Reloading .357 in snubby

[sixoclockhold]

Waiting for my SP101 2.25 DAO and will be reloading. I purchased the roll crimp die and will be using 125 gr. Xtreme plated.

Would like to ask anyone who loads for this, what couple powders they have found that work well from plinking .38 special to near max .357? All for the purpose to get comfy with muscle memory with this revolver. Point and shoot type guy.

I'm leaning toward Universal, but as we all know powers are hit and miss so a couple that might work would be appreciated. I don't like a filthy barrel.

Also is it necessary to roll crimp a .38 special or +P round?

Magnum primer?

[Major Danger]

HS-6 can get pretty high mag velocities and I think can do good in mid-range to +p 38 spl

Any medium-fast powder from 231/hp38 range should be good though. Just crimp enough to take the flare out of the case, or to where you can barely see a taper at the mouth.

[ojisan]

AA#5 for mid-range to upper .38 Special and mid-range .357.
For hot .357 loads, you need to go to a slower powder like H110 or W296.
However, with the short barrel the slow-burning powders may be largely wasted.
Consider AA#7 or 9.

As far as mag primers so, these are for slower burning powders like 110 / 296 which are harder to light off.
Standard primers will work fine with AA7 and 9.

No need to over crimp, but a good crimp is needed to get all powders burning well.

[jimmykan]

Hodgdon Universal is just about perfect for loading 38SPL, 38SPL+P, and mid-level .357MAG for short snubby barrels.

Also, Universal is less dense ("fluffier") than other popular 38SPL powders such as 231, Titegroup, Bullseye, so the powder fills the case of the 38SPL and even 357MAG more fully, leaving less space in the case and thus more consistent velocity. Yet despite its fluffiness, the flakes are small enough to allow for consistent metering from a powder measure.

Magnum primers are not needed to ignite Universal powder. You can probably use them anyway, but reduce the powder charge accordingly.

Magnum handgun powders such as Alliant Power Pro 300-MP, Hodgdon H110 and Winchester 296 will produce higher velocities in longer barrels (6" to 20"). In a 2.25" barrel, these powders will produce huge flashy fireballs (and watch out for your thumbs!) but only marginally higher muzzle velocity over medium burning powders such as Universal.

Ballistics by the Inch: 357 Magnum
According to this website, which systematically tested muzzle velocity using factory loads while cutting down a test barrel inch-by-inch, one can expect approximately 1000 fps of a 125 grain bullet factory load from a 2.25" barrel, far less than the 1900 fps from a 10" standard test barrel. I am sure you can achieve 1000 fps for a 125 grain bullet using Universal, and with MUCH less powder.

Also, those magnum powders can NOT be used in light 357MAG or 38SPL loads by reducing the powder charge. They ignite properly only when loaded to near max charge, and they DO require magnum primers. But if you want to have the loudest gun at the range with the most pyrotechnics, those are the powders to use in your snubby.


Regarding roll crimps: If your X-Treme plated bullets have a cannelure, then go ahead and use it. However, X-Treme recommends using only a light taper crimp:
X-Treme Bullet/Load Info
And according to Berry's, another plated bullet manufacturer, if you were to pull the bullet after crimping and the crimp leaves more than just a light scratch, then you're crimping too much.
FAQ: How do I load Berry's Preferred Plated Bullets?

Waiting for my SP101 2.25 DAO and will be reloading. I purchased the roll crimp die and will be using 125 gr. Xtreme plated.

Would like to ask anyone who loads for this, what couple powders they have found that work well from plinking .38 special to near max .357? All for the purpose to get comfy with muscle memory with this revolver. Point and shoot type guy.

I'm leaning toward Universal, but as we all know powers are hit and miss so a couple that might work would be appreciated. I don't like a filthy barrel.

Also is it necessary to roll crimp a .38 special or +P round?

Magnum primer?

[sixoclockhold]

Hodgdon Universal is just about perfect for loading 38SPL, 38SPL+P, and mid-level .357MAG for short snubby barrels.

Also, Universal is less dense ("fluffier") than other popular 38SPL powders such as 231, Titegroup, Bullseye, so the powder fills the case of the 38SPL and even 357MAG more fully, leaving less space in the case and thus more consistent velocity. Yet despite its fluffiness, the flakes are small enough to allow for consistent metering from a powder measure.

Magnum primers are not needed to ignite Universal powder. You can probably use them anyway, but reduce the powder charge accordingly.

Magnum handgun powders such as Alliant Power Pro 300-MP, Hodgdon H110 and Winchester 296 will produce higher velocities in longer barrels (6" to 20"). In a 2.25" barrel, these powders will produce huge flashy fireballs (and watch out for your thumbs!) but only marginally higher muzzle velocity over medium burning powders such as Universal.

Ballistics by the Inch: 357 Magnum
According to this website, which systematically tested muzzle velocity using factory loads while cutting down a test barrel inch-by-inch, one can expect approximately 1000 fps of a 125 grain bullet factory load from a 2.25" barrel, far less than the 1900 fps from a 10" standard test barrel. I am sure you can achieve 1000 fps for a 125 grain bullet using Universal, and with MUCH less powder.

Also, those magnum powders can NOT be used in light 357MAG or 38SPL loads by reducing the powder charge. They ignite properly only when loaded to near max charge, and they DO require magnum primers. But if you want to have the loudest gun at the range with the most pyrotechnics, those are the powders to use in your snubby.


Regarding roll crimps: If your X-Treme plated bullets have a cannelure, then go ahead and use it. However, X-Treme recommends using only a light taper crimp:
X-Treme Bullet/Load Info
And according to Berry's, another plated bullet manufacturer, if you were to pull the bullet after crimping and the crimp leaves more than just a light scratch, then you're crimping too much.
FAQ: How do I load Berry's Preferred Plated Bullets?

Thanks Jimmy

Yes I'm familiar with Xtreme and I do slightly cut into the plating on my .30-.30 with a strong taper crimp. I'll do some measuring after 3 of 5 trying both crimps.

I might note on the BBTI site the barrel lengths as I understand it are for semi-autos so you need to "ADD" the bullet length to those figures when shooting the snubby 2.25 in. Your velocity should be more around 1100+ which is all well and good. I will crony my rig someday and post.

[jimmykan]

Thanks Jimmy

Yes I'm familiar with Xtreme and I do slightly cut into the plating on my .30-.30 with a strong taper crimp. I'll do some measuring after 3 of 5 trying both crimps.

I might note on the BBTI site the barrel lengths as I understand it are for semi-autos so you need to "ADD" the bullet length to those figures when shooting the snubby 2.25 in. Your velocity should be more around 1100+ which is all well and good. I will crony my rig someday and post.

You have a point. I did not see how they defined barrel length, but it may be measured from breechface to crown.

If you measured the same way on your SP101, you could add the length of the cylinder which is about 1.650, giving you a "barrel length" of 3.9".

Let me know whether you are getting 1500 fps from 357MAG 125 grain factory loads. I used to own a 2" SP101, but I did not have a chronograph back then.

[sixoclockhold]

I ended up just grabbing a lb. of unique to get by till I can find some Universal. A mans gotta play. Calls for small primer which I have tons of.

[rsrocket1]

Unique will do everything Universal does except it won't fully combust with light loads. With light loads, Universal will still be smokey but won't leave unburned flakes around, that's about the only difference other than Universal also leaves a lighter wallet behind

Really light 38 special loads don't need to be roll crimped. My 3.0g Red Dot 158g loads don't need it so I don't crimp. It helps the cases last longer. Heavier 38 special loads, especially getting into the +p region will need a roll crimp. Otherwise the bullets could walk out of the case and lock up the cylinder.

Have fun with your new toy.