers affect accuracy? I'm pretty heavily invested in CCI brand primers and I'm happy with them. But is there a brand that's better?

[ducky_0811]

You'll get as many different answers to this as there are people reading the replies.

For .45, to get a cheaper round you can use 200 gr bullets, I do quite often and they shoot great, or even a 185 gr. Same applies to .38 and .223. However in .223 going lighter won't always mean cheaper depending on bullet construction. The 55gr fmj is kind of the standard but far from the most accurate. A 52 gr smk or a max will probably shoot better but almost always cost more.

Just depends on what your purpose is for the ammo. As for primers, in handgun cartridges, the difference will be nominal unless you're running max charges. In rifle ammo, I've seen a switch from winchester to cci create I'll effects. So I would say you will need to work a new load. But as I stated, someone else who has had a different experience than me will say otherwise. But S&B or wolf primers are cheaper than cci and they certainly go bang.

[Carcassonne]

I've been reloading for a little over 3 years, but I still consider myself to be a novice reloader.

When I buy bullets I usually stick to bullet weights of commercial ammo, 158 gr 38 special, 230 gr 45 acp, and 55 gr 223.

My first question is, would there be any benefit to buying lighter weight bullets? Like 125 gr bullets for my 38 or 50 gr 223. The ammo I reload is all used at the range, so I don't need heavier hunting bullets.

Second question is regarding primers. Do brands of primers affect accuracy? I'm pretty heavily invested in CCI brand primers and I'm happy with them. But is there a brand that's better?

The lighter the bullet, the less lead is used, and the lower cost it should be. Chances are you won't see any difference in accuracy/precision.

Most people will not see a difference in accuracy/precision with different primers. Federal primers are supposedly more sensitive, so you can use a lighter hammer/striker spring which may help improve accuracy/precision. When primers are made there is a specific range/volume or primer component that is suppose to go in each primer cup. The primers are checked and those that fall within a specific range are pulled out and used as "match grade primers."

If you have a high-dollar target pistol, you will probably notice a difference in primers. If you have a regular stock gun, primers won't make a difference.

If you use mixed brass cases, you won't get match grade ammo regardless of which primers or bullets you use.


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[davek8s]

Thanks for responses everyone. I'm not really looking to make match grade ammo at this point. I just wanted to see if there were advantages to switching primers or bullet weights.

[opos]

For my 45acp and 45 Colt loads I buy (can't cast...doc's orders) Missouri high tech coated in 200 grain..they load easy...don't lead...shoot great and are far less than jacketed bullets....I prefer them to plated or jacketed for just plinking. I shoot the same bullet in 357 (lighter loads) and 38 special in the .357 diameter and 125 grains....same reasons...I buy either Winchester or CCI primers because on occasion I've had problems with some of the foreign brands ...not often but nothing worse than having primer problems and for what they cost I go with what I trust...I shoot mixed cases and am really cautious about inspection (don't trim or measure for plinking, however)...I shoot CZ's and Rugers and load medium loads...in the 45Colt I shoot bunny fart loads for fun...sort of a pop and then after while the bullet hits the paper.

The fun of loading is experimenting...lots of things to try.

[Eljay]

My recommendation is to buy a bunch of 100 packs or other small amounts of bullets from a couple of different vendors in different weights and profiles and see what you think. Some guns may respond positively or negatively to some combinations, like I have a Glock that jams if you use semi wad cutters but will feed anything else. Go figure.

Generally with lighter bullets you pay a little less, so there's that, but you may like the feel less. On average they're going to be a little snappier. It's kind of personal.

Primers... CCIs are nice. Most makers have some kind of match or bench or however they want to market it and have different ways of determining that (Federal just seems to use their old timer employees who are super consistent). Frankly you're unlikely to notice unless you're a precision rifle shooter.

That being said if you're in some situation like you have a small amount of powder in a big case, and that powder isn't very good in that scenario, a hotter primer might light the powder more efficiently. So there's always going to be some guy who's like "oh, yeah, I went to magnum powders and the accuracy went way up" but it wasn't a normal kind of scenario I bet.

[Eljay]

Oh and you should try some heavier .223 if you're shooting longer distances just to see the difference. If nothing else they're probably a little more wind resistant.

[458lottguy]

Here is a great link. They tested different primers.

http://precisionrifleblog.com/2012/07/02/most-accurate-rifle-primers-for-precision-reloading/

[davek8s]

Oh and you should try some heavier .223 if you're shooting longer distances just to see the difference. If nothing else they're probably a little more wind resistant.

I'm shooting a Remington 700 SPS in 223 at a 100 yard range. From what I've read the heaviest bullet I should use is a 62 gr. but I figure at 100 yards the 55 grain bullets should work fine.

[Eljay]

I think they've changed the twist rate on the Remington 700 SPS over the years so it's hard to speak in generalities but as a lower priority item I might pick up some heavier bullets if there's a good sale and try it just as an experiment. Can't hurt.

[rg1]

Varmint or Tactical SPS? Varmint has 1/12 twist and Tactical SPS has a 1/9 twist. I think? If your rifle has a 1/9 twist it'll shoot 69 grain match bullets very well plus is ok for lighter bullets. If you have a 1/12 twist SPS Varmint then I highly recommend Hornady's 50 gr. V-Max or Sierra's 52 gr. BTHP Matchking. A 1/12 twist should do best with bullets up to 60 grains.
For 45 ACP I've tried 185 gr jacketed hollowpoints and didn't like them. I still prefer 230 gr. 45 ACP loads for one reason being the fixed sights I've used seems to be calibrated for 230's. Same thing in lots of fixed sight 38's being calibrated for 158 grain bullets. I do like 125 grain bullets in .38 Special. That's one fun part of reloading is testing different components. You're not missing anything though shooting 230 and 158 grain bullets.

[Flyin Brian]

I've been playing around with "lighter than normal" bullet weights for the past few years and it's been a fun way to explore a different side of reloading.

On the 38/357 path, I'm loading 105 gr truncated cone cast bullets. These shoot excellent in my 357 & 38 revolvers, haven't tried them in the Marlin yet.






The other area I have been playing with is on the 7.62X54r with light bullets. I see a lot of people using 123 gr .311" which are usually loaded in 7.62X39. I took it a little further and am now loading 100 gr Lapua "cutting edge" FMJ & HP. These little hole punches are the bomb! I'm running them at 3000 fps and even with the 1 inch jump to the lands (ok not quite an inch) they are one of the most accurate bullets I have shot in my Finnish 28-30 out to 300 yards:





I'm using these at the Sac Valley Silhouette match on the chickens and pigs. The only downside is the spotter had a hard time reporting where they hit because the target just disappears

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

[sargenv]

I've used the 105 SWC's just fine in the Marlin. I also used them for 9mm sized to .356" and they work just fine if a little bit snappy. My alloy has them come out at an actual 108 gr..

[JagerDog]

Shooting cast in pistol?

I shoot a lot of Bear Creek 200gr HBRN in 45 ACP. Gives the bearing surface and feeding of 230gr RN at a bit less cost and a bit faster if I want.

I shoot a lot of 148 gr HBWC in 38 special, but use 158 SWC in the carbine.

I like the hollow base bullets. Tend to lead less too.

In .223 I like the 50gr Speer TNT's which are available in bulk packs. My Kimber of Oregon likes them. Bulk ammo for the AR is 55 FMJ's though.

[davek8s]

2 reloading questions

Varmint or Tactical SPS? Varmint has 1/12 twist and Tactical SPS has a 1/9 twist. I think? If your rifle has a 1/9 twist it'll shoot 69 grain match bullets very well plus is ok for lighter bullets. If you have a 1/12 twist SPS Varmint then I highly recommend Hornady's 50 gr. V-Max or Sierra's 52 gr. BTHP Matchking. A 1/12 twist should do best with bullets up to 60 grains.

I bought the SPS Varmint with the 1 in 12 twist. It was on sale at Bass Pro.

Shooting cast in pistol?



I shoot a lot of Bear Creek 200gr HBRN in 45 ACP. Gives the bearing surface and feeding of 230gr RN at a bit less cost and a bit faster if I want.



I shoot a lot of 148 gr HBWC in 38 special, but use 158 SWC in the carbine.



I like the hollow base bullets. Tend to lead less too.



In .223 I like the 50gr Speer TNT's which are available in bulk packs. My Kimber of Oregon likes them. Bulk ammo for the AR is 55 FMJ's though.

My pistol reloads are all Bear Creek cast lead. Next time I buy 45's I'll look at the 200 grain.