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Problem with my AR

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  • #46
    Diesel12
    Member
    • Jan 2014
    • 108

    It appears you are not bumping the shoulder back far enough to chamber the round correctly for your reloads. I usually install the sizing die until it touches the shell holder on the press and then go another 1/4 of a turn more. This ensures the shoulder reset. Then trim to correct length after. The Wilson gauge will give you an indication if the brass will fit your chamber. If it sticks out on the bottom, then the shoulder needs to be bumped back, if it sticks out on the rim, then it needs trimming.

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    • #47
      Jon Road King
      Senior Member
      • Oct 2012
      • 926

      Just because I had a similar issue (since it looks like you might have solved the problem, but just in case)...

      ... how are you swaging? CH4D perhaps?
      "Never interrupt your enemy while he is making a mistake."

      --- Napoleon

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      • #48
        gsc3zny
        Senior Member
        • Jul 2011
        • 573

        Originally posted by Jon Road King
        Just because I had a similar issue (since it looks like you might have solved the problem, but just in case)...

        ... how are you swaging? CH4D perhaps?
        I swage on my lee single stage, using an rcbs die and swager

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        • #49
          tooblekain
          Junior Member
          • Jan 2015
          • 27

          I had the exact same problem when I was at my local range with my girlfriend and my AR-15. My hands were sore from the constant pulling of the charging handle to get them out. I had to use our AR-15 tool to act as a ginormous handle and have the butt of the rifle pressing against me to get the bullet to eject.

          I changed the overall length down to 2.200 and all my rounds fired flawlessly. Like you, I followed what was in the Hornady reloading manual and was just getting frustrated.

          Im new to reloading as well and starting to discover that the manuals are a good place to start and as I started reading what was in my Lee Reloading dies as well as other reloading manuals that they are all different in some way or another. Luckily we have technology on our side to get advice on here as well as find load recipes that people have made that were successful for them to try out.

          Now if I buy factory loads and it fires well, I make sure to save one and take it apart to find out everything like overall length, case length, headspace, crimp, powder charge weight, etc. That way I have a reference/guide. I add it to my spreadsheet with notes.

          Im still trying to figure out loads for my 9mm handguns. So far the only thing I nailed down was a powder charge not to go below. Accuracy is utter **** for me...so I have to figure out everything else. And of course it could just be me. I hope to get a sled to shoot from to take away the human element.

          IMO, I think 9mm reloading is a lot harder than .223.

          Here is my reloading recipe for .223 so far that my girlfriend and I like

          case headstamp: mixed (but most have been CBC and Lake City...occasional Wolf Gold, Winchester, etc)
          case length: 1.750"
          overall length: 2.200"
          powder and charge: H335 at 23.5 grains
          primers: CCI
          projectile: 55 grain FMJ boattail
          light crimp
          (no chronograph to measure velocity unfortunately)
          all cases looked fine after firing. No signs of overcharging that I could see.

          We might try a smaller charge at 20.5 to be a little more economical with our powder...but if it causes issues, back to 23.5. Im not sure I want to mess with success.
          Last edited by tooblekain; 05-20-2015, 4:39 PM.
          Happiness is not around the corner. It's IN it.

          Fill your Bag of Talent before you empty your Bag of Luck

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