Different steps loading with lead vs jacketed?

[kdsd731]

I was thinking about getting a Ruger Vaquero in 45LC. I've only loaded jacketed bullets so far. I think I would want to use lead bullets for this gun. What's the process of loading with lead verses jacketed for pistols? I tried googling it but for what ever reason didn't find what I was after.

[silas3d]

It's the same process. Slightly different load ranges; so refer to your manual.

I load plated bullets (Rainier, etc) using lead load data, and jacketed (e.g. Hornady xtp/hap) using fmj load data per the manual.

Either way my process is identical. Be safe.

[jericho89]

As stated it is the same process, just lower powder levels with lead. Check your loading resources for the lead loads and you are good to go.

[Eljay]

One minor difference is you need to be careful to put enough bell on the case that you don't shave any lead when you're setting the bullet. You can be a little more sloppy with FMJ so that's something to be aware of.

As people noted you would use a little less powder to hit the same velocity.

[Fishslayer]

One minor difference is you need to be careful to put enough bell on the case that you don't shave any lead when you're setting the bullet. You can be a little more sloppy with FMJ so that's something to be aware of.

As people noted you would use a little less powder to hit the same velocity.

This. Lead bullets is where the Lee Factory Crimp die shines, especially if using bullets that don't have a big crimp groove. Even with sufficient flare you need to watch the closing up of the case mouth. Too soon & you'll shave lead.

[savagemann]

I'll echo what Eljay and Fishslayer said.
A little extra bell on the case mouth and the lee FCD is great with cast lead.
I prefer to ONLY remove the bell while crimping. If you crimp into the groove, it will shave lead when the round is fired.
We don't want to shave lead on the way in, or out.

[micro911]

I loaded both lead and jacketed bullets on a Dillon 550B. No issues.

[JagerDog]

On revolver rounds I prefer a rolled (into groove) crimp.

[rsrocket1]

With lead, fit is king. Make sure your bullets are at least 1 mil over groove diameter, 2 is fine also. If you are using gas checks with your 45 LC you may not have problems with full house loads but with bare base, work up slowly until you find the right load while checking for leading of the barrel.

I do not have problems with bare lead bullets using the Lee FCD with the sizer ring on .38 and 45 ACP, but I need to powder coat my 40 and 9mm bullets and the FCD swages the bullets down to where the reduced friction of the PC allows me to pull the bullet out with only my fingers. So with these calibers, I use the Lee taper crimp die which is similar to the seat/crimp die without the seating stem. With revolver bullets that have a crimp groove, you can use the seat/crimp die to do both with some careful adjustments.

Just make sure your bullets are fat enough for your barrel or you may get terrible leading with just a few dozen rounds.

Commercial cast lead bullets are made to endure shipping, not made to shoot well in guns. Beware of "hard cast" bullets with hard "crayon" type lube. No need for that when the 45 LC was originally shot with dead soft pure lead and a soft lube. Undersized hard cast bullets are a far bigger risk for leading than properly sized soft bullets.

[rcslotcar]

I only shoot jhp for heavy loads, cast for punching holes in paper. Cast slugs of my own make, are a huge savings.

[Chief-7700]

Just remember to clean the lube build up out of your crimp die.
Chief