Redding .223 Die sets

[ECG_88]

So I have finally decided to pull the trigger on reloading. I got a Forster Coax with the recent Cabelas gift cards and free shipping. I just have to wait 4-5 weeks for the back order... at least I got a good deal. So the calibers I have are .40, .45, .223, .30-06, .30 carbine, .32 ws.

I need dies and mostly shoot .223 with my AR so I will start there. I did a little bit of research and found out I need some FL dies. Now we get into the tricky part for new shooters. Each manufacturer makes a billion types of dies in the same caliber that all look like they do the same thing. What is the difference, specifically with the following 3 sets?

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/0007636111/223-Remington-Type-S-Match-Bushing-Full-Length-Die-Set

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/0007639111/223-Remington-National-Match-3-Die-Set-

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/0007658111/223-Remington-Competition-Bushing-Neck-Die-Set

Everyone online seems to like the S-type, but what makes it different from the national match or the Competition set? I understand semi-autos are limited in the accuracy potential, but I still want to make the best ammo I can. Which set is the best?

[liber]

I would think the middle one with a FL sizing die, comp seating die and crimp die is what you want for an AR.

[BigBronco]

Stay away from the "Bushing type dies" if you are not turning your case necks. These dies are primarily for match bolt action shooters.

[JMP]

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.co...Length-Die-Set

This full body sizes and neck sizes with a specified bushing so all your sizing is done in one step. Then, it uses the standard competition micrometer seater, which is an exceptional die. These have spring loaded sleeves that fit your cartridge to guide the projectile in concentrically. Then, there is the added bonus of having the micrometer seating to make small adjustments in length.

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.co...tch-3-Die-Set-

This is almost the same as the first one above; however, the neck sizing and body sizing are in two separate steps. You use the bushing size of your choosing for the neck die. The seating die is the same.

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.co...g-Neck-Die-Set

This one is like the second one, however, it is upgraded to have the sleeve and micrometer like the competition seating die to help keep your necks concentric.

Personally, I use the competition sets if Redding makes one for my cartridge. I commonly neck size only without FL sizing so that makes the competition set with the two micrometer dies the one I like.

However, the first one, the plain old type-S is probably the best if you want to stay on a tighter budget and you full length and body size each time you reload. Then, it is done in one easy step. The FL part of the die guides the neck in straight so it is effective. That's what I do not like about the neck only sizer in the non-micrometer version.

Oddly, for .223 on a Dillon machine, I also use the competition set because I have found that first sizing the neck only and decapping, then body sizing only in a different station will allow .223 to be filled on a progressive machine without lubrication other than the natural lubrication from a good dry tumble.

[JMP]

Stay away from the "Bushing type dies" if you are not turning your case necks. These dies are primarily for match bolt action shooters.

I do not agree with this philosophy. I do not turn my necks, and I use bushing dies for all my rifle ammo. The reason for this is so I can choose the right neck bushing rather than turning the necks to fit a specific die. Decent brass from Lapua, Norma, and some others have neck thickness with variance of less than 0.001" from side to side within a lot. Thus, the bushings can be used quite effectively. I am not fond of the expander ball sizing on rifle cartridges since they are not good for preserving brass like and producing the most concentric cases. If you are not using good brass, then it matters less.

[jimmythebrain]

I do not know about all of Redding's offerings but some AR shooters use a small base die to resize their cases.

I load for a 223 Bolt Action and several different AR 15's so I do not use any of the bushing die systems.

[M1NM]

All 3 of those sets are only useful if you are going bullseye shooting. If you are loading your 223 for an auto just get a set of RCBS dies and go at it. I have never needed small base dies for any of my loads. Neck dies are useful if you are going to shoot competition with only one gun.

[bazineta]

Small base dies are for small chambers. If your chamber is within normal spec, a normal die set should work. There's often discussion about using a SB die to resize MG-fired brass, but I just use a normal FL die for that.

For an AR, I use and recommend Redding's National Match set if you can swing it. It's a 3-die set containing a full-length sizing die with carbide expander ball, a micrometer seater, and a taper crimp die.

The full-length sizing die is in general what you want for an AR, since during the extraction process the cases are still malleable and thus, as opposed to a bolt gun, the cases will be larger than the chamber, having grown slightly on their way out the door. Most of the super-cool resizing dies (neck only dies, etc.) are for bolt guns. For an AR, full-length resize. The carbide expander ball is nice in that you don't need to lube the inside of the neck. Downside, you can't really tune carbide like you can steel, but at least in the one I have, it yields perfect neck tension, so I didn't need to mess with it.

The micrometer seater is very nice in that you're basically on your COAL very quickly rather than having to futz with it, and the one in that set is a great one. There are cheaper seaters available if you're on a budget.

The taper crimp die is something you either like or you don't. For a gas gun, I always taper crimp. Others will argue against it; in a bolt gun, I'd argue against it. However, the chambering process in an AR is relatively violent, and I prefer the taper crimp as some insurance against setback.

Whatever route you go, the one thing I'd recommend with any die set is a set of the Redding Competition shell holders. These aren't very expensive, and they allow you to control the headspace very easily as compared to using the die position in the press alone.

[pdq_wizzard]

All 3 of those sets are only useful if you are going bullseye shooting. If you are loading your 223 for an auto just get a set of RCBS dies and go at it. I have never needed small base dies for any of my loads. Neck dies are useful if you are going to shoot competition with only one gun.

^^ This, if you are loading for an AR get RCBS dies and some extra de-capping pins.

[liber]

All 3 of those sets are only useful if you are going bullseye shooting.

How many rings do you usually shoot for outside the bullseye?

My club must have a bunch of doozies in it...everyone is shooting for the bullseye...