38spl / .357 Mag loading help

[armandolo]

I do not have any reloading equipment and before I went and bought the equipment I want to know whats involved.
I have about 1000 rounds or so of 38spl/.357Mag once fired case and wanted to know if anyone can help/teach me to reload those.I do not want to buy reloader and permanently store it in the attic.
I can buy the bullets, the primer and the powder. Also if the reloader you have is a Dillon 650 or a Hornady LNL that would really help. Since those are the ones I.m considering.

I'm in SF Peninsula

[tankerman]

Location ?????????????

Yes, what's your location?

Easier to show than explain.

[Budd]

There is a difference between .38/.357 as well.

[armandolo]

Added location. SF Peninsula

[eaglemike]

It's about the easiest cartridge to reload. If you were closer I'd be glad to get you going.
all the best,
Mike

[Budd]

It's about the easiest cartridge to reload. If you were closer I'd be glad to get you going.
all the best,
Mike

How is it easier than any other straight walled round?

BTW - I load for .357, .40, .45, etc.

[pennys dad]

I thinks its not really easier as much as it is common, like a .45. The rounds has been in use for a loooooooooong time and lots of folks have been reloading 38/357. I recently started reloading again and I am starting with 38/357. Also these 2 rounds are generally revolver rounds so there is room for our newbie mistakes (not counting double charging) or (2 types of powder mixture). Plus there is tons of info.

[eaglemike]

Well, it's easier than most any autoloading round I can think of, since the oal is not anywhere near as critical. You don't have to worry about feeding issues, right?

Lots of bullet selection, brass lasts forever at standard pressures. Lots of pwder selection.

You also don't need to select a particular load (power factor or however you want to define it) as you have to in order to cycle an autoloader. You can load down very low, or full house .357 magnum. I would not suggest getting into .357 magnum power for a while.

Sizing is often easier for .38 special than .40 or .45, much less a tapered round like the 9mm. .38 special doesn't seem to expand as much at normal pressures - after all, they are pretty low.

It's usually harder to spill powder when cycling the .38 in a progressive press than a .40 or .45 - although this is not a real issue if one is careful.

I served my apprenticeship at Star Machine Works in San Diego, where the Star progressive loader (and Universal) and bullet lubrizer was made. I've been loading for over 30 years. I have loaders on my bench (or toolheads) for .380, 9mm, .38/.357, .38 super, .40. .44, .45acp. .45 colt and probably other handgun calibers (rifle stuff too) The point is I've loaded all of them many times.

New brass in .44 (special or mag) and .45 colt often stick to the belling/powder drop tube in Dillon presses. I've never seen a .38 do that.

The brass often stays cleaner since most people don't throw revo brass on the ground unless they are practicing for competition.

Do believe what the manuals say when they have a statement about changing one component requires starting with a lower powder charge.

Start with a medium or light load. Let us know what powders you are considering. I'd suggest something like 231, Bullseye, or Clays. All these will burn fairly clean, Clays the cleanest. Use a medium weight bullet, probably a 158. Lead round-nose if you can find them. If you can get a box of Bear Creek, they will be cheaper than jacketed and shoot very well in a .38. You can get a lot of loading done for not much money.

The Hodgdon site is very good for load info.
all the best,
Mike

[armandolo]

It's about the easiest cartridge to reload. If you were closer I'd be glad to get you going.
all the best,
Mike

Thanks Eaglemike. SD is a bit far. Anyone Closer?

[Sky_DiveR]

You picked a great round to start reloading. A single stage kit from RCBS would be a great start, not to mention they have a lifetime no-hassle warranty (at least I've never been hassled) and they're in Oroville. A single stage won't get you into trouble like a progressive will and will keep you to the basics until you get to know what you are doing.

Remember to check all rounds for powder level BEFORE loading/inserting bullets. All the powders mentioned earlier in the post can easily double-charge if you are not careful. ONLY load without distractions. It's just too easy to get distracted and forget where you left off. I load after everybody has gone to bed. You can do prep work whenever but loading REQUIRES your full attention.

I live in Sac-Town but that's still a couple hours drive. I'm sure there are others closer. But drop me a PM if you can't find somebody.

BTW: Get carbide dies so you don't have to mess with lubing the cases.